Accelerator Pedal Sensor
 

Has anyone had to change the gas pedal sensor (Accelerator Pedal Sensor)? The part is around 87 dollars from the dealership, and there are two screws holding it in place. Would just changing it, have any problem with the computer recognizing the replacement, or should I pull the battery cable to reset the computer? If I pull the battery connection, what would I lose in the way of information that the computer has stored? Is there a way to see the codes on the display using the control buttons on the dash?

Did you get a trouble code for this? Typically, the sensor on the pedal and one on the throttle body have to be sync'd.

In short, disconnect the battery, ensure the "butterfly" in the throttle body is closed (recomend you clean the throttle body when you do this).

Try Rockauto.com to find a replacement part...they are usually half the price of the dealership.

Welcome to the forum...
What year of vehicle are you working on?
The procedure I see for the 07 Tahoe with the 5.3 only indicates that the scan tool is used to verify operating ranges and no programming is required...

If you replace it please do follow up with how it went...:cool:

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Service Information
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - 2WD | Avalanche, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 1741273
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Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Replacement
Removal Procedure
Notice: Handle the electronic throttle control components carefully. Use cleanliness in order to prevent damage. Do not drop the electronic throttle control components. Do not roughly handle the electronic throttle control components. Do not immerse the electronic throttle control components in cleaning solvents of any type.





Remove the knee bolster. Refer to Knee Bolster Replacement .
Push down the small tab and disconnect the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor electrical connector (1).



Remove the accelerator pedal bolts.
Remove the accelerator pedal.
Installation Procedure




Position the accelerator pedal to the accelerator pedal bracket.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

Install the accelerator pedal bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 9 N·m (80 lb in).





Connect the APP sensor electrical connector (1).
Connect a scan tool to the diagnostic port in order to test for proper throttle-opening and throttle-closing range.
Operate the accelerator pedal and monitor the throttle angles. The accelerator pedal should operate freely, without binding, between a closed throttle, and a wide open throttle (WOT).
Verify that the vehicle meets the following conditions:
• The vehicle is not in a reduced engine power mode.

• The ignition is ON.

• The engine is OFF.

Install the knee bolster. Refer to Knee Bolster Replacement .
© 2011 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

Thanks for the information, I'm working on my 2008 silverado LT, and I just got the replacement part from the dealer (he was the cheapest around). I haven't installed it yet as it's snowing like crazy and I don't want to get the inside covered to where I have to shovel it out... I'll replace it when it stops snowing. I didn't get a 'code', but the truck went into reduced engine power, and when I took it to a friend with a 'reader' he told me that it was the 'Accelerator Pedal Sensor', and that it was covered under warranty. Well, the warranty expired according to the dealership, (I only have 73000 miles on it so far) and that it would cost around 200 dollars to fix (parts and labor). So for the price of the part ($69) I'll do it myself, after the snow stops. It's not having the problem all of the time, in fact, it reset the check engine light after two restarts. So I think I have time to replace it before it fails completely. Is there a way to get the codes from the dash display?

The OBD 2 system can only be access via a reader...there are lots of cool readers out there some even work with an Android phone via Bluetooth...

You can pick up a basic reader at Harbor Freight or check Amazon for some options for less then $60 and they work with just about any vehicle manufactured after 2000....

Well, I replaced the unit, and for a few days I had trouble free, light and code free driving. Just today though, I started to have the same problem, check engine light comes on, as well as the engine going into reduced power mode. Pulling over to the side of the road and waiting for a few minutes with the engine off gives me full power again and sort of good power. I see, and feel the engine shudder and the tach jump a little. I don't want to believe that the part is bad already, and I have checked the connection to the plug. It looks good, but I don't know if it's an insulation displacement type of connector, or just crimped to the ends. I have just had the problem arise so I have to hit the books (I have the service manual from the helm) to see where the wires go to (which computer and connector). If you have heard of this problem before, I would love a heads up on it. I don't have a garage to work on it and it's kinda cold outside right now (6 degrees, but sunny) in western NY. Thanks.

If the code is P2138, there's a TSB. Search for "#07-06-04-019" on the web. Basically if there is water intrusion into the kick panel area, it can cause a short on the APP circuits. It's possible that disturbing the wiring harness made things better for a few days.

Thanks for the info on the connector near the left kick plate, in taking the plastic off,I saw a lot of salt buildup. Cleaning it out was not a problem though, and the connector was not involved with the buildup. The connectors were clean and shiny, and tight. The problem still shows up every other drive, and makes me pull over to shut down the engine and wait till the power drains to reset and drive away with full power. Now the problem has progressed to a bad battery charging system.... The battery checks good on a load test, and the gauge show that there is a charge coming from the engine. I'm starting to think that there might be a computer monitoring problem? I hope not...

Jeez, I hate those intermittent electrical problems. I hope it progresses to a hard error stage but without stranding you in an awkward place.

Just because your friend had a code reader it did not tell him the pedal sensor was bad. It would have told him the computer sees a problem in that system. It could be a problem in the wiring. A code number would help us help you. The code could have been for correlation between the APP sensor and the TP sensor. The TP sensor is part of the t-body. It could be as simple as sticking t-plates. The wiring to the t-body could have a problem as in previous years. It could need a new t-body. Start the truck if reduced engine power light is not on wiggle the wires at the t-body see if light comes on.