Locorotc

Good afternoon ladies and gentleman,
I have recently gotten my wife's truck, 1993 Chevrolet C1500 5.7L extended cab auto transmission, up and running thanks to a few people here on Chevrolet Enthusiasts. Now that I have the truck up and running I have a few electrical problems:
1) The IAC isn't pushing the truck into high idle like its suppose to, how do I test it to see if its bad? My father broke the electrical connector and zip tied it so I'm pretty sure that's why its throwing it out of whack.
2) The VSS is leaking on the nose of the transmission, should I replace the whole sensor or just the seal? I know its leaking because there's tranny fluid coming out from around the sensor. Also when I pull it out do I need to drain the tranny?
3) The truck has a constant on electrical draw somewhere, What would be the best route for finding this?

Again I appreciate all the help from everyone that has helped me on this truck and appreciate all the experience. I look forward to all the help. Thank you in advance.

Locorotc

So yesterday I drove the truck to work and back and the engine light came on, I checked the codes and the following codes came out, 28, 32, 35, and 43. The truck was driving fine, however it did have a rattle coming from the engine like the timing was off, It takes a board on the accelerator pedal to get the engine to stay running when the engine is cold. I appreciate any help that can be offered. Thanks in advance.

kevinkpk

The iac solenoid can be tested by applying battery voltage to it, that will tell if the solenoid is working, rather it is or not at cold idle, you will have to check for voltage at the connector.
I'd replace the sensor as I have seen them leak internally, and out the seams, howeverr they are not exspensive, your call if it is the oring.
You'll have to just isolate the current draw with a volt meter. Voltmeter on battery, pull fuse individually till you find the end device that's causing the current draw.

Locorotc

What should the voltage be at the connector?
I think I am going to just replace the entire sensor.
How would I narrow down the current draw?
I appreciate the help.
I once again drove the truck back and forth to work and its still rattling, its only under load like the timing is off, I did have the distributor pop up a little when the timing was being set so the shaft from the oil pump, would it be a good idea to reset the timing and the oil pump? Im kinda concerned with the rattling.

kevinkpk

You'll have to just isolate the current draw with a volt meter. Voltmeter on battery, pull fuse individually till you find the end device that's causing the current draw.

It's a solenoid, so battery voltage that will check if the solenoid is working, but not if the issue is elsewhere. I'd test the solenoid, then piggy back voltmeter to the connector, start it up, go from there.