movado750

So I have a 2006 Silverado lowered with a 2/4 drop. I have replaced rotors twice now, the first ones I thought that I just got a bad set.

The second set I put in are the expensive ones. I still get shudder from anything over 30 mph.

I have rear drums that look a good, my front inner tie rods have a little movement, but the truck only has 50K on it.

can someone point me in the right direction to fix this please. this shudder is annoying and hell.

1Ton-K1500

does it change while braking?
is it constant or is it worse at say 45 and 60?
have you checked your tires for broken belts(even if new they can break)
did you measure runout on rotors before and after replacing
do you feel it in steering wheel or just in brake pedal or whole truck?

movado750

It is pretty consistant from any speed over 30 mph and pretty much stops after 30 or so.

It is worse over 45 but not that much worse.

tires are brand new.

No I did not measure the run out not sure what that is?

Steering wheel and the truck shakes a little.

Thanks,
Miles

ukrkoz

1. I am assuming, shake starts after you apply brakes?
2. is it felt in body or in steering wheel? In pedals?
3. if it's felt in steering wheel, is it entire all over shudder, or side to side shake in steering?
4. it's a truck. it's not a Caddie. it will shake and shudder some one way or the other
5. you should have NO PLAY ANYWHERE IN YOUR SUSPENSION AND STEERING; none. they do not permit even slightest tolerances. mof, they are right. you have a very large diameter wheel with tire, spinning at high rpms, so any slop in hubs, tie rod ends, tie rods, pitman, if you have one, or idler, if you have one, will amplify that slop.

here's a good reference:

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/vibechart.pdf

movado750

1. Yes just after applying the brakes.
2. Pretty much just the steering wheel. maybe a little in the body.
3. all over shudder.
4. My inner tie rods are a bit loose.

You really think that can cause the shudder. Is it cause of the lowering springs I installed?

Tater76

Just another thought, what about tires being out of balance? If you have aftermarket rims that are chrome some shops won't install weights on the pretty side just to keep the clean look. Instead they put them on the backside, and sometimes they get thrown. I would take it back to the tire shop where you bought them, and they might rebalance them for free?

ukrkoz

though it may sound laborious, you prolly will be better off going through that flow chart.
I know mine had minor looseness in driver side hub, and wobble was terrifying if road hit at wrong angle.

honestly, you need to sit down and ask yourself:
did I have this before I lowered/raised my truck? if not - well, pretty much, you have answer. Any changes to suspension change factory geometry and may result in who knows what.

if it kicks into steering wheel, it's front end and might as well be relevant to tie rods. they are not bad to replace at all. alignment can not also be set true, if rods are loose.

did that shudder manifest itself right after you replaced rotors or it took some time? I had a Honda that was burning rotors, it will take her 2 weeks to warp them from new.

I'd also suggest checking on brake pad wear and rotors color. If it's bluish, you have dragging caliper....

OLD WRENCH

Are you cleaning the rotors when you put them on? Some are sprayed with rust proofing that can cause trouble.

MDTAHOE

While driving at around 30-40 in a safe place. Hold the parking brake release handle in the release position, slowly apply the p-brake do not let go of the release handle or the rear wheels will lock up. Does it pulsate? If so the drums are your problem.

ToooTall1

ABS will give you pedal shudder w/o giving a code when braking at speeds up to 30.