Brake Line Replacement Tips
 

Hi,
New to the forum, but not to forums.
I've searched here already, and found nothing addressing this question.

I'm stuck replacing all of my brake lines, since gm saw fit to use a crappy low bid vendor to supply them.
This is on an '03 1500HD Crew.

Found a place to get pre bent stainless lines...they are on the way, but I want to do what I can to prep for installation when they get here.. (I'm in a bit of a hurry/need for the truck)
Classic Tube | GM/GMC replacement brake lines | GM trucks | GMC Four wheel drive trucks | stainless steel brake lines | fuel hoses |


I have everything broken loose, and have the lines loosened from the plastic clips everywhere, but I don't know how I'm going to get them fed thru a couple of places where they bunch up...two different frame to body passes.

Do you lift the cab? Is it worth the work, or will I have to straighten out my pre-bent lines??
(On the crew cab truck, the ABS modulator is under the drivers seat area)
It's appears to me that these were installed prior to the cab being mated with the frame in the factory.
Besides removing the mounting bolts, is there anything else that will prevent me from/break, if I bring the cab up just a few inches, and stick a 2x4 in the gap?

I've only found where a guy removed his bed, but that was on a regular cab truck, where the modulator was further back.

Any advice/pointing me to a tutorial somewhere that I haven't been able to find with google would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Chris

Wish I could help, Chris. Sounds like you are replacing lines all the way from master cylinder? Seems to me lifting bed a few inches might be feasible, but, hey, I don't know much! Somebody else chime in...

At work we use classic tubes all the time, they make a very nice product. We have never removed the cab/ body. For the Suburban you have to remove all the body bolts on the drivers side then use 2 pole jacks from the floor to the body and jack up only the left side 4-6 inches. If I remember correctly on the pick up you need to unbolt the cab on the drivers side then jack it up enough to remove the body bushing just in front of the drivers door. The classic tube lines should be stainless steel, you must tighten them much tighter then the standard lines on they will leak. You should use a line wrench.

Thanks for the reply MD..
So, besides removing the body bolts, I don't have to worry about breaking anything else, as long as I only bring it up 4-6"?
Sort of like a temporary body lift?
I have a line wrench set, and have been using it...(thanks to my Grandpa 25 yrs ago..)
That module isn't mounted very well..kinda worried when I was breaking the old lines loose that it was going to break off of the frame..they were pretty snug...guess we'll see..
Any tips on getting that thing bled?
I read there is a gizmo to make it activate..I foresee that stupid thing being a real pain to get the air out of...is there a jumper wire method?
Every bit of fluid drained out of the MC thru that drivers rear broken line, while it sat there...by gravity, not pumping the pedal.
I thought the MC had split systems...(front/back)
I had NO brakes, even after several pumps..think is IT's bad/malfunctioning too?

I'm familiar with/have bled regular brakes plenty of times, but not ABS. (furthest to nearest to the MC)
Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again.

Nothing special to do at all. Bleed like normal RR,LR,RF,LF and that is it. No need to do anything with the ABS. It will bleed. To get the lines out of the module I take an air saw (you can use a hack saw or saw zaw) and cut them close to the fitting. then use a socket to remove the fitting. I do them 1 line at a time.

OK...Thanks MD.

I've already got all of the lines and bleeders removed/loose..just waiting for the lines..
I'm going to get the body lifted in the AM.
Getting the lines worked thru there at the wheel well and over the frame to the ABS module looked like the most difficult part....but getting the body to frame clearance opened up should make it much easier.

Thanks!

Take the drivers inner fender out also

if the lines from the m/c go to a junction block(located just under the m/c) and then to the abs pump you may need a proportioning valve release tool to bleed the rear brakes. The tool costs about $15.

Thanks MD..it's done..thanks..
Just waiting for the lines to arrive..

No Proportioning valve on my truck, Tech...
I believe that something like that is MISSING!

Ya' know..no one has actually commented on that..
I had ZERO brakes, because the single line that feeds both rear brakes failed.
Something is wrong with that scenario...and at rest, the remaining fluid from the MC reservoir drained out of that line, by gravity...


I'm pissed that I have to do this job at all, (I've had cars from the '50's that didn't need brake lines) but I'm MORE upset that I had to find out about it by loosing my brakes while driving.

GM can notify me because my 'tailgate straps' could rust and fail, but NOT my brakes?
We ALL know this didn't just happen to ME..

End rant...

Thanks for your replies guys..

I know its not ideal, but if need be couldn't a coupler be installed if its needed to cut the line to be accommodated for fit?

Vehicles are now designed for a much shorter time to planned obsolescence...
5-7 years would be my guess