EinST

I've already posted why it's best to replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder together in thread https://chevroletforum.com/forum/mal...81/#post193344. What, "her father (a mechanic)" washed his hands off or something? See if he'll finish the job? Otherwise, call an automotive locksmith.

buddy0310

she does that regularly (at least 4-6 times a week) the key doesn't have a chip in i. some one told us it could be caused by the housing not being replaced with it. could this be the cause and also is the trick with cutting the yellow wire a viabale soultion. The theft light being on is not a issue for us however not being able to get my daughter to school when she misses the bus is. Thanks

kevinkpk

Did the old key have a pellet in it? If so, you need to find out what resistance it is, and solder that same value resistor across the two wire connector.

buddy0310

no there wasnt a chip in the old one either. Father is a hack and washed his hads of it when he couldnt slove the problem by changing parts. now we are stuck trying to fix his issues

barry4219

I bypassed mine with a part from new rockies . They know all about these problems
check out there web site http://newrockies.com?ap_id=scp8333

tt1436

2004 Impala LS 3.8L 94,000 mi

I've had the random "won't start" nightmare going on for months. I read the wonderful postings on this issue.
I finally got the courage to tear into the dash and remove the ignition switch. I found the 5 contacts, cleaned them and coated them with dielectric grease. Put it all back together and the car STARTS!!!! On my 6th day now, car starts everytime and my "security" light is staying off.

Thank you all! for all the postings. I would never have tackled this problem without them. It was just getting too embarassing to be in the
bank drive-thru lane, or the gas station and the car just wouldn't start.

I spent a half day and $3 bucks on dielectric grease (I could probably do it in an hour, now that I know where all the screws are in the dash)!!!

THANKS AGAIN!!!

loopy127

Here is one solution to the passlock headache that I have not seen on this thread yet; There are a lot of companies that produce tuning software for a car's computer (if you take the time to download it to your computer and learn to use it). Once downloaded, your laptop can interface with your car's computer through an ALDL cable and you can change whatever you want with the car's computer (this includes disabling vats, passlock 1 and 2, passkey, or whatever else GM decides to do next). The price range for the software ranges from $60 for the cheaper stuff up to $800 for the higher end programs (you can even buy a handheld device from your local auto parts store that will do it for you, but again, it's going to cost some money). Examples of tuning software might include tunercat, jet II, EFI live, Hp tuners, etc. etc. Does this route make sense if all you want to do is get rid of the Passlock problem? Probably not, the tuning software opens up the door for performance tuning and a host of other computer modifications. But I did find someone who had the software and asked them to disable passlock on my truck. Cost? $0. No taking apart the key cylinder, no resistors, no newrockies gadgets etc. I'm sure that any performance shop can access your car's computer and disable the security nightmare for a reasonable fee. Hope that helps those who might consider that route.

Robert W Cowen

Hi i got a problem i have a 2000 blazer that i just put a motor and trans in and now the truck is having security issuse and i got some people telling it is my body module!! but the problem i got is when i connect the battery it is on and try to do cycle times and the light doesnt flash and i got to it is the ignetion switch that is telling the fuel injectors to shut off because of the security!! the qeustion is can anybody help me out my truck has been sitting for a year and a half and i had to have to get help to put the motor and trans in!!! it will start and run for about 7 seconds until the fuel runs out of the injectors run out of fuel and then it dies!!! i just want to know if i cut the yellow wirer on the switch in the blazer would it let my fuel injectors run and let the truck to run and then i could drive it!!! PLZ PLZ help me this is my only ride and i am sick and this is the only thing that i can go to the hospital in !!!

Robert W Cowen

Hi i got a problem i have a 2000 blazer that i just put a motor and trans in and now the truck is having security issuse and i got some people telling it is my body module!! but the problem i got is when i connect the battery it is on and try to do cycle times and the light doesnt flash and i got to it is the ignetion switch that is telling the fuel injectors to shut off because of the security!! the qeustion is can anybody help me out my truck has been sitting for a year and a half and i had to have to get help to put the motor and trans in!!! it will start and run for about 7 seconds until the fuel runs out of the injectors run out of fuel and then it dies!!! i just want to know if i cut the yellow wirer on the switch in the blazer would it let my fuel injectors run and let the truck to run and then i could drive it!!! PLZ PLZ help me this is my only ride and i am sick and this is the only thing that i can go to the hospital in !!!

loopy127

I don't know if it has been mentioned in this thread before, but your blazer has the passlock II system, which means (if I remember right) that your key cylinder actually produces an "r code" as you turn it. Your body control module then interprets the code and tells the computer that's its okay to fire the injectors. Don't quote me on this because it's been a little while since I've studied the process, but to my understanding, that's how passlock II works. Solution? Find someone who can tune a pcm (i.e. look for a performance shop or even your local mechanic who can access your obdII computer). They may charge you $20 or so, but it takes about ten seconds to disable the security system. Your car will no longer protect itself against bad guys, but at least it will stop protecting itself against you.

By the way, I have read on several other forums that cutting the yellow wire is a quick and free way to bypass the system and I think it's worth a shot. But it you're supposed to cut it while your car is running, then shut it off, and you're done.

Here's an alternative.
There are three very small wires running from your key cylinder to your body control module. One white, one yellow (r code wire) and one black. Cut the black and yellow wires and strip the ends. With a good digital volt/ohm meter, measure the resistance between the yellow and black wire on the side that goes through the key cylinder. Go to radio shack and buy a 1/4 watt resistor that most closely matches the resistance you measured. Wire the resistor between the black and yellow wires that go to the body control module. If the resistor you wired in is within +/- 10% of the the resistance that your measured through the key cylinder, the blazer should fire up and run. Best of luck to you.