Voltage gauge moving with turn signal
May 25th, 2015, 10:27 PM
#12
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1stGenCamaroSS
Hello,
I’m so glad I stumbled across your posting. I own a 1998 GMC Jimmy 4x4 with a 5-speed manual transmission and over 325,000 miles. Everything you described in your post has happened to my vehicle. My first occurrence was about 5 years ago. I was driving down the interstate at about 60mph, the tachometer moved erratically and then the gauge cluster lit up like a Christmas tree and the vehicle’s engine shut down. I coasted to a stop and I was able to restart with no problems. Now the problem happens maybe once or twice a month, sometimes more and then it will go for a few months without occurring. I thought at one point I traced the problem to a bad multifunction switch. When I engage my turn signal, the battery meter fluctuates. When the vehicle was new this never happened, but this started maybe 8 years ago. Once I engaged and kept the left turn signal on because I thought that was the culprit. The battery gauge began pulsating to the left and went lower and lower until the engine cut off. Sometimes when driving, I can somehow halt an engine shutdown if I catch the battery meter slowly moving to the left. I just manipulate different settings on the multifunction switch and somehow the battery gauge pops back to normal, but sometimes things are inevitable and once the battery gauge gets to a low enough number, the engine dies. I’ve been told by someone that there may be a grounding issue somewhere, but everything looks fine. Other than this problem, my vehicle, like yours, runs fine. I just replaced my alternator, but the problem remains. I own an Auto Zone gold battery.
What do you or anyone else think is the problem?
Hello,
I’m so glad I stumbled across your posting. I own a 1998 GMC Jimmy 4x4 with a 5-speed manual transmission and over 325,000 miles. Everything you described in your post has happened to my vehicle. My first occurrence was about 5 years ago. I was driving down the interstate at about 60mph, the tachometer moved erratically and then the gauge cluster lit up like a Christmas tree and the vehicle’s engine shut down. I coasted to a stop and I was able to restart with no problems. Now the problem happens maybe once or twice a month, sometimes more and then it will go for a few months without occurring. I thought at one point I traced the problem to a bad multifunction switch. When I engage my turn signal, the battery meter fluctuates. When the vehicle was new this never happened, but this started maybe 8 years ago. Once I engaged and kept the left turn signal on because I thought that was the culprit. The battery gauge began pulsating to the left and went lower and lower until the engine cut off. Sometimes when driving, I can somehow halt an engine shutdown if I catch the battery meter slowly moving to the left. I just manipulate different settings on the multifunction switch and somehow the battery gauge pops back to normal, but sometimes things are inevitable and once the battery gauge gets to a low enough number, the engine dies. I’ve been told by someone that there may be a grounding issue somewhere, but everything looks fine. Other than this problem, my vehicle, like yours, runs fine. I just replaced my alternator, but the problem remains. I own an Auto Zone gold battery.
What do you or anyone else think is the problem?
June 1st, 2016, 2:29 PM
#13
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Alternator issues
Ok I bought my 2000 Silverado and it came with two of the off brand kcs you can buy at autozone. They worked but wanted more light since they were halogen. Bought 2 more and hooked them all to 1 wire going to the alternator. Now since they have been hooked up my voltage twitches from 16 to 14. So I unhooked the lights and tried it again. Still twitches. I believe it's a ground wire. What's your thoughts ?
February 24th, 2018, 5:59 PM
#14
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Grounding guys.... Really common Chevy problem. I have added a engine to frame and a engine to chassis ground wire to my 92 3500 454 . Had all the issues, low voltage, gauge problems,
Charging issues
The ground strap wires are cheap....5.99 @ Autozone
,,
Charging issues
The ground strap wires are cheap....5.99 @ Autozone
,,
March 22nd, 2018, 12:40 PM
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Same problem on my k3500
I have the same issues New battery. 2ga ground cable. Replaced all ground straps Checked fuses and relays. Now the truck shuts off and won't start up till it sits for a few mins
Last edited by cwfor84; March 22nd, 2018 at 12:52 PM.
October 13th, 2018, 5:58 PM
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Hi all!
I am having the same issue, and while I am glad that I stumbled across this forum, I'm disappointed that nobody seems to have found the solution, or they are not sharing their fix/results once accomplished.
My 99 Chevy Suburban is showing unusual voltage drop when turn signals are applied (left or right), brake lights engaged (seldom), and even a hot key (as in ignition key). At times, when the voltage drops low enough, the engine and the power to the cluster shuts off. It may take up to 30 minutes for a restart is possible, leaving a check engine code for crank sensor no voltage or pass-code signal not received. At other times a code for other electrical failures might be popped. At any rate, I do not think any of the systems specific to each of the codes is the problem. It is either a bad ground wire (which I'm still checking), or a possible ignition switch harness failure. It might also be the Body Control Module (BCM).
I've noticed that my voltage will drop as I accelerate; the more gas pedal, the lower the drop, but then the voltage will stabilize. I also noticed the problem seems to be worse under high humidity and temperature, but on nice cool days it is not as noticeable, although a voltage drop is still present.
Both the Battery and the Alternator are fairly new, less than 8 months old. I have also inspected the ground wire on the driver-side rear next to the fuel tank. It has some fraying on it, but the ohms test looks normal. The battery to engine ground was good, as are the engine-to-frame and the frame-to-body ground straps. Unless I am missing a ground, I am at a total loss to finding the problem.
My key getting hot may seem to suggest that ignition switch itself is faulty and has a week internal contact (likely from a broken spring), and so the ignition switch box gets too hot under heavy load, until eventually the voltage drops enough to kill the engine.
Okay my fellow Chevy fans. Let's see some solutions here. Joe needs a little help.
Joe
I am having the same issue, and while I am glad that I stumbled across this forum, I'm disappointed that nobody seems to have found the solution, or they are not sharing their fix/results once accomplished.
My 99 Chevy Suburban is showing unusual voltage drop when turn signals are applied (left or right), brake lights engaged (seldom), and even a hot key (as in ignition key). At times, when the voltage drops low enough, the engine and the power to the cluster shuts off. It may take up to 30 minutes for a restart is possible, leaving a check engine code for crank sensor no voltage or pass-code signal not received. At other times a code for other electrical failures might be popped. At any rate, I do not think any of the systems specific to each of the codes is the problem. It is either a bad ground wire (which I'm still checking), or a possible ignition switch harness failure. It might also be the Body Control Module (BCM).
I've noticed that my voltage will drop as I accelerate; the more gas pedal, the lower the drop, but then the voltage will stabilize. I also noticed the problem seems to be worse under high humidity and temperature, but on nice cool days it is not as noticeable, although a voltage drop is still present.
Both the Battery and the Alternator are fairly new, less than 8 months old. I have also inspected the ground wire on the driver-side rear next to the fuel tank. It has some fraying on it, but the ohms test looks normal. The battery to engine ground was good, as are the engine-to-frame and the frame-to-body ground straps. Unless I am missing a ground, I am at a total loss to finding the problem.
My key getting hot may seem to suggest that ignition switch itself is faulty and has a week internal contact (likely from a broken spring), and so the ignition switch box gets too hot under heavy load, until eventually the voltage drops enough to kill the engine.
Okay my fellow Chevy fans. Let's see some solutions here. Joe needs a little help.
Joe
October 13th, 2018, 8:33 PM
#17
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On that truck,does it have grounds attached to frame under drivers side door,my 02 has a bunch right there,one test to do is measure voltage out of alternator, fluctuating like guage? problem is close by
February 1st, 2019, 8:18 AM
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Hi all!
I'm sorry I haven't posted my fix. So here it is.
If you recall, I had a major problem with my vehicle shutting off, gauges going bonkers, and security light flashing. I originally thought it was my anti-theft module that was causing the problem. It was not.
The fluctuating dashboard was caused by a failed ignition switch harness. I replaced the harness and that solved the problem. Check the main connection of the ignition harness under the dashboard for poor connection. It is held on by a bolt. THIS BOLT has a tendency to back out, and cause a loose connection. If unchecked, some of the wires will develop a high resistance, and you will note your key getting a little warm. It will also cause your turn signals to beat erratically, and might even cause your brake light not be as bright. That's what was causing my voltage issues.
The vehicle shut off was a separate issue. Turns out my fuel pump relay was getting hot because my fuel filter was clogging. I replaced the fuel filter and that helped for a while, but the relay was still getting hot and turning black. I was going to replace my fuel pump (a very expensive part), and I'm so glad I didn't. Turns out, the relay circuit tab in the fuse box was bent inwards from time and wear. The weak connection was causing the relay to get hot and switch off. I believe it was pin 85 but don't quote me. Pop off your fuel pump relay and check all 5 holes for the little tabs. If any of them are bent inwards from time, your relay is likely intermittent and getting too hot from high resistance caused by a poor connection. You will notice this poor connection even more on very humid days. If your relay is getting very very hot to the point of discoloring the relay, chances are you have a poor connection on one or more of the relay prongs caused by a worn fuse box assembly.
Joe
I'm sorry I haven't posted my fix. So here it is.
If you recall, I had a major problem with my vehicle shutting off, gauges going bonkers, and security light flashing. I originally thought it was my anti-theft module that was causing the problem. It was not.
The fluctuating dashboard was caused by a failed ignition switch harness. I replaced the harness and that solved the problem. Check the main connection of the ignition harness under the dashboard for poor connection. It is held on by a bolt. THIS BOLT has a tendency to back out, and cause a loose connection. If unchecked, some of the wires will develop a high resistance, and you will note your key getting a little warm. It will also cause your turn signals to beat erratically, and might even cause your brake light not be as bright. That's what was causing my voltage issues.
The vehicle shut off was a separate issue. Turns out my fuel pump relay was getting hot because my fuel filter was clogging. I replaced the fuel filter and that helped for a while, but the relay was still getting hot and turning black. I was going to replace my fuel pump (a very expensive part), and I'm so glad I didn't. Turns out, the relay circuit tab in the fuse box was bent inwards from time and wear. The weak connection was causing the relay to get hot and switch off. I believe it was pin 85 but don't quote me. Pop off your fuel pump relay and check all 5 holes for the little tabs. If any of them are bent inwards from time, your relay is likely intermittent and getting too hot from high resistance caused by a poor connection. You will notice this poor connection even more on very humid days. If your relay is getting very very hot to the point of discoloring the relay, chances are you have a poor connection on one or more of the relay prongs caused by a worn fuse box assembly.
Joe
July 15th, 2019, 5:42 PM
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Needle swings back an forth
Skip the brush. First thing first. Can you get ahold of a battery charger for a day. If yes then disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the charger. Your want a small charger because the larger ones only burn your battery up. One around 10 to 15 amps will work fine. Take note of where the needle starts at. !!!! 1/2 that amount generally will mean charged. But I like to see just how fully I can charge the battery. Hmm if you get down to the point of 0 then you have a great battery. If the charger sits at say 3 or 2 then your battery showing its age and indicates a failing battery cell. . next with the battery charged turn sign on then turn the turn single on note the clicking. Now start engine. Does it speed up or slow down your want to connect a voteage meter to the battery while running to see how much voteage you alternator is producing. If it's going bad and can't keep up with the draw from the turn signals it will swing towards your left the negative side. Hmm replace the alternator. But also bear in mind that a new alternator should also have a new battery. If your old battery can't hold a charge over night then you need a new one I always get the heaviest battery that I can fit into the car. They seem to out last the cheaper batteries.
