Trying to Bleed Rear Brakes and no pressure
 

hello everyone, so here is my problem.

ok so i blew out the main rear brake line and and the front res when dry. i replaced the line form the abs system all the way back to both wheel cylinders. while i was at it i changed my shoes and springs/adjusters as well.

so i have everything hooked up and ready to go and yesterday i was trying to bleed the brakes, so i had someone pumping up the brakes a couple time then i would open the passenger rear bleeder and the fluid would just slowly dribble out with no pressure to it, and the brake pedal would not go down at all.

so i close the bleeder and pumped the brakes again and nothing changed but there is alot of pressure to it.

my truck is a 1989 Silverado C2500 5.7 2WD with rear ABS

any help would be great thanks

Did you bleed the master cylinder? If not, you will be forever bleeding it from the rear bleeders.

thanks kevin.

also will i have to bleed the ABS system? becuase i have no clue on what im supposed to do with that.

quick question.

for brake line and transmission lines would it be better to use just a standard flare, or a double flare.

Double flare is on both sides of the flared end. I don't know with automotive, but double flare is always better. It won't make a difference to the B nut, just more UMPH on the the arm to flaring tool

Don't think other than the MC, auto parts store sell cheap bleeder valves for the MC, probably 2 bucks. Terms in the past such as "bench bleed" a new MC was that, you put the MC on a bench, with one hand pumped it up, the other beld off the air.

you need a 45 degree double flare. single flare will not stand up to the potential psi the sytem develops and will leak. Do not run straight lines.

if the system has a proportioning valve you will need to insert a tool to open the valve to bleed the rear brakes. The p valve, if present, is usually part of a junction block, connected to the lines out of the m/c. The junction block is silver and has a rubber plug and paper tag on the front of it.

gravity bleeding the system with the reservoir cap off will speed up the bleeding process.

I don't think you can get anything other than a dual flare tool.

thanks you guys. tech, what tool would i use on the proportioning valve?

also the front brake reservoir never went dry and i haven't done anything to them. could i get away with just bleeding the rear brake reservoir?

I ask this because im almost positive that if i try and loosen the front caliper bleeders they will probably snap right off or i might run into other problems and have to replace the calipers. and at the moment I dont have the money to replace them, but if i cant get away with doing this ill just have to wait a little while before i can buy new parts.

put some oil on the bleeder screws and let it set in before you turn them with the wrench. but you only have to bleed the circuit that went dry. but pushing fluid in the reservoir should push the air to the rear wheel cylinders.