ShadowDrake

Hey there... I come from MustangForums, and am here because I'm having an issue. I was going to help my friend swap the intake manifold gasket on his 97 Silverado (small block V8, ~305 cubes, not positive on the displacement but that is close at least). I've got it all torn down and the intake manifold will not come out! All 8 bolts are out and the manifold slides forward and backwards almost 2 inches, so there's no way there are any bolts left... my problem though, when I try to pull up on the manifold to take it off it only goes up about 1/4 of an inch and it makes a metal-on-metal contact sound. I can't see if it is hitting anything though.

I know it will be hitting the bracket that the A/C compressor pump was on, but it doesn't even get that high before it bonks into something else. I had to grind a section of that bracket away to get to one of the manifold bolts... I have some working room there.

I'd like to avoid taking off the valve covers... but that isn't a big deal... what I REALLY don't want to do is take off that bracket that the A/C compressor was on, because it houses the power steering also, and I have a hard time getting to some of the bolts because the pulley is in the way.

So what am I forgetting? I can take some pictures if need be.

carpenterbill

the valve covers will have to come off. Is this a TBI or a MPI engine? There should be holes in the pulley to get to the bolts without taking it off, if your talking about the PS pump pulley.

ShadowDrake

TBI, I'd guess, it just has two fuel lines run to the intake manifold, one is obviously a supply, I'm guessing the other is a return.

Guess I'm going to have to attack the power steering area... and take the valve covers off... Thanks for your help... Have any other tips?

carpenterbill

GET A MANUAL AND READ IT there is a lot of good stuff in there, even if its a cheap one from autozone. I will not touch someone elses stuff(or mine for that matter) with out one. I forced a guy to buy one for an astrovan once, he wanted the water pump changed, ended up being a procedure for filling the vehical with coolant he was not doing(damb fords). this is just an example, but could and will save time and money.

the book will tell you just what to take off and when, what to look out for(gasoline can be dangerous) and how to put it back together. the cheap ones are only 15-20 buck it will save you that much in head scratching.

a few tips from experience, only use a large pea sized dab of RTV to seal the seam of the gaskets(where the heads meet the block) more is not better, it can run in the engine cloging oil return passages if it is slopped on in large amounts. I know it seems like comon sence but I have seen some crappy work.

use a few thin dabs of RTV to hold the gaskets on the head upon installation of the mainifold. Also have help setting it on the engine, you dont want to have to move it around after it sits on the gaskets, just set it were it goes so you get a good seal, you dont want to do it twice.

take the hood off the truck, makes it a lot easyer

these are just off the top of my head, I know theres more but they should be in the book. And sorry if im pointing out the obvious, but it is often over looked.

good luck!!

ShadowDrake

Thanks. I did pick up a book from AutoZone... prior to tackling this job, mostly because I've never dove into a chevy engine before... Most of my work has been on Ford's modular motors. It's a haynes manual, all they had. I don't think I am going to be buying Haynes manuals any more, though. The one I bought for my stang is incorrect in many areas... for example, it doesn't mention a THING about coil-on-plug ignition systems, it insists I have coil packs and plug wires... yet I can look at my engine and see a coil over every plug... information is missing and often incorrect with Haynes manuals. The one for my friend's truck is "accurate" but it's so vague the things they describe would work for any engine. For example, the first couple steps are nice, tells me to specifically disconnect the giant plug on top of the intake manifold... but the next step states: "Disconnect all electrical connectors, vacuum lines, fuel lines, or any other engine components that may be connected to the intake manifold"... WTF! "It may be necessary to remove other engine components", then it tells me to remove the intake manifold bolts in the next step.

Needless to say I'm VERY displeased with Haynes manuals because they are so vague... which I guess is why I'm here asking if there's any strange things (like valve covers needing to come off []) that I need to do, because the manual doesn't mention a thing about it. I don't think I am going to buy any more haynes manuals, and they are almost totally useless... the only thing I have use for it for is the pattern I need to tighten the intake manifold bolts back down in, and the torque rating... although I fear it may be incorrect.

I have at least one other person available to help me in setting the manifold back down... I've had a couple helping me tear it apart, though they haven't been much use [&:]

Thanks again, I guess I'm going to get back to it tomorrow and I am prepared to take the power steering off. If you have any other tips for that leave another note here... I just need to take off the bolts on the front, correct? A picture would be great here if you can dig one up.

ShadowDrake

Went to take the valve covers off, bolts came out easy, and their gaskets, from what I can see, look in perfect condition. The power steering pump pulley that is supposed to have holes in it, does not... looks like I'm headed out to AutoZone to rent a pulley puller...