fuel composition sensor
January 17th, 2005, 6:19 PM
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fuel composition sensor
I have a 2000 S-10 with a bad fuel composition sensor. GM wants 525.oo for this. Can anyone tell me where I can get it cheaper?</P>
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February 26th, 2007, 3:03 AM
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RE: fuel composition sensor
I have a 2001 Chevy S10 and this sensor is located on the right front passenger side on the frame rail, you'll have to take off the R/FT Tire and remove the fender wheel housing to gettoit, and you will need a Fuel Line Disonnect Tool Set to remove the2 fuellines from the sensorthat you can find at any auto parts store.First Relieve the fuel pressure( Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure)Remove the attachment nut and and another bolt inserted into the frame rail visable onlyfrom the inside of rail near sensor, then disconnect electrical connector.Buying the part is easy but replaceing it is a headache/ i checked the local salvage yards because i can't afford the 600+ The chevy delership wanted just for the part + labor cost, Its crazy. Hope this helps someone
December 30th, 2008, 12:27 PM
#4
RE: fuel composition sensor
I realize this is very late in reply to the first guy...but this will help anyone who has this problem in the future!
I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma. My engine light turned on at about 60,000 miles. I recently had to get a diagnostic on it because I have to get it smogged. The trouble codes were (off the top of my head) P0178 AND P0179....These have to do with the fuel composition sensor. It was reading high alcohol levels and low levels at the same time. My rear 02 sensor was also bad and I had that replaced. This turned off the LOW LEVEL reading and then the P0179 remained. You can't clear the code, it WILL come back on after 20 seconds or so. THIS SENSOR MUST BE REPLACED TO PASS EMISSIONS! GM wants roughly 650 for the part (not including labor). From what I hear, only GM shops have the equipment necessary to TEST the sensor. It is such a specialized sensor, not many shops have this pricey equipment. You can geta fuel comp sensorfor about 450$ on GM parts direct. That to me, still, is way too much for such a small part. I went to Specialized Parts Planet (a local salvage yard in Fresno, Ca). I was able to find a 2000 S-10 that had the sensor on it. I had the guy snip off the fuel lines and was able to get it for 50$. He told me that if the sensor was bad, that they could call up their warehouse in Sacramento to get me another one. If you are having trouble finding a used sensor, I would give these guys a call (559) 266-0123. Heck, you could have one shipped to you for ALOT less than you could get a new one!
As somone previously stated, the sensor is located on the inside of the passenger side frame rail (pretty much right below the firewall). You do NOT have to remove the inner fender well. You will obviously need to jack up the right side to get the right front wheel off. Once you remove the wheel, you will be able to see the sensor which is located behind a small rubber flap. The sensor is mounted to a plastic bracket with (4) bolts (i think they are 3/8"). The bracket is mounted to the frame rail with (2) 1/2" bolts...one is on the top side of the rail, the other is on the back side. You will also needa 3/8" Fuel Line Disconnect tool. You can get a set of cheap plastic ones for about 8$ or a nice annodized aluminum one for 13$ at any autoparts store. Before you disconnect the fuel lines, DEPRESSURIZE YOUR FUEL LINES! That is unless you like gas squirting out at you. Simply remove the fuse for the fuel pump. Once the fuse is removed, turn the engine over. If it starts, let it run until the engine dies. Mine did not even start, so I did not have to worry about that. Once the fuel lines are dry, remove the lines from the sensor. Some gas will still be in the line. I would recommend using a rag to soak up the excess while removing them. (MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE FUEL LINES BEFORE UNPLUGGING THE SENSOR!!!) You do not want the leaky gas to ruin the plug! Once the lines are disconnected, unplug the sensor and remove the sensor and the mounting bracket. Once the sensor is out of its home, then you can remove the (4) bolts from the sensor to the bracket. Swap the sensor for the new one and simply do everything in reverse order. This job only takes about 30 minutes to do. Im sure if you remove the inner fender, it is much more difficult and you will be making alot more work for yourself!
I was told from my mechanic that once the sensor was replaced, I would have to take it back in for them to manually clear the code. When I started my truck up after the install, the engine light was still on. I took it around the neighborhood for about 5 minutes and to my surprise, the engine light was off. I'm taking her down to get smogged this afternoon.
To all of you out there that are running across this problem, I'm sorry!!! This stupid sensor tells the computer what kind of gasyou are burning (unleaded or E-85 flex fuel). The stupid thing is, there is not a single E-85 filling station within 400 miles of me and there are only 4 in all of California. So here we are, FORCED to replace something that is not even needed on our trucks. Please dont pay the dealers the 650$ to replace this part. Do what I did. Call around if you have to and find a used one. It will be well worth it.
I hope this helps someone who comes across this problem in the future. From what I have heard, it is a common occurance. Which is why GM only put these stupid things on 2000-2002 trucks. GOOD LUCK!!!!
I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma. My engine light turned on at about 60,000 miles. I recently had to get a diagnostic on it because I have to get it smogged. The trouble codes were (off the top of my head) P0178 AND P0179....These have to do with the fuel composition sensor. It was reading high alcohol levels and low levels at the same time. My rear 02 sensor was also bad and I had that replaced. This turned off the LOW LEVEL reading and then the P0179 remained. You can't clear the code, it WILL come back on after 20 seconds or so. THIS SENSOR MUST BE REPLACED TO PASS EMISSIONS! GM wants roughly 650 for the part (not including labor). From what I hear, only GM shops have the equipment necessary to TEST the sensor. It is such a specialized sensor, not many shops have this pricey equipment. You can geta fuel comp sensorfor about 450$ on GM parts direct. That to me, still, is way too much for such a small part. I went to Specialized Parts Planet (a local salvage yard in Fresno, Ca). I was able to find a 2000 S-10 that had the sensor on it. I had the guy snip off the fuel lines and was able to get it for 50$. He told me that if the sensor was bad, that they could call up their warehouse in Sacramento to get me another one. If you are having trouble finding a used sensor, I would give these guys a call (559) 266-0123. Heck, you could have one shipped to you for ALOT less than you could get a new one!
As somone previously stated, the sensor is located on the inside of the passenger side frame rail (pretty much right below the firewall). You do NOT have to remove the inner fender well. You will obviously need to jack up the right side to get the right front wheel off. Once you remove the wheel, you will be able to see the sensor which is located behind a small rubber flap. The sensor is mounted to a plastic bracket with (4) bolts (i think they are 3/8"). The bracket is mounted to the frame rail with (2) 1/2" bolts...one is on the top side of the rail, the other is on the back side. You will also needa 3/8" Fuel Line Disconnect tool. You can get a set of cheap plastic ones for about 8$ or a nice annodized aluminum one for 13$ at any autoparts store. Before you disconnect the fuel lines, DEPRESSURIZE YOUR FUEL LINES! That is unless you like gas squirting out at you. Simply remove the fuse for the fuel pump. Once the fuse is removed, turn the engine over. If it starts, let it run until the engine dies. Mine did not even start, so I did not have to worry about that. Once the fuel lines are dry, remove the lines from the sensor. Some gas will still be in the line. I would recommend using a rag to soak up the excess while removing them. (MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE FUEL LINES BEFORE UNPLUGGING THE SENSOR!!!) You do not want the leaky gas to ruin the plug! Once the lines are disconnected, unplug the sensor and remove the sensor and the mounting bracket. Once the sensor is out of its home, then you can remove the (4) bolts from the sensor to the bracket. Swap the sensor for the new one and simply do everything in reverse order. This job only takes about 30 minutes to do. Im sure if you remove the inner fender, it is much more difficult and you will be making alot more work for yourself!
I was told from my mechanic that once the sensor was replaced, I would have to take it back in for them to manually clear the code. When I started my truck up after the install, the engine light was still on. I took it around the neighborhood for about 5 minutes and to my surprise, the engine light was off. I'm taking her down to get smogged this afternoon.
To all of you out there that are running across this problem, I'm sorry!!! This stupid sensor tells the computer what kind of gasyou are burning (unleaded or E-85 flex fuel). The stupid thing is, there is not a single E-85 filling station within 400 miles of me and there are only 4 in all of California. So here we are, FORCED to replace something that is not even needed on our trucks. Please dont pay the dealers the 650$ to replace this part. Do what I did. Call around if you have to and find a used one. It will be well worth it.
I hope this helps someone who comes across this problem in the future. From what I have heard, it is a common occurance. Which is why GM only put these stupid things on 2000-2002 trucks. GOOD LUCK!!!!
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Hwhitt398 (April 5th, 2023)
January 7th, 2009, 11:07 AM
#5
RE: fuel composition sensor
If you install the new sensor, you will need to drive your truck around to complete a "drive cycle" or the computer will not be able to recognize the new part and you will not be able to get a smog. I drove mine for about 100 miles on 4 seperate trips. I took it back down to get checked and they were able to perform the smog check. No telling on the minimum amount of miles you will need to drive it. I will tell you though that I had about 10 miles on it when i drove down to get smogged the first time. So its somewhere between 10 and 100.
February 13th, 2009, 1:00 PM
#6
Fuel composition sensor 2000 S-10, 2.2 Liter
A couple weeks ago, I left about $1100 at a smog shop around the corner from my struggling business. The owner gave me what-for and told me I could have saved the (exorbitant) cost of the flex fuel composition sensor had the fuel filter not been plugged. Apparently, there is a bypass in the filter and the dirty fuel did its thing, but with 146,000 miles on the very healthy 4-banger, it may have been time, anyhow. I had changed the quite pricey filter about 30K miles back, but...
With labor, replacement of the O2 sensor, the flex-fuel filter, and the composition sensor, it was a costly smog certificate. Can't wait for California to shaft us even more for future smog certs. Upside, is that I don't have that "check engine" light staring at me. And the mileage might be back to what it had been. Easy 25 mpg in town and 30-plus on the road.
Oh, yeah, I saved a little money because I already had read the code with my low-end OBD-II reader. The smog shop has a fancy one that tells everything but predicting how badly the disastrous Porkulous Bill is going to screw us tackspayers.
Moral of the story: we bite the bullet and replace the fuel filter and O2 sensor before they fail. Just too bad parts cost so much more for flex-fuel vehicles. The dealers and parts houses have us by the short hair.
With labor, replacement of the O2 sensor, the flex-fuel filter, and the composition sensor, it was a costly smog certificate. Can't wait for California to shaft us even more for future smog certs. Upside, is that I don't have that "check engine" light staring at me. And the mileage might be back to what it had been. Easy 25 mpg in town and 30-plus on the road.
Oh, yeah, I saved a little money because I already had read the code with my low-end OBD-II reader. The smog shop has a fancy one that tells everything but predicting how badly the disastrous Porkulous Bill is going to screw us tackspayers.
Moral of the story: we bite the bullet and replace the fuel filter and O2 sensor before they fail. Just too bad parts cost so much more for flex-fuel vehicles. The dealers and parts houses have us by the short hair.
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Hwhitt398 (April 5th, 2023)
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July 20th, 2010, 11:43 PM
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July 20th, 2010, 11:52 PM
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thank you so much for sharing such a detailed account of how to change this sensor, i followed ur direction to the tee and saved the cost of sending it to a mechanic. With your help i found this part at the junkyard for $20.00 the sensor worked for me ,my service lit is off and im service lite free , i did replace the fuel filter ,and the two oxigen sensors the whole thing cost about $170.00 or so far cry from the cost of the new part and a mechanics fee, i fell i've beat the system....thank u again...Mitch check engine lite free and happy again...... this is in response to 02snoma
Last edited by mitchs10; July 21st, 2010 at 12:05 AM.