2005 Yukon Denali XL AWD thread
Replaced rear pads and had one rear rotor turned. Free exchange of Wagner OEX975 pads through O'Reilly lifetime. Rear right looked fine, as pads were replaced 20K ago and right rear rotor turned then; maybe because Mrs. Cusser tows a horse with this. Front pads also looked great. Mrs. Cusser will reward me.
Yukon goes to mechanic Monday for intermittent blower fan running and occasional failure of blower motor too shut off; blower resistor is too expensive and complicated wiring, not just a plug in, for me to guess and throw parts at.... I'll ask mechanic about the oil pressure sender and the screen underneath it, and the occasional "oil pressure low" warning she gets that does disappear (oil pressure gauge works fine). |
why machine just one rotor?...your in there...give the other side a skim to ensure there is no runout.
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Right rear rotor was turned 20K ago, looked fine now. Damm 18mm socket needed to remove the rotor, thanks GM !!! Don't tell me that this wasn't done intentionally to dissuade home mechanics.
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i reason it like this. I have no test data to prove this is fact. I prefer to keep my rotors near the same thickness...they will dissipate heat the same...maintaining the same co-efficient of friction... when they are worked hard...you want balanced braking
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Originally Posted by Cusser
(Post 429382)
Yukon goes to mechanic Monday for intermittent blower fan running and occasional failure of blower motor too shut off; blower resistor is too expensive and complicated wiring, not just a plug in, for me to guess and throw parts at....
When I spun the factory blower motor, it did not spin as long as it should have.
Originally Posted by Cusser
(Post 429382)
I'll ask mechanic about the oil pressure sender and the screen underneath it, and the occasional "oil pressure low" warning she gets that does disappear (oil pressure gauge works fine).
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