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1997 GMC Suburban K2500 Alignment issues

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Old October 9th, 2017, 3:08 PM
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Default 1997 GMC Suburban K2500 Alignment issues

I posted this in General Tech, but I figured I'd see if anyone could help me here. Thanks!

So, I'm lost. My truck will want to turn right all the time, you have to hold it on the road. Highway, low speed, doesn't matter. I've replaced the upper ball joints, upper control arm bushings, Pitman arm, idler arm, steering box, calipers, pads, rotors, steering stabilizer and front shocks. Checked the lower ball joints and wheel bearings but they are free and have no play. Had it aligned twice by Merchants. The guy was cool, he brought me in and showed me the machine and worked with me. He let me drive it after everything was done and we tried again but he was even lost and apologized. On the machine it was perfect. On the road not so much. I bought new Cooper Discover A/T's and some Dick Cepeks recently but nothing changed after the upgrade. Went with a bigger tire but the issue persisted after the change.

So the only things I haven't changed are the lower ball joints, inner / outer tie rods, wheel bearings, and ????. I even went as far as to park my truck on flat ground and measured the height of the front fenders and re-adjusted the torsion bars to match everything up hoping for some improvement.

Its very squirrelly at highway speed. The larger tires seemed to have amplified the issue. Wanders fairly badly now.

any help will be much appreciated
Old October 14th, 2017, 7:04 AM
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Okay guys, I believe I figured the issue out last night. 🙏 My new rotor on the passenger side was warping. So when the truck sat at Merchants to get aligned it was cold. We drove it in, lifted it, no issues.....wheels spin free. Well after driving last night I pulled it in the shop and lifted the passenger side and it was rock solid. I was able to get it free but only about a quarter turn back and forth. 10 minutes later it was free again, when cooled down but now I could see where the issue was. The rotor was only showing itself after being hot. I threw a new rotor on last night. Looks and feels great. We will see today when I drive to ball practice. 🤞🏻
Old October 14th, 2017, 10:07 AM
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If that doesn't work, I would check the brake hose on that caliper to see if the inner lining has decayed to the point that it's acting as a check valve so that when you apply the brake the caliper won't release it.
Old October 15th, 2017, 7:20 AM
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Well back to the drawing board....brakes are golden now, torsion bars are dead on accurate, tire pressure is correct, I'll keep digging.

Right when I let go of the wheel it turns right 3"-4". Killin me! I've been managing this long but I was hoping to get lucky
Old October 15th, 2017, 7:42 AM
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To clarify, on the bad rotor, the caliper wasn't engaged when I parked it. I was able to turn the tire back and forth freely but only about a quarter turn and thats when rotor hit the caliper.....couldn't budge after that so that's where I got the rotor was warped, you could actually see it at first. The brake lines are a good thought, but I haven't seen the caliper lock up yet......I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it. As of now I drove 22 miles yesterday got back, lifted the truck and both fronts tires are free spinning. Double checked air pressure too.
Old October 24th, 2017, 8:28 AM
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Okay, so I'm going to throw some money at it and redo the tie rods and the lower ball joints. I found no issues with either but they are old and maybe when I pull it apart I'll find that they're messed up. Fingers crossed. The inner and outer tie rods are only $30 at Rock Auto after shipping and that's AC Delco. I just picked up Moog lower ball joints so we'll see after that. If that doesn't do it, I'm just going to spend the $600 and swap to a solid axle and say to hell with it. LOL.




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