k2500 1991 starts nice but stalls
#1
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k2500 1991 starts nice but stalls
Hi!
Having tried my local (=Swedish) forum for help and not gotten my tuck running I turn to the mighty Chevy Forum for help.
The truck is a 91 extended cab Silverado, 5.7l/EFI engine.
Here's the story; my truck starts nicely but very soon starts to stall and stops. If I pump the gas pedal I can keep the motor running for a while more, but if I try putting it into gear there is no power at all and it just dies.
I'll even do like the Mickey Mouse's chipmunks on Christmas - I'll show you:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eTQ0zAayf0
The first start I don't touch the gas pedal, on the second and third I try to get it to rev up by pumping.
I have checked these things and it looks OK:
*Oil pressure switch (replaced)
*Fuel filter (replaced)
*Oil level and oil filter (replaced)
*Fuel lines
*Fuel pump/fuel pressure
*Spark plugs
The water pump is leaking like h*ll but that shouldn't cause anything like this, as far as I know..
I searched a bit on the forum before posting and saw a similar problem having been fixed with new injectors, that might me my next thing to try?
So, any advice on what to do next?
Regards,
Michael
Having tried my local (=Swedish) forum for help and not gotten my tuck running I turn to the mighty Chevy Forum for help.
The truck is a 91 extended cab Silverado, 5.7l/EFI engine.
Here's the story; my truck starts nicely but very soon starts to stall and stops. If I pump the gas pedal I can keep the motor running for a while more, but if I try putting it into gear there is no power at all and it just dies.
I'll even do like the Mickey Mouse's chipmunks on Christmas - I'll show you:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eTQ0zAayf0
The first start I don't touch the gas pedal, on the second and third I try to get it to rev up by pumping.
I have checked these things and it looks OK:
*Oil pressure switch (replaced)
*Fuel filter (replaced)
*Oil level and oil filter (replaced)
*Fuel lines
*Fuel pump/fuel pressure
*Spark plugs
The water pump is leaking like h*ll but that shouldn't cause anything like this, as far as I know..
I searched a bit on the forum before posting and saw a similar problem having been fixed with new injectors, that might me my next thing to try?
So, any advice on what to do next?
Regards,
Michael
#3
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Hard to tell, part from that my frame of reference for judging fuel spray patterns is basic at best and part from me having to work the throttle to keep the beast alive - it must've been a sight seeing me starting the car and then frantically running around and diving under the hood to keep it alive.
However, it doesn't look all bad, there is some kind of cone shaped plume, but I could see hints of drops forming rather than a fine mist.
While I had the air filter off I checked the filters on the injectors and they looked clean enough.
However, it doesn't look all bad, there is some kind of cone shaped plume, but I could see hints of drops forming rather than a fine mist.
While I had the air filter off I checked the filters on the injectors and they looked clean enough.
#5
CF Veteran
not injectors. not distributor teeth.
1. when you pump the pedal to start you arent helping, You are actually turning the fuel pump off. The run circuit for EFI requires you NOT to pump the pedal during starting. The computer runs the injectors on a pulse set up to provide enough fuel for a cold start.
2. If your water pump is leaking my question to you is: Is there any coolant in the engine? An overheating engine will automatically turn off to prevent ruining the block. If your coolant temp sensor, engine coolant temp. switch is sending a extremely HOT signal to the PCM, the PCM will turn the car off.
3. If it starts with no pedal pump then the Idle speed control works during cold starts, but may not be in range after warm-up cycle.
4. TPS sensor could be faulty
5. Vacuum leak
6. Torque Converter Lock up solenoid could be faulty
7. Bad PROM or Bad PCM
1. when you pump the pedal to start you arent helping, You are actually turning the fuel pump off. The run circuit for EFI requires you NOT to pump the pedal during starting. The computer runs the injectors on a pulse set up to provide enough fuel for a cold start.
2. If your water pump is leaking my question to you is: Is there any coolant in the engine? An overheating engine will automatically turn off to prevent ruining the block. If your coolant temp sensor, engine coolant temp. switch is sending a extremely HOT signal to the PCM, the PCM will turn the car off.
3. If it starts with no pedal pump then the Idle speed control works during cold starts, but may not be in range after warm-up cycle.
4. TPS sensor could be faulty
5. Vacuum leak
6. Torque Converter Lock up solenoid could be faulty
7. Bad PROM or Bad PCM
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