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95 k1500 transfer case, fuse or no fuse?

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Old July 17th, 2014, 8:21 PM
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Default 95 k1500 transfer case, fuse or no fuse?

Hello everyone,

I'm new to this particular forum and i have a question concerning my 95 k1500 chevy truck i just purchased not too long ago. I bought it cheap with 115k on the body & supposedly around 89k on a 350 out of a 92 dump truck. Originally this truck was a 305. Anyways, i searched the forum and cant seem to find on with my similar problem, or what might not be a problem. As stupid as this sounds, is it necessary for their to be a fuse in the transfer case fuse spot in the interior fuse box. I'll explain why I'm asking. This truck is a project that i intend only to use in the winter time , for hunting, & for towing. I have the floor shifter for the 4wd and my truck is a 5speed. I park my truck when I'm not working on it on a hill that is adjacent to the garage. I spin tire when I'm in 2h on the hill so i put it in 4h to get in and out of the spot, and i can definitely tell a difference. The other day i had to fix a problem related to rear running lights as i kept blowing fuses. I got the problem fixed and just for the heck of it decided to check all of my fuses. Upon doing this i noticed that for some reason i have no fuse, which i think on mine should be a 25amp fuse, in the slot for my transfer case. I read around and the reason i ask if its necessary to have a fuse their is that everything I've read related to the transfer case and fuses blowing seem to leave you unable to shift in and out of 4x4, Yet mine shifts and the top light on the wheel diagram for the front wheels on the shifter light up, but the bottom light for the back wheels don't. So is that all this fuse is for, as in the lighting on the diagram, or is my 4wheel drive not working?
Old July 18th, 2014, 12:10 PM
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Easy way to figure this out is to look at the slot. Look at it closely, if the fuse slot has two metal tabs behind the plastic it should have a fuse, if it has one metal tab or no tabs it is unnecessary for your options package.

I'll grab some pics to better show what you are looking for.



*EDIT*

Now, this picture was taken with my 99 GMT-400 trucks fuse box which takes the mini blade fuses, if memory serves me correctly your 95 should have the larger standard blade fuses, but this is no big deal. The process is the same with all blade fuses.

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Last edited by Ronin1014; July 18th, 2014 at 12:42 PM. Reason: adding discriptive photo
Old July 20th, 2014, 4:54 PM
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I appreciate it Ronin1014 turns out that there are no tabs so i guess i dont need it after all. I do have the micro fuses though. I was more worried that it was hot wired somewhere with some of rigged work i've found done to this truck so far lol. But thanks for clearing that up for me.
Old July 21st, 2014, 1:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ill4na8na2
I appreciate it Ronin1014 turns out that there are no tabs so i guess i dont need it after all. I do have the micro fuses though. I was more worried that it was hot wired somewhere with some of rigged work i've found done to this truck so far lol. But thanks for clearing that up for me.
Oh yeah, I know all about randumb wiring, I see it all the time,every vehicle I have scrapped out I pull at minimum five pounds of non native copper wire out of it. One thing that will hold consistent is the fuse box. Most DiYers don't have the technical skills to alter the fuse box, hell, even I am hard pressed to alter a fuse box and I have the technical skills. That said you'll almost never find an altered fuse box. That's not because it's not done, it's because 99 times out of a 100 when a fuse box is altered it's done by some one who knows how to do it and you'll never even see it. It's very rare to find a DiYer does try to alter it and jimmy rigs some things, in all my years I have only seen two j-rigged fuse boxes and one does not count because I did it trying to learn. Most times when someone, be they professional or DiYer, needs to put a fuse in they usually go with in line fuses and generally place them where they are easy to access making them easy enough to find.

All that said, when you encounter some thing like this the method I outlined is the fastest and easiest way to tell what had a fuse originally and what didn't and it's 99% accurate. It still holds high accuracy even if the electronics have been tampered with, if it was in fact hotwired to bypass a fuse those tabs would still be in the fuse box. It's easier to just snip the wires and splice them at the box then to remove those tabs. think of it this way, anyone stupid enough to just up and bypass a fuse for whatever reason, is not smart enough to take the box apart to extract a single set of wires.

Now, if you had push button 4wd, no fuse and it still worked...then I'd be worried
Old December 13th, 2018, 9:03 PM
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Default Running lights?

Originally Posted by ill4na8na2
Hello everyone,

I'm new to this particular forum and i have a question concerning my 95 k1500 chevy truck i just purchased not too long ago. I bought it cheap with 115k on the body & supposedly around 89k on a 350 out of a 92 dump truck. Originally this truck was a 305. Anyways, i searched the forum and cant seem to find on with my similar problem, or what might not be a problem. As stupid as this sounds, is it necessary for their to be a fuse in the transfer case fuse spot in the interior fuse box. I'll explain why I'm asking. This truck is a project that i intend only to use in the winter time , for hunting, & for towing. I have the floor shifter for the 4wd and my truck is a 5speed. I park my truck when I'm not working on it on a hill that is adjacent to the garage. I spin tire when I'm in 2h on the hill so i put it in 4h to get in and out of the spot, and i can definitely tell a difference. The other day i had to fix a problem related to rear running lights as i kept blowing fuses. I got the problem fixed and just for the heck of it decided to check all of my fuses. Upon doing this i noticed that for some reason i have no fuse, which i think on mine should be a 25amp fuse, in the slot for my transfer case. I read around and the reason i ask if its necessary to have a fuse their is that everything I've read related to the transfer case and fuses blowing seem to leave you unable to shift in and out of 4x4, Yet mine shifts and the top light on the wheel diagram for the front wheels on the shifter light up, but the bottom light for the back wheels don't. So is that all this fuse is for, as in the lighting on the diagram, or is my 4wheel drive not working?
I was wondering what you issues where with running lights and what the fix was having issues with mine. And the front actuator on 4wd too but mainly looking to solve light issue
Old April 7th, 2024, 6:50 PM
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Default 97 chevy silverado k1500

My chevy is stuck in 4wd low I've did the neutral backup thing numerous times a couple weeks ago I smelt wires burning,my battery keeps draining and now stuck in 4wd low what could cause this
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