Air conditioner a/c I wanna cry
September 11th, 2013, 1:56 PM
#11
Holy crap, just dumped 2 cans in?? Hmm...
We had the same noise on our 2002 Burb, and around 90k the ac started making that noise. If we turned it off, waited, turned it on, would usually be fine. We took it to the dealer still under warranty and they replaced the ac compressor. Tried charging us for installing the belt! Like $150! Fought them about it, and won.
Strange tho, had a similar incident happen 2 weeks ago on the 07. Started up, headed for the lake, front cold, rear, hot-warm. Ran the temp up front and in back up to 90 and then back down to 60. Didnt work. Shut the car off. Started up again, ran to 90 then 60. Works...
We had the same noise on our 2002 Burb, and around 90k the ac started making that noise. If we turned it off, waited, turned it on, would usually be fine. We took it to the dealer still under warranty and they replaced the ac compressor. Tried charging us for installing the belt! Like $150! Fought them about it, and won.
Strange tho, had a similar incident happen 2 weeks ago on the 07. Started up, headed for the lake, front cold, rear, hot-warm. Ran the temp up front and in back up to 90 and then back down to 60. Didnt work. Shut the car off. Started up again, ran to 90 then 60. Works...
September 11th, 2013, 3:41 PM
#12
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Everything off, pop hood removed fuse for at least 10 seconds, put it back in, turn key on ignition on no crank ( but I think engine running also works) wait 40 seconds ( but I'd give it a good minute or two) then it should be done... you may even hear the baffles and doors moving
I have posted the procedure in here somewhere so you may be able to search for it...but the above is the nut shell of it....
The procedure is really for a blend door malfunction, BUT it can appear as that the AC is blowing hot when its really the blend door being out of whack (technical term)
I have posted the procedure in here somewhere so you may be able to search for it...but the above is the nut shell of it....
The procedure is really for a blend door malfunction, BUT it can appear as that the AC is blowing hot when its really the blend door being out of whack (technical term)
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8Fx...p=docslist_api
September 11th, 2013, 6:41 PM
#14
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yea, i see,now i know not to ever trust those little things for like 9$.
Anyway, i drained the LOW side by opening the valve and letting it just spray out.i didn stop until the LOW side reading was approx 10-15psi, and the high was i think 0!!
Fr a while i seen nothing but green liquid spitting out, till about45-50 psi, then i couldn't see the freon any more. I even put a paper towel on the hose to see if my eyes deceived me, but, it was just air coming out. so when it got to like 10ish psi, i dropped 1 can of the synthetic R134 in there and the final results after 1 can of freon is what u see below.
A/c is blowing cool when i started driving, I had front and back on 60 and fan speed at 4. For a second i could feel like a cold front of maybe 600 coming in, but then it would feel like 73-75 degrees, ANd just continually alternate.
So its much cooler than outside, so i would think the compressor has to be working, if its doing all that. Maybe i would have to get the ac system completely flushed now. I don't know. But like i said, omw home it felt like a 73-75degree and a 60 degree was trying to come into the vents at the same time. Sounds stupid to say, but that's the best way i can explain it. Tomorrow, ill start the truck and see if i hear the noise. What y'all think?
Anyway, i drained the LOW side by opening the valve and letting it just spray out.i didn stop until the LOW side reading was approx 10-15psi, and the high was i think 0!!
Fr a while i seen nothing but green liquid spitting out, till about45-50 psi, then i couldn't see the freon any more. I even put a paper towel on the hose to see if my eyes deceived me, but, it was just air coming out. so when it got to like 10ish psi, i dropped 1 can of the synthetic R134 in there and the final results after 1 can of freon is what u see below.
A/c is blowing cool when i started driving, I had front and back on 60 and fan speed at 4. For a second i could feel like a cold front of maybe 600 coming in, but then it would feel like 73-75 degrees, ANd just continually alternate.
So its much cooler than outside, so i would think the compressor has to be working, if its doing all that. Maybe i would have to get the ac system completely flushed now. I don't know. But like i said, omw home it felt like a 73-75degree and a 60 degree was trying to come into the vents at the same time. Sounds stupid to say, but that's the best way i can explain it. Tomorrow, ill start the truck and see if i hear the noise. What y'all think?
September 11th, 2013, 6:45 PM
#15
CF Junior Member
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Guess you can thank the dealer for his "expert" advice of dumping a can or two of refrigerant into the system without knowing what was really going on first. If the compressor is in fact toast, I'd buy one off eBay, swap it out yourself, take it to a shop with a/c equipment and have them evacuate and recharge the system. I did this with a Honda I used to have and was very inexpensive compared to a dealer doing the job.
September 11th, 2013, 6:57 PM
#16
Administrator
Romeo5k First off, I want to thank you for taking the time to share and discuss what you were doing in the forum, right or wrong , smart or dumb, as you are learning and others are learning from you (and others as well that share in this thread) 
I think you may have let a bit too much out... but as 73shark stated you were risking trashing the compressor (if it wasn't already) by having it over charged... I'd let it stabilize and then revisit adding a bit back... the green stuff you were seeing is the dye that is added at the factory to aide in finding leaks...
you use an ultraviolet light to make the dye glow... see -> https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...l-307-a-38047/
From what I have read the general rule of thumb is the high side should be 2x the outside temp + 50 and I think the the low should be in the 25-30 psi range.
Now I will also share that you are probably going to take some forum heat/beating for releasing the Freon to the atmosphere and not properly recovering it...
I think you may have let a bit too much out... but as 73shark stated you were risking trashing the compressor (if it wasn't already) by having it over charged... I'd let it stabilize and then revisit adding a bit back... the green stuff you were seeing is the dye that is added at the factory to aide in finding leaks...
you use an ultraviolet light to make the dye glow... see -> https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...l-307-a-38047/
From what I have read the general rule of thumb is the high side should be 2x the outside temp + 50 and I think the the low should be in the 25-30 psi range.
Now I will also share that you are probably going to take some forum heat/beating for releasing the Freon to the atmosphere and not properly recovering it...
Last edited by in2pro; September 11th, 2013 at 7:03 PM. Reason: corrected speeling
September 11th, 2013, 7:00 PM
#17
Administrator
Guess you can thank the dealer for his "expert" advice of dumping a can or two of refrigerant into the system without knowing what was really going on first. If the compressor is in fact toast, I'd buy one off eBay, swap it out yourself, take it to a shop with a/c equipment and have them evacuate and recharge the system. I did this with a Honda I used to have and was very inexpensive compared to a dealer doing the job.
but hopefully you wont need it
September 11th, 2013, 8:10 PM
#18
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
In2pro.. I didn't know there was a way to recover it or there was a proper and better way of releasing it.. guess ill have to youtube for further education. But when I saw those numbers.. I released it there.. I didn't wanna even drive home.
Next question I do have since I've done all these changes and unnecesary changes, do I need to remove the hvac fuse again? Or just drive it around a few hours/days ?
And yeah, I pray compressor doesnt fail on me.
Next question I do have since I've done all these changes and unnecesary changes, do I need to remove the hvac fuse again? Or just drive it around a few hours/days ?
And yeah, I pray compressor doesnt fail on me.
September 11th, 2013, 8:18 PM
#19
Administrator
If you replace the compressor, you should also replace the dryer in case the old compressor shed any metal. Also make sure you add the prescribed amount of A/C oil to both components.
With the system on Max/Recirc, vent temp should approach 45*F-50*F. Unless you have a large fan, you need to do this check on the road to ensure good air flow across the condensor. Two reasons the temperature might be changing are 1) the High or Low pressure switches are turning the compressor off and 2) the blend door is changing from cold to hot and back.
An easy way to capture freon is to connect the low side to an empty freon tank that's sitting in ice water. This is w/ engine off. The stuff is too expensive to vent off. A/C shops have equipment that recovers the freon, cleans it, and reuses it.
The same folks that will criticize you for releasing the R-134a also are for protecting endangered species and wind power. Yet the windmills killed about 50 eagles last year. Read last month that R134a may be replaced soon. Guess the Dupont patents are expiring again. FWIW, there's evidence that the ozone hole problem was a fraud.
With the system on Max/Recirc, vent temp should approach 45*F-50*F. Unless you have a large fan, you need to do this check on the road to ensure good air flow across the condensor. Two reasons the temperature might be changing are 1) the High or Low pressure switches are turning the compressor off and 2) the blend door is changing from cold to hot and back.
An easy way to capture freon is to connect the low side to an empty freon tank that's sitting in ice water. This is w/ engine off. The stuff is too expensive to vent off. A/C shops have equipment that recovers the freon, cleans it, and reuses it.
The same folks that will criticize you for releasing the R-134a also are for protecting endangered species and wind power. Yet the windmills killed about 50 eagles last year.
Read last month that R134a may be replaced soon. Guess the Dupont patents are expiring again. FWIW, there's evidence that the ozone hole problem was a fraud.
Last edited by 73shark; September 11th, 2013 at 8:30 PM.
September 11th, 2013, 8:39 PM
#20
Super Moderator
Professional Mechanic
Professional Mechanic
What year is your truck?
I very seriously doubt the dealer or any reputable shop told you to just dump 2 cans in it. If someone did tell you that then they had no clue and should find a new job. There is no "proper" way to charge a system with out seeing high side and low side reading. You may have never had a low charge at all. It could have been something different. Pulling the fuse as stated above only forces the system to recalibrate the air doors it will have no effect on your problem. If I am reading your post correctly you currently have a Low side of 10-15psi and a High side of 0, if this is correct then the system is now empty. The reading you need to look at and post is right before the compressor cycles off. Raise the rpm to 1800ish get the reading and post. At this point in time you likely will need to take it to a shop to DER the system (drain, evacuate, recharge).
I very seriously doubt the dealer or any reputable shop told you to just dump 2 cans in it. If someone did tell you that then they had no clue and should find a new job. There is no "proper" way to charge a system with out seeing high side and low side reading. You may have never had a low charge at all. It could have been something different. Pulling the fuse as stated above only forces the system to recalibrate the air doors it will have no effect on your problem. If I am reading your post correctly you currently have a Low side of 10-15psi and a High side of 0, if this is correct then the system is now empty. The reading you need to look at and post is right before the compressor cycles off. Raise the rpm to 1800ish get the reading and post. At this point in time you likely will need to take it to a shop to DER the system (drain, evacuate, recharge).