This thread was helpful. As I have a 2004 Silverado with the same low pedal problems. I have used a pressure bleeder, the foot method, and I do have brakes when driving. Just not a good pedal. GM ABS system sucks. And by spending so much time under the truck, I now have a good view of just how crappy GM trucks really are. This truck was given to me. I wouldn't buy one with my own money. It's pretty darn disgraceful at how an American company treats customers. We should stop buying their junk and face the facts. Toyota is far more American than Ford or GM. At least they finally fully owned up to their recalls and did what no other American company would do. But I say this. Where there are profit seekers, there is corruption. There just seems to be far more of it at GM. Can you spell BAILOUT boys and girls?

Toyota does make good cars but there truck line is crap. I have not seen one foreign truck worth buying. the big 3 make the best trucks globally.


if you perform an automated system bleed your pedal with firm up.


if that what you think...you can't bleed the system so the abs is crap?

I have an issue with a 77 GMC 6500. The owner blew the brake lines to the driver's side rear wheel and they clamped it off and kept driving on it. They brought it in needing lines put on, well, when the new lines got put on a wheel cylinder blew (replaced it). When the pedal gets pushed down it goes all the way to the floor, the second time it goes to about 2 inches off the floor, and the third time it is above the gas pedal and solid. When we bleed the brakes in the rear we might get some air out of the lines and other times we get straight fluid. We have been working on this problem for the last 12 days and are stumped.

Sean, I'm no pro....THAT is for sure...
My experience is with MY truck...and some older vehicles..
If you have a soft pedal, you have air in your lines somewhere..that's for SURE...probably EVERYWHERE!
I have ALWAYS been told, bleed starting at the furthest from the master cylinder, (left/passenger rear) and work your way closer.
This was always done with two people....now, after using one, I would recommend borrowing a vacuum pump from one of the parts places...like Auto Zone or whatever...
SO MUCH EASIER!!! (I bought one because theirs was already lent out....STILL worth it!!! Especially if there's a stupid ABS pump involved)
I wish you could omit that crap! I can't stand ABS!!!
Just keep on pulling on it, even if you stop getting bubbles...just to be sure..on EACH corner...at least 10 or so extra strokes after you get a clear line..fluid is cheaper than your time/having to do this $hit again!
Pick up at least a quart of fluid at the same time...at LEAST...probably 2....you can always take it back. (be SURE to top the master cyl off after every corner...or if it's bad, even MORE often..) Otherwise, you'll be starting over again, if you run it dry!
Use a box end wrench on the bleeders....you'll round them off!!! They WILL be rusted! Or, buy some new ones, and replace them all as you go...BEFORE you start the process......they're cheap..
Just this shade tree mechanic's opinion....your mileage MAY vary.. ;)
Good luck!!

I removed and installed all the forward brake lines without jacking the cab, except for 1. The front right brake line which runs from the ABS modulator mid cabin under the drivers seat along the leftside frame and then crossing over at the power steering gear box to the right side frame to the brake line support mount for the F R Brake.


This tasking requires two persons knowledgeable about pipe bending and flexing to prevent kinking. I have two compression fittings on the ready if the line cannot be fed through the desired location but refuse to use them unless absolutely necessary. keeping the tubing integrity without additional joints assures a leak free future.


My question is more about compression strength. The tubing is rated at 9,000 psi. (the stainless steel version is rated at 4800 psi) If you have a vehicle that is loaded at 12,000 pounds max, and apply max pedal in an emergency situation, would the compression fitting hold under the pressure?

the proper compression fitting flare nuts and unions will hold more osi than the system will develop under any circumstance. a rusted old brake line will burst before the nut or union will leak. just make well formed flares with the tubing.

i have an 04 chevy extcab that ive gotta replace the lines in. is the dorman lines even worth it or should i just go ahead and order classic tubes? gonna be doing this outside and its gonna be a solo job. which ones would be best (eaiser too)?