Good Purchase? Suburban '11-14, 85k-115k
First time poster and considering the purchase of a Suburban.
We are actively looking for a used SUV to add to our lineup and are leaning towards a Suburban. Due to our price limits, we are considering one in the '11-14 year range with 85k-115k miles. The majority in our area are 2wd. If a very rare 4wd pops up, it is quickly sold for about $2k-4k more. For the immediate, I have found a '12 with 98k miles and a Z71 4wd package. So far looks good with exception to a cracked dash which sounds typical? Would there be any concerns with this year, package and this many miles? In general, are there any trim packages, years, mileage, issues, etc you can warn us about? I am able to do mechanical repairs but would be reluctant to work on this vehicle since my old Jeep CJ7 takes up most of my time in the garage. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Neuner
(Post 425682)
First time poster and considering the purchase of a Suburban.
We are actively looking for a used SUV to add to our lineup and are leaning towards a Suburban. Due to our price limits, we are considering one in the '11-14 year range with 85k-115k miles. The majority in our area are 2wd. If a very rare 4wd pops up, it is quickly sold for about $2k-4k more. For the immediate, I have found a '12 with 98k miles and a Z71 4wd package. So far looks good with exception to a cracked dash which sounds typical? Would there be any concerns with this year, package and this many miles? I am able to do mechanical repairs but would be reluctant to work on this vehicle since my old Jeep CJ7 takes up most of my time in the garage. Thanks! BTW, used to have a Jeep CJ-5. The thing was bulletproof with a Prestolite distributor that water didn't bother. Vacuum advance can would blow out once a year but cheap and easy to replace. The heater was a bit weak but since they were all soft-tops it didn't matter. You wore a coat, gloves &boots. No A/C, autos, or hardtops back then :-) |
Yes I've checked the complaints but just like any other car review, they consist no more than a bunch whiners with minor cosmetic complaints. What I was looking for was more a mechanical review. Haven't really seen any issues browsing the internet or forums.
CJ is fun but a lot of work. I swapped the engine for a 4.0 fuel injection, tranny, rear axle and steering box. Rebuilt the tranny, steering column, brakes and bearings. Corrected the suspension and steering. Painted the exterior and bedlined the interior. It just recently started a grinding sound that lends itself to a bad bearing. Now I have to find it and who knows what can of worms it opens. |
Originally Posted by Neuner
(Post 425765)
Yes I've checked the complaints but just like any other car review, they consist no more than a bunch whiners with minor cosmetic complaints. What I was looking for was more a mechanical review. Haven't really seen any issues browsing the internet or forums.
CJ is fun but a lot of work. I swapped the engine for a 4.0 fuel injection, tranny, rear axle and steering box. Rebuilt the tranny, steering column, brakes and bearings. Corrected the suspension and steering. Painted the exterior and bedlined the interior. It just recently started a grinding sound that lends itself to a bad bearing. Now I have to find it and who knows what can of worms it opens. |
Heard that Suburban's Transfer Cases have a pump in them that rubs and creates a pin hole leak that continues to get worse. Major cost to repair. What years does this affect?
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dont think thats just limited to burbs. think it was pretty much all GMs with that transfercase
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What years?
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from 98-07 from the blazer to the 3500 pickups (NP136, NP149, NP236, NP246, NP261, NP261HD, NP263, NP263HD, NP261XHD, NP263XHD). pretty much the pump rubs a pin hole in the case only real way to fix is to get a kit ($99). you can jb weld but thats a band aid
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Originally Posted by Irish_alley
(Post 425989)
from 98-07 from the blazer to the 3500 pickups (NP136, NP149, NP236, NP246, NP261, NP261HD, NP263, NP263HD, NP261XHD, NP263XHD). pretty much the pump rubs a pin hole in the case only real way to fix is to get a kit ($99). you can jb weld but thats a band aid
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