rickybobby2189

I am having a problem with my 97 z-71 4x4 truck. I love my truck and just had my first big problem with it and need desperately help with my 4wd. Let me start by saying I live on a mountain side and need my 4wd on a daily basis and also so poor I cant afford throwing parts at it unless I know what it is. I had just had it in 4wd when I was pulling down the driveway to get my wife at the bottom of the hill where she parks and got her in the truck and started back and the wheels started spinning. Long story short I have no floor light showing it is locked in. Got up here and done a few mins of research to find out the auctuator (cant spell) are bad to go out BUT mine is a 97 when they were suppose to be updated. Anyway I checked the fuse and it was blown so i replaced it with a 20 (what it called for) and thought it would then work.I was wrong....Ive read the auctuator goes bad causing it to blow fuses but it never blew again and will not lock in???Thats where im stumped...I know something caused the fuse to blow because like i said I use it daily and cant figure why if the auctator is bad then why wont it blow another fuse as so many people has went thru? Is this something someone else with a kind heart on here has been thru I just hate to go spend a bill on one and it not be my problem at all.Keep in mind mine is a floor shift and NOT the button style. Is there any way to test this??also another strange thing is it already has some type of wiring harness on it that i can tell didnt come factory so thats telling me maybe someone has already had this problem???? Can i replace the auctuator and be back on the go?? Ive had this truck exactly a year with no problems while using 4wd every day? ALso if it helps the fourwheel always locked in fairly quick compared to the peoples that were going out? Even in the winter id lock it in and about 5 seconds it was locked in....Please I need help Im in a location I dont trust leaving my truck at bottom of the hill and i desperately need help finding my problem.....Thank you for reading this long list of a problem and please HELP lol Thanks Rick

vanddelor

idk about gm trucks but i've been lucky with tapping on actuators and sometimes they'll kick back on for a second or two. If you can, maybe have it lift it on a hoist off the ground a little bit and have someone tap on the actuator to see if it clicks back on and engages.

rickybobby2189

Please help someone???? Is there a way to test the actuator??? I have taken it out and plugged it back it and then turned the key on while in 4wd HI and it does nothing no sound or heat (i read 97's where diffrent then the older chevys) not nothing at all.

EinST

Which 20A fuse did you replace? Check the following fuses in the I/P fuse block?

20A TCase fuse 2
25A 4WD fuse 24
20A Turn B/U fuse 16
10A Gauges fuse 4

rickybobby2189

25A *4WD* fuse 24 is the one i replaced and havent been able to get it to blow since but it still isnt locking in....I was hoping it would considering if it did it again the actuator would be my problem...I hate to throw a 100$bill into it not knowing for sure if thats my problem.

EinST

How about the other three fuses in the set I posted? Are they okay?

As far as the front axle actuator, if there's ignition voltage present on one wire and ground on the other with key on, transmission in gear, and 4WD selected, the problem is probably the actuator. If not, check the wiring and whatever is upstream of the actuator.

rickybobby2189

Yes the other fuses are good. I am like you and thinking that is the problem just unsure of myself as I have never had to deal with automatic locking system(much rather have manual hubs) so Im guessing I will have to invest in a new actuator....BTW I put my voltage tester on the light blue wire and grounded it on the frame and got the ignition voltage so there again Im with you thinking it would be a actuator. Since how I had it out and everything I plugged it back up (with it out of the front end) and repeated the steps to check for voltage and got no sound,movement,or nothing out of it. I know in 97 they were changed from vaccum lines to electric so is there a way to test it like i was doing? I know the newer ones like that were suppose to be ran off of some type of gasses or something (not sure what) and got no heat or nothing off the tip...I might be peeing in the wind trying to test it like that but thought it was worth a shot since how i had it out. Do you know if there is a way to bench test them any which way?

EinST

Be sure it gets both ignition voltage and ground. When thus powered, it should extend. The old style was vacuum actuated but they both do the same thing.

rickybobby2189

Thats a very good point my father had mentioned after I had come in and cleaned up.I didnt ground it I just left it hang while it was pluged up and you get the picture lol....Thanks soo much for the advice....I will definately have to check that...I would right now but it is pouring the rain down right now.I dont mind laying on the wet but while its coming down hard is what bothers me lol....THANKS A MILLION I will keep you updated...I have seen so many times people on these fourms get advice and not let everyone know the verdict and that gets under my skin because maybe the advice got it fixed and maybe it didnt some people just leave you in the dark.

EinST

Actually I meant checking for continuity between the ground wire on the electrical connector and a known chassis ground. I don't think the actuator depends on grounding through the jacket.