coolcw1987

I want to start off by saying I have assembled a 350 from a short block before, but never have I dug this far into an engine.

I got this, kind of as a side project, so I wont constantly be updating this thread. I got this engine used, in the condition its currently in, and other than the teardown I've not done anything to it.

When I bought it I was told he had this built and put in a blazer, and he took it out because he had another engine built. He was going to put this in another car but its been sitting for a few months. He also gave me some of the build info. Copied from a text message.

Flat top pistons, arp rod bolts, cast crankshaft, 480 / 480 lift cam, 305 heads with 1.94 intake and 1.5 ex valves, bored 30 over. As I was driving home he told me that his engine builder finally got back to him and told him he should not have sold it for less than $2000. I paid less than 10% of that, and thats where my worries started. Its not complete, missing intake mani, dist, carb, and a few other odds and ends. I dont have a harmoic ballancer puller, which is why ive stopped where I have, but I plan on renting one tomorrow to continue progress over the weekend. What do you guys think so far? As of right now my plan is to check the bearings, hone the cylinders, rering the pistons, and just kind of put it back together. Should I add/change anything? Should I change or check anything before I go much further? Let me know what you think and thanks for reading.

I did manage to use pb blaster and over about 2 days got it freed up and spinning. Hopefully thats good news.

Casey

kevinkpk

With headers 200 bucks is about right. I'd suggest you take the heads to a machine shop, have them checked for true, if not milled. This is a 2 bolt main. I'd with that pull (at minimum) a rod cap, and main cap for inspection

coolcw1987

It looks like a 4 bolt main to me

lol, I did manage to get all the pistons/rods out today before work, and now that the girls are in bed ill work on getting the crank out. Im really not sure what Im looking at with these bearings. If I post the pictures can you guys tell me if they are good or not?

My plan for now is to hone the cylinders and get all new rings. Hopefully thats all it takes to get it up and going again. that and a few misc parts that Im missing.

kevinkpk

Perhaps, but not from this "guy"

coolcw1987

So for some reason chrome crashed when I was writing this post, here goes try number 2.

I found out my crank is just a normal 350 crank, cast number 3932442

On to the pictures of the bearings. Mostly they seemed ok except a couple. They all looked frosted. only 1 or 2 could I feel any sort of scratches in. What do you think?






And the rod bearings










Also good news. I can still see the cross hatch in all the cylinders, except maybe the top 1/4 inch or less.

Well thats where I am for now. What's next?

coolcw1987

Heres 4 of the cylinders.




Some have a bit of rust a bit lower, but none go down even 1 inch. My plan for now is a little bit more clean up, a hone and new rings, and new main and rod bearings. Im pretty sure all of my bearings are labeled STD. So is it safe to get some normal bearings and just assemble it? Do I have to do any sort of prep? aside from that, and a few gaskets Im back to a short block. right? Next I need to look into the cam/heads before I go much further. I cant find any meaningful numbers on the cam to identofy it. But the heads are stamped 376450. seem to be fairly standard 305 heads, but I was told they had 1.94 intake valves and 1.5 exhaust valves. Any way I can visually tell if they are upgraded somehow? can I "see" a valve job?

coolcw1987

I was able to find and decode some info on my cam shaft. Im not really sure what it all means but it had E1029P stamped on one end. Online I was able to find

E-1029-P; 280/214, 112/107, .443. Now to figure out exactly what those numbers mean....

More info dump....
Part Type: Camshaft
Application: Chevrolet SB V8 262, 265, 267, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400 1955-2002
Ignition Firing Order: OE (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2)
Cam Style: Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Basic RPM Range: 2000-4800
Manufacturers Description: Mild idle, improved power and torque. Works with stock converter.
Intake Duration @ .050": 214
Exhaust Duration @ .050": 214
Advertised Intake Duration (@ .006"): 287
Advertised Exhaust Duration (@ .006"): 287
Intake Valve Lift with OE Rocker Ratio (1.50): .443"
Exhaust Valve Lift OE Rocker Ratio (1.50): .443"
Intake Lobe Lift: .295"
Exhaust Lobe Lift: .295"
Intake Valve Lift with 1.55 Rocker Ratio: .458"
Intake Valve Lift with 1.60 Rocker Ratio: .472"
Intake Valve Lift with 1.65 Rocker Ratio: .487"
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.55 Rocker Ratio: .458"
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.60 Rocker Ratio: .472”
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.65 Rocker Ratio: .487”
Lobe Separation Angle: 112 Degrees
Intake Centerline: 108 Degrees
Lifters Included: No
Small Base Circle: No
Cam Gear Attachment: Single-Bolt
Valve Adjustment: Zero Lash Plus ½ Turn
Manufacturer: Elgin Industries
Manufacturer's Part Number: E1029
Weight: 10.0 lbs.
Warranty: Race Application, No warranty expressed or implied
Quantity: Sold as Each

Is it a good cam with the other parts?