S-10 & Blazer 1982-2005
The S-10 and Blazer was arguably the most versatile and accessorizable mid-size truck and SUV on the market.
Platform: S/T-series & GMT 330

1994 Chevy s10 zr2 4.3, idles rough when warm

Old June 10th, 2019, 1:57 PM
  #1  
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
 
charrisps6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 26
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default 1994 Chevy s10 zr2 4.3, idles rough when warm

Truck cranks fine, accelerates great, cruises great, runs great when cold but as soon as it warms up it the idle stutters and falls and eventually it will cut off. Stopping at stop lights or putting it in park. No engine light, I’ve changed, plugs, wires, cap, distributer(2 years), coolant temp, tps, IAC, thermostat. Nothing is helping
Old June 14th, 2019, 2:20 PM
  #2  
I'm here for the party
 
Irish_alley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,416
Received 71 Likes on 66 Posts
Default

are you saying the distributor is 2 year old?
did you recently replace these sensors?
how old is the gas?
im used to working on TBI motors and im not sure what you have but since its when it warms up it means (to me) its a bad sensor. When the engine is first started (cold), and engine speed is above 400 rpm, the system goes into OPEN LOOP operation. In OPEN LOOP, the ECM ignores the signal from the Oxygen sensor, and calculates the air/fuel ratio based on inputs from the coolant temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensors. After water temp reaches 105° or what ever temp the ecm is looking for the O2 sensor to see if its warm enough to read properly and some time limit has been reached then the ecm will go into closed loop as long as all "requirements" are reached.

that being said i would assume the CTS and O2 sensor is working properly cause you come out of "open loop". so now your ecm is looking from signals from your other sensors (IAC, MAP and TPS).
The TPS can cause Bucking and Jerking/Hesitation while Accelerating, Idle Surging, Sudden Stalling of the Engine and Sudden Surge in Speed While Driving on the Highway. and that would be the first place i start looking, click HERE to find out how to test the sensors
Old June 14th, 2019, 10:45 PM
  #3  
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
 
charrisps6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 26
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Yes I am saying that my distributor is two years old, I recently replaced the sensors with AC Delco, the gas is a few days old, I think a narrowed it it down to the air control valve because all of a sudden it got stuck open and now the check engine light is on and there is air sucking into the engine, so you think the IAC was not working probably even before it was stuck, to cause the stalling when warm?
Old June 15th, 2019, 3:16 PM
  #4  
I'm here for the party
 
Irish_alley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,416
Received 71 Likes on 66 Posts
Default

Troubleshooting sensors and how to test youll find the specs on testing the IAC there. it could cause a stalling issue
Old June 15th, 2019, 3:50 PM
  #5  
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
 
charrisps6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 26
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Irish_alley
Troubleshooting sensors and how to test you'll find the specs on testing the IAC there. it could cause a stalling issue
Thank you so much for the information, my idle air control valve will be coming in tomorrow, I'll keep you posted.
Old June 16th, 2019, 5:00 PM
  #6  
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
 
charrisps6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 26
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Irish_alley
Troubleshooting sensors and how to test youll find the specs on testing the IAC there. it could cause a stalling issue
Installed the IAC and tested to see if the ohms were correct and they were, found out that in the process my TPS went bad so I replaced it and also test it and all my other sensors following the guide that you included. Also went to the Parts place and bought a distributor cap and rotor just to complete my tune up with the wires and plugs. It still has a surge in the idle, it will surge around every 8-10 seconds and eventually will choke itself out. drives great until i stop or let it idle.
Old June 17th, 2019, 2:18 AM
  #7  
I'm here for the party
 
Irish_alley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,416
Received 71 Likes on 66 Posts
Default

does the check engine light first come on when the key is turned "on"?
Old June 17th, 2019, 6:45 AM
  #8  
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
 
charrisps6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 26
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Irish_alley
does the check engine light first come on when the key is turned "on"?
Yes, I’m sure it comes on and then blinks off and then back on again, another thing I forgot to mention was while I was away for school the truck set up for 4 or 5 months. I’ve replaced the gas and drove it as much as I could considering it idling so rough and shutting off, but mainly every time I have to jump it to get it going.
Old June 17th, 2019, 11:02 AM
  #9  
I'm here for the party
 
Irish_alley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,416
Received 71 Likes on 66 Posts
Default

How old is the filter?

But with any computerized engine, when all else fails check your grounds. Take them off clean them and see what happens even the battery cables.

Was working on a 89 checked everything, replaced fuel filter, checked fuel pressure. Would smoke bad and when it warmed up would most the times stall. If you tried to floor it the engine would pop and sputter but wouldn't really take off. Battery kept dying so I swapped it with the one in my 94. Started back up and pretty much noticed it starting to run better. Took it out and it ran like nothing was wrong. Swapped batteries back to the original and it was still running great. Never did find out what the issue was thinking it was a poor ground but I also added fuel.
Old June 17th, 2019, 11:19 AM
  #10  
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
 
charrisps6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 26
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Irish_alley
How old is the filter?

But with any computerized engine, when all else fails check your grounds. Take them off clean them and see what happens even the battery cables.

Was working on a 89 checked everything, replaced fuel filter, checked fuel pressure. Would smoke bad and when it warmed up would most the times stall. If you tried to floor it the engine would pop and sputter but wouldn't really take off. Battery kept dying so I swapped it with the one in my 94. Started back up and pretty much noticed it starting to run better. Took it out and it ran like nothing was wrong. Swapped batteries back to the original and it was still running great. Never did find out what the issue was thinking it was a poor ground but I also added fuel.
The filter is pretty new, K&N. And when you say grounds? I took out the battery and put a good one from another truck in it and it done the same thing. My next step is to maybe check the alternator?

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 4:48 AM.