2010 Tahoe electrical issues?
 

I have a 2010 Chevy Tahoe, yesterday I was driving and the gauges just went off, radio turned off, heater shut off, blinkers didn't work, power door loks didn't work, and all my warnings were flashing (service airbag, check tire pressure sensor, park assist off) and a few other things. The truck didn't shut down, it still ran fine. Got home turned it off, waited a few minutes and tried to start it back and it wouldn't. Waited about and hour and it started up fine. This morning, it was fine, gauges worked, radio worked, everything was good, for about a quarter mile, then it did the same thing, it all shut down except for the engine. I hit a bump in the road about 15 min afer it all shut off and everything came back on. Had the battery, alternator, and computer checked...all were good. Battery connections were not loose....I am at a loss as to what it is. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.

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I am sorry you are experiencing this issue. Would you please PM me your VIN, so I may look into this further for you? Do you have any aftermarket products installed on the vehicle?

Louis
GM Customer Service

Sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere. Not only check the battery connections at the battery but also check thew cables at the other end. The ground to the frame and body also have to make a good connection.

Sounds like an issue with the BCM. But it is good to check out your grounds. There is two grounds under the drivers door on the frame. Take the bolts out, clean the area on the frame & any possible corrosion. after you put the bolts bake in protect it with some rubberized undercoating. Hope this helps you out.

Was thinking this may be my problem also. Thank you!:)

Read thru this:

https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Chevrol...pos=3&at_tot=4

I'll add that if the cable repair doesn't fix the issue do not discount the battery being bad. In the last 15 yrs. I've had 3 batteries with internal connector failures. 2 Autozone ones and one DieHard in 2 different vehicles. Just smacking the battery or slamming the hood they would reconnect and crank up fine. I was at the point when it first happened I was looking skyward to see if a UFO was passing over LOL. Found it by turning headlights on and messing with clean terminals out of frustration and seeing lights come on.
Carry the battery into the store and they would pass a load test after being jostled around.
Just relating my experiences.

If you do get a battery, spring for a good AGM battery. Those handle under hood temps and vibes better.