99 Z71 1500 will not turn over Help!
October 19th, 2009, 12:59 AM
#12
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Finally..
Alright ya, thanks for all the tips, we finally got it running about 3 weeks ago, turns out the ground that goes to the engine was not tightened up; I had forgotten there was a ground there, and when we checked the screw was almost completely out and the wire had barely any contact. It's crazy how such a stupid little thing fouls everything up so bad. Now I have a main seal leaking...
October 19th, 2009, 10:17 AM
#13
The thing that sux about this ground strap is it's location.
I added a ground strap(used a parts store 4 gauge copper negative cable) from the passenger side head to the passenger side firewall. The OEM groundstrap is an aluminum
POS that's nearly impossible to access without dropping the engine and tranny.
Sorry, didn't mean to beat the drum so loudly before.
I added a ground strap(used a parts store 4 gauge copper negative cable) from the passenger side head to the passenger side firewall. The OEM groundstrap is an aluminum
POS that's nearly impossible to access without dropping the engine and tranny.
Sorry, didn't mean to beat the drum so loudly before.
October 20th, 2009, 11:30 AM
#14
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Naw its ok buddy, in fact Im thinking of doing what you're talking about there and putting a better ground cable on to a different location. What baffles me is that the battery has two grounds (one that goes to the passenger side fender) and nothing worked without both grounds attached.
October 20th, 2009, 3:29 PM
#15
Yeah, if all the grounds aren't hooked up clean and tight, you can start having all sorts of problems.
I've had my radio,wipers, or power windows go out on my vehicle, got me thinking for the world it was a specific problem linked to a given system, all to find out later it was just a wonky negative cable or crusty ground strap.
I've had my radio,wipers, or power windows go out on my vehicle, got me thinking for the world it was a specific problem linked to a given system, all to find out later it was just a wonky negative cable or crusty ground strap.
November 13th, 2015, 2:30 PM
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Check for 12 on the solenoid wire of the starter while you are canking it. If you have 12volts, you need a starter.
If you don't have 12 volts, check the IGN A 40amp fuse in the fuse panel, also finnd the starter relay in the fuse panel and swap it out with another relay(usually the horn relay works fine). Also look at the instrument panel fuse box. There is a 10amp fuse in location 8 labelled CRANK.
If that doesn't work, go to the tranny,find the neutral safety switch(where the shift linkage is connected the the trans), and test for 12volts during crank on the ppl\white wire. That is the wire that feeds the relay. If you have 12 volts, the problem is either a broken wire between here and the relay, or a problem with the relay power or grounds.
If you don't have 12 volts, check for 12v while cranking on the purple wire, that wire comes from the key....If you have voltage, replace the neutral safety switch.
If you don't have 12v, go to the ignition switch inside the vehicle and test for 12v on thered wire(s), If you don't have 12 volts, check that fuse under the hood again, or find the broken wire to the switch.
If you do have 12 volts, check the yellow wire for 12v during crank. If you do have 12 volts, find the broken wire between the switch and tranny, also re-check the crank fuse in the fuse box inside.
If you don;t have 12v, replace the ignition switch.
If you follow this diagnosis, you WILL find the problem in probably less than an hour.
You can use a test light or a voltmeter for diagnosis, doesn't really matter
If you don't have 12 volts, check the IGN A 40amp fuse in the fuse panel, also finnd the starter relay in the fuse panel and swap it out with another relay(usually the horn relay works fine). Also look at the instrument panel fuse box. There is a 10amp fuse in location 8 labelled CRANK.
If that doesn't work, go to the tranny,find the neutral safety switch(where the shift linkage is connected the the trans), and test for 12volts during crank on the ppl\white wire. That is the wire that feeds the relay. If you have 12 volts, the problem is either a broken wire between here and the relay, or a problem with the relay power or grounds.
If you don't have 12 volts, check for 12v while cranking on the purple wire, that wire comes from the key....If you have voltage, replace the neutral safety switch.
If you don't have 12v, go to the ignition switch inside the vehicle and test for 12v on thered wire(s), If you don't have 12 volts, check that fuse under the hood again, or find the broken wire to the switch.
If you do have 12 volts, check the yellow wire for 12v during crank. If you do have 12 volts, find the broken wire between the switch and tranny, also re-check the crank fuse in the fuse box inside.
If you don;t have 12v, replace the ignition switch.
If you follow this diagnosis, you WILL find the problem in probably less than an hour.
You can use a test light or a voltmeter for diagnosis, doesn't really matter
I know this an old post, but you helped out a bunch for me today. Thank you so much for posting this!! My purple and white wire came out of the neutral safety switch. Thank you again!!
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