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P1345 Code, cam/crankshaft positioning sensor timing off.
February 12th, 2019, 2:50 PM
#11
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hello anyone. New member here. I just put a professionally rebuilt 5.0 liter engine in my 1996 K 1500. I'm getting the 1345 code. I can't see where there is any camshaft position sensor, it's simply not there. I have put a new crank position sensor in it, along with every other sensor on the engine. Have spent more on parts and sensors, then the rebuilt engine cost. Truck starts, but it runs not very well. Don't want to have to take it to the dealer.
Following any progress you make with your 96.
February 12th, 2019, 4:10 PM
#12
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@Chuck1975 the camshaft sensor is in the distributor. I have a freshly rebuilt 350 in my 97 C1500, and I’m getting that code too. So for now I’m kind ruling out that it may be any of the timing chain components, considering that it was professionally rebuilt. I need a new distributor anyway so I’m gonna put a new one in along with a new crankshaft sensor and see if that code clears after that.
Following any progress you make with your 96.
February 12th, 2019, 5:05 PM
#13
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1345 code went away, briefly. Now I get 0 3 0 7, engine misfire on cylinder 7. Don't know if it's a bad injector or pop it. The spark plug looks as if it's brand new, has not got any carbon or black on it from gasoline being in the fuel-Air mix and firing. Forgot to check the compression, while I had that spark plug out. Maybe I tightened one lifter down too far, and one valve is not closing. Just hate the thought of all the labor, to disassemble the intake again.
May 27th, 2019, 9:10 PM
#14
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P1345
Man im having a similar problem on a 97 Chevrolet C3500 flatbed. My Truck was running fine, check engine light came on but truck still running fine no issues in performance. Two days later, truck ran fine first half of the day, killed it, went inside for bout 20 minutes came back out to leave & truck was hard to start, would rough idle for a few seconds & die. Ran OBD2 Scanner got P1345. Replaced camshaft sensor & crankshaft sensor, still no start, replaced fuel pump then realized it was the fuel pump relay...fixed the relay & truck started right up. Ran fine til half way thru the next day then suddenly just died while going down the fwy. So took cap off the distributor & saw it had spun the rotor off, so I put a new rotor on & it started up drove about 10 miles it Backfired (popped) real loud & died AGAIN. So, I bought another new rotor cap, & new plugs & wires, hell even went ahead & bought a new battery...changed those out, was able to finally get it to start up but was a rough start & wouldnt idle on its own, had to keep my foot on the gas petal to keep it from dying. Had it towed to where it sits now & hasnt started back up since I towed it from the fwy. Now, when Im trying to start it it's steadily popping & won't start at all. Anybody have any suggestions on what my next step should be?
Having similar problem. Timing was +30. Pulled distributor up enough to dial back the rotor clockwise one tooth. Timing is still +26. Can believe that only changed 4 degrees. Thinking there must be more to it. I welcome any ideas. Thanks
August 10th, 2021, 9:02 PM
#15
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Did you ever figure this problem out? I am having the same problem with my truck. Recently did lots of work on it myself including many sensors and a distributor and timing chain. I have had the distributor out multiple times trying to move it a tooth over back and forth and no matter what I do or how I turn it, it reads anywhere from -16 to -30 degrees. Does not make much sense but when I move it around it runs better in different spots making me think that somehow the computer is not reading the timing correctly which results in it trying to auto adjust and run terrible. In order for me to be able to run it I have to unplug the maf sensor because it wants to stall out with this much timing retard. I can watch the live data of the maf and it reads good as well as the map. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. Thanks
October 24th, 2023, 10:35 AM
#16
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Man im having a similar problem on a 97 Chevrolet C3500 flatbed. My Truck was running fine, check engine light came on but truck still running fine no issues in performance. Two days later, truck ran fine first half of the day, killed it, went inside for bout 20 minutes came back out to leave & truck was hard to start, would rough idle for a few seconds & die. Ran OBD2 Scanner got P1345. Replaced camshaft sensor & crankshaft sensor, still no start, replaced fuel pump then realized it was the fuel pump relay...fixed the relay & truck started right up. Ran fine til half way thru the next day then suddenly just died while going down the fwy. So took cap off the distributor & saw it had spun the rotor off, so I put a new rotor on & it started up drove about 10 miles it Backfired (popped) real loud & died AGAIN. So, I bought another new rotor cap, & new plugs & wires, hell even went ahead & bought a new battery...changed those out, was able to finally get it to start up but was a rough start & wouldnt idle on its own, had to keep my foot on the gas petal to keep it from dying. Had it towed to where it sits now & hasnt started back up since I towed it from the fwy. Now, when Im trying to start it it's steadily popping & won't start at all. Anybody have any suggestions on what my next step should be?
October 24th, 2023, 5:23 PM
#17
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I had a similar problem on my motorhome P37 Chevy chassis with 7.4L. Ended up replacing the distributor. May have been able to reset it. Currently had a ICM failure advanced timing issue that burnt the cap. Distributor was off 2 teeth according to the mechanic but the distributor istelf still good.
October 24th, 2023, 5:42 PM
#18
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All of these problems sound very familiar. I ended up replacing the distributor. However unless you have diagnostic equipment or the proper software for a laptop, you will not be able to set the timing. So your best bet might be to take it to local mechanic with proper diagnostic equipment.
February 13th, 2024, 1:19 AM
#19
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I have the same issue. I cannot get the cam to synch up.
i got as low as -7 degrees with some farmer fudging of the hold down bolt, but it’s simply not far enough.
one tooth forward don’t start, one tooth back and it won’t start.
im leaning towards a PCM failure in the cam crank synching, but never saw this before on the vortec which does not have any distributor adjustments.
new chain and gears newer distributor, new sensors.
i got as low as -7 degrees with some farmer fudging of the hold down bolt, but it’s simply not far enough.
one tooth forward don’t start, one tooth back and it won’t start.
im leaning towards a PCM failure in the cam crank synching, but never saw this before on the vortec which does not have any distributor adjustments.
new chain and gears newer distributor, new sensors.
February 13th, 2024, 7:01 AM
#20
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I have the same issue. I cannot get the cam to synch up.
i got as low as -7 degrees with some farmer fudging of the hold down bolt, but it’s simply not far enough.
one tooth forward don’t start, one tooth back and it won’t start.
im leaning towards a PCM failure in the cam crank synching, but never saw this before on the vortec which does not have any distributor adjustments.
new chain and gears newer distributor, new sensors.
i got as low as -7 degrees with some farmer fudging of the hold down bolt, but it’s simply not far enough.
one tooth forward don’t start, one tooth back and it won’t start.
im leaning towards a PCM failure in the cam crank synching, but never saw this before on the vortec which does not have any distributor adjustments.
new chain and gears newer distributor, new sensors.