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Old July 22nd, 2015, 10:37 AM
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Brake Line Replacement Tips

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Old April 30th, 2013, 8:09 PM
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some trucks don't have the junction block.


all the new chevy trucks have coated brake lines to help prevent rust.
Old August 7th, 2014, 9:22 PM
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Did you ever change those brake lines? Have to do a set myself, wondering if you have any tips other than what MD posted.
Old August 8th, 2014, 12:10 AM
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I put a pry bar on the brake pedal to slightly apply it. this will seal off the compensating ports in the m/c. this will seal off the reservoir and prevent the m/c from going dry. Just makes it easier to bleed later. pull the brake light fuse so the battery won't drain.
Old August 8th, 2014, 12:00 PM
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Moranogordo

Yes...I did it..
Didn't take as long as I thought it would...
I replaced every line, including the flexible ones on the calipers.
GM put CRAP in these trucks..do not trust them..
I can't believe this hasn't been recalled....

You absolutely HAVE to make sure you have the double jacking capability before you start...unless you can get under the truck w/out getting it on jackstands..
Plan ahead where you put the stands so they aren't in the way too...

You'll probably laugh, but after getting the truck up/safely stabilized, I used about a 4 foot long 4x4 balanced on the floor jack, under the rocker panel to lift the cab from the frame.. (after unbolting it of course..see pic)
Reason being, this kept the jack out of my way...the lines run on top of the frame the whole way, so I couldn't put blocks/shims in between..and there was really nowhere else as I recall to get a good purchase, w/out punching in the floorpan, or crimping a wiring harness or something...
One thing I didn't do, and would have made things easier, was to FIRST, disconnect the e-brake cable assembly from the pedal...otherwise you can only get about 2 inches of lift before the cable gets too tight...
I forget right now why I didn't go back and do it...maybe because I like a challenge...lol


edit: I don't know why this link isn't working...look for it in the album link below..

There are a whole bunch of pix in this folder if you want to figure out what they are...lol (not labeled)
https://picasaweb.google.com/McGyver...CO-2_Kbd2JuDBw

Also, I'd look for a vacuum bleeder to borrow, rent or buy...much easier/better than the old assistant method...and 2 quarts of fluid..
Autozone said they usually have a loaner...I ended up buying one, since it was out...and my Dads leg was ready to fall off after the first line..lol
Use a line wrench too..

Good luck!

PS

The new lines fit perfect!! Great product!

Last edited by McGyver9; August 8th, 2014 at 12:06 PM.
Old August 9th, 2014, 10:00 AM
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Thanks for the responses!
I am hoping to get this done within the next week or so, luckily i haven't lost a line yet. I was concerned with lifting the body, i guess a couple inches up is all that's needed.
They won't recall this, but they sent me a recall for a loop on my split rear seat.
Old August 10th, 2014, 9:28 AM
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Lifting the body was practically as easy as jacking the truck up....
Again, loosening/removing the e-brake cable will make the lift and whole procedure even easier...might look into what that entails, ahead of time.....

I hope the pictures helped..
There is an underneath view of where the 4x4 is on the rocker, if you think you'll go that route..
It worked great..
Old August 28th, 2014, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by in2pro
I know its not ideal, but if need be couldn't a coupler be installed if its needed to cut the line to be accommodated for fit?

Vehicles are now designed for a much shorter time to planned obsolescence...
5-7 years would be my guess
"You're absolutely not kidding!!!!.... What's up with that???.... Our price paid for a new truck is not easily recycled!? In 5-7 years towards a new truck!?... At least not most of us!
And to make things worse, who's designing these trucks? The new models bumpers are "plastic"?... Serious?.. What happened to Chrome bumpers?.I will not be buying one of those!, it takes the whole spirit/style, shine/Sparkle, it Protects the entire Truck!...It represents Power " Like a Rock"..American Vehicles Are ; GM better really rectify this soon!...Forget fuel efficiency!!! The body of the truck has been compromised!!!(... low way low down...!
Old August 29th, 2014, 12:10 AM
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Lightbulb 2001 Chevy Suburban XL Low Break pedal!..

Originally Posted by in2pro
I know its not ideal, but if need be couldn't a coupler be installed if its needed to cut the line to be accommodated for fit?

Vehicles are now designed for a much shorter time to planned obsolescence...
5-7 years would be my guess


Question?
Please help!.., We just replaced all brake lines, brake pads, callipers, & Master cylinder, etc.!!! Everything for our Ol reliable! Baby girl!
We've bleed the breaks a few times, first; bench bled when replacing master cylinder, then pumped the old fashioned way a few times normal routine, starting from R,r L,r F,r F,l . The brake pedal' still low, takes time to break, 'Stop' !!! What to do any suggestions!

Last edited by MRitzC; August 29th, 2014 at 12:19 AM. Reason: Misspelled !....
Old August 30th, 2014, 2:51 AM
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So, it turns out, I'am looking for replies to: " my 1) question Brakes, low pedal,
2) Comment on; Newly designed plastic bumpers on SUV's ! Sadly Cheap?!...who's designing for GM?.... (
I'm looking for advise on the breaks, low pedal... ? Guess,? thought I had 17 replies.
I was the 17 reply!!!!???? To what ?...idk!... Scary!whoesignedthiswebs?.
HOW TO ACTUALLY VIEW REPLIES?, &\advise? Serious.
Old August 30th, 2014, 8:40 AM
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As to the low pedal question...Not really sure what you mean...
Do you mean the pedal is not coming back up as high as normal?
I've not messed w/ a master cylinder in a LONG time....are you sure you got the right one? (I've got the wrong part in the right box on several occasions, or 're-manufactured' parts, that weren't fixed)
The return spring always was inside of the master cyl, in my past experience..
Is there a return spring on the pedal itself that maybe came off?

I'd get a vacuum brake bleeder....it's like 30 bux...SO easy!!
All it takes is one time for you and your brake pumper to get out of sync, and you have to start over again..
You can NOT have any air in your lines....and that modulator thing I'm sure is full of areas to get trapped air..

As for GM junk...
The 'metal' bumpers up here where I live last about 5 years, till they turn into chrome layers of pringles potato chips...just like my rear brake rotors did, after only 15,000 miles... (you read that right)
They don't care about quality....or longevity....
Since they can't make a REAL chrome bumper that'll last, for the 10 bucks they have budgeted for that part in the overall cost of the truck, they came up with the plastic one...PLUS, their 5 year old vehicle won't look like a piece of $hit at first glance...(just don't look at the gas-cap door that's rusted thru)
I could go on for an hour about stupid Americans accepting this crap, and having this 'just throw it away, buy a new one (yay for ME..I got a new one)' mentality...but I'll save you.

I just bought a Hyundai yesterday for my wife...never even LOOKED at Chevy...and that is just about all I've ever owned..
I'm done with them.....

Hope you get your brakes sorted out...


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