454Lazy

Hi, I have a 1995 Chevy P30 motorhome that has a leaking AC compressor.

The AC was not blowing any cold at all. I took it to a mechanic who charged it with R134A freon and dye. The freon dissipated within weeks. The mech folded up and I can't go to them anymore. I could bring it elsewhere but I'm considering doing some of the work myself.

I've never done AC work but I have pulled engines and transmissions, as well as done a lot of stuff like replacing water pumps, alternators, etc.

I did inspect the AC components to look for leaking freon from the dye. The AC compressor definitely has a spray pattern of dye along the under side of the body near the pulley.

What are the chances that I could put new seals and reuse the compressor rather than replace? The AC runs fine when charged.

What components would you replace in addition to the compressor if you were to do the job. I tried to look at everything as closely as possible - no detected leaks at the condensor, dehydrator or evaporator that I could see. The hoses looked good with the exception of one line that goes into the radiator - I think it's a heater hose. I don't know if that's spray from possibly the belt movement or something.

If I take it to someone else, it would be a minimum of $1200-1600.

If I do it myself, I can get HF tools and the replacement compressor and do it for about $350. A huge win if it works but even if it doesn't - maybe the work will still be useful toward fixing it?

Here's what I was thinking - let me know if this works:
* Get new or reman compressor
* Get Harbor Freight gauges
* Get Harbor Freight vac pump for AC
* Discharge AC (it's all leaked out anyway so no loss or further harm to environment (?)
* Install new compressor
* Vacuum test
* Fill with R134A

What are your thoughts? Fool's errand or worthy effort? What would you do differently?

BTW - I did my Dodge truck "right" a few years ago at a mechanic - they installed a faulty compressor and I was out $800 and they folded up. So I'm not inclined to get burned again.

tech2

doable
price around the cost of recharging...then you dont need a vac pump or gauges. If the shop charges are comparable to buying the equipment...I would buy the equipment.

-follow the instructions with the new compressor for oil balancing.
-buy new seals if not included with the compressor.
-buy pag oil of the correct weight
-vacuum the system for a minimum of 30 minutes....longer if you are not replacing the accumulator. It is recommended to replace the accumulator if the system has been open and the dessicant is moisture ladden. I don't cause i'm cheap...I increase the vac time and hopefully the moisture will boil out and be recovered by the vac pump. Moisture or air in the system is bad/damaging and reduces performance.
-if there is any indication of pump damage/not just a leak...metal specs in the oil....replace the accumulator and system flush or pump inlet screen(available at gm dealerships)
-if home filling...weigh your cans before and after to get a somewhat accurate charge into the system.

454Lazy

Excellent - I'm starting to think this could happen!

Any way to confirm what compressor type I have? I think there are Sanden and a couple other styles. This one seems to only have two bolts that hold it in - opposed 180 degrees apart.

Thanks.

tech2

identifying it can be hard sometimes...take it with you to the store to match it up and for your core return....make sure the suction and discharge ports are identical.

454Lazy

One other thing I've been wondering - is it normal to service/replace the service ports? I understand they are valves similar to a tire valve. I do see dye on both service ports - which leads me to think there could possibly be a leak there. I know the side where freon is injected should show dye but the other side too? How do I identify what size to get?

Thanks again.

tech2

when the system is recovered...if will recover oil from both service ports...so the dye you see is from recovering the refridgerant and the dye and oil comes with it. Its rare to need to replace a service port...just make sure the caps are in place...you don't want dirt getting into the valve.

454Lazy

Thanks for all the info. One other question. Is there a simple way to tell if the compressor issue is a shaft seal that can be replaced or that the whole compressor needs to go?

Edit - my compressor is 1131901 if that helps. Looks like the seal kit would be MT2038?

tech2

to test for a leaking compressor and no uv dye can be seen; you would need to charge the system and check it with a electronic leak detector ($500tool). If the leak is really bad you may be able to spray a soap solution and see bubbles forming.

Changing a clutch is doable but a shaft seal may require special tools. IMO, for the age of the compressor, I would not bother with it...replace the entire compressor.

454Lazy

Well I made the change! I did the work on Saturday this week (now Tuesday). The pressure seems to be holding but not confident yet that this is a done deal. I will probably test it again in a couple weeks with the manifold gauges.

I did heed your advice. This was reinforced when absolutely no oil came out of the original compressor. I figured the leak must have leaked out the system oil as well, so it was running dry for thousands of miles. That can't be good.

Wish me luck.

Thanks again for all the great info.