I can not find the leak on my A/C 2002 suburban
2002 suburban 3.5
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Refrigerant leak detection can be tricky. Typically a combination of visual observation, UV dye/UV light & goggles, electronic sniffer, even soap bubbles. If you have rear AC, then more places to leak.
In other words, I recommend having a real AC shop diagnose the leak (specify that); then you can determine if you have the skills and equipment to repair it yourself. |
the only thing a diyer can do is charge the system and spray dishsoap/water solution on all the parts...hopefully, the leak is big enough to detect bubbles.
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I myself also have UV light & goggles and an electronic sniff tool.
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AC leak
Originally Posted by Gustheiceman
(Post 380122)
2002 suburban 3.5
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You mean the high side service valve? The cap really does the real part of the seal there.
Or do you mean the rear expansion valve (for the rear AC) ??? That's tough to access. |
The Schrader valve, not the cap, is what maintains the pressure in the A/C system. Saying the cap does it is like saying the plastic cap on your valve stems is what holds the pressure in your tires.
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Originally Posted by 73shark
(Post 402444)
The Schrader valve, not the cap, is what maintains the pressure in the A/C system.
And most AC shraeder type valves are replaceable, and many can be switched out without losing refrigerant using the correct special tool. I haven't done this, but the experts say this, and I've seen such tools.
Originally Posted by 73shark
(Post 402444)
Saying the cap does it is like saying the plastic cap on your valve stems is what holds the pressure in your tires.
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Not an AC expert by any means but I'm pretty sure that those dinky little plastic caps on the R134a systems will not withstand 300 PSI. The nice metal caps with o-ring seals on R12 systems may prevent a leaky Schrader valve from leaking.
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My 2007 Tahoe had a leak at the low side charge port, the schrader valve must have gotten debris in it when I checked the charge. I was going to replace the valve BUT the 07's do not have a replaceable one WITHOUT evacuating the system.
I ended up putting some PAG oil in the valve and attaching the gauge set and I guess that allowed what ever was holding it open to get displaced as it has done fine since. This is probably a case of leave well enough alone, if it ain't broke don't fix it.. (I thought I was being pro-active by checking it, turns out I created the problem that didn't previously exists) :rolleyes: |
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