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+1 on the Techron... its what I have been using... is it working? IDK but its readily available at Sam's by a 4 pack case so I have been using it...
As for aircraft speak.. all I can claim is that my brother was a mechanic / crew chief for F4 Phantoms out at Bergstrom AFB here in ATX...:) |
you can find the chevron stuff online and i heard really good things about bg 44k as well. also online ebay about $15 or so and also on amazon but a bit more expensive. i would change those plugs as well if they haven't been done recently
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Originally Posted by in2pro
(Post 260315)
+1 on the Techron... its what I have been using... is it working? IDK but its readily available at Sam's by a 4 pack case so I have been using it... Wished my Sam's carried it. Have to check online . . .
As for aircraft speak.. all I can claim is that my brother was a mechanic / crew chief for F4 Phantoms out at Bergstrom AFB here in ATX...:) |
I'll have to double check the autozone or O'Reillys. Not sure if they carry it out here (N. Texas).
Yeah, I love the A-10 too. I've been crewing them for over 11 years. The F-4 is also another great aircraft that I love. I'm glad they started to use F-16's for target drones...maybe they'll stop shooting down the F-4's |
So, I've replaced the vacuum booster and the master cylinder back in November due to a bad (leaking) master cylinder. Since then, I've also done the Techron treatment and replaced the spark plugs. Still a slight miss at idle. And had the engine die again after a hard stop. I duplicated it again while in idle. It'll start right back up again like nothing happened. I'm suspecting something vacuum related as the vacuum booster is relatively new. I'm also thinking that the slight miss/low idle may related.
Still haven't figured out why I cannot connect to the OBD-II. The OBD-II shows power, but doesn't connect. I'm thinking I may need to replace the Engine Computer. Although, I would think the engine wouldn't run if the computer was bad. Fortunately, a reman computer is only about $100. With a new computer, would I need to get the stereo security reprogrammed at a dealership? Any input? |
Stall when braking
Originally Posted by warthogcrewchief
(Post 260100)
The make/model/year is a '97 C1500 Suburban 2X4, 5.7L Vortec. I thought it was in my signature line...I'll have to double check that.
When I was doing some maintenance test runs (while the brake booster was bad) I would slam on the brakes from about 30-35 MPH and the engine would die just after I came to a complete stop. I would then place it in neutral to restart with no problems during restart. To verify it wasn't a tranmission problem, I was able to duplicate the same results while in neutral. While doing another maintenence run/emergency stop after I replaced the booster and master cylinder, I have only had it happen once more out of five stops. The primary fuse/relay box is loose (located near the firewall,driver's side, under the hood). The inboard side is bolted in and the outboard side plastic retention tab is broken/missing. I suspect that might be an issue. I have acquired (legally) a new/used fuse/relay box mount from a parts truck. I plan on changing that out this week. I'm also planning on doing what Joe in NY suggested: fuel treatment, spark plugs, and cleaning the throttle body & MAS. A little voice in the back of my head is saying to check the vaccum lines. Mine was EGR.. Exact symptoms as yours |
Thanks for the update. I fixed the initial problem 3 years ago.... it turned out to the be the brake booster. The OBDII issue was due to a faulty ABS module. As far as the engine miss code (can't remember what it was as it was 3 years ago), I replaced the spider valve and the plenum cover gasket, but it still acted up. At the request of my wife, I sold the vehicle. I only paid $1200 for the truck, and sold it for a $1000, so it wasn't bad considering I had it for 2-3 years with 215K total on the odometer. Hopefully the new owner enjoyed (who had five kids) was able to quickly fix it and use it for needs.
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2008 Chev Tahoe - Engine Stall/Rough Run when Braking
[QUOTE=warthogcrewchief;339328]Thanks for the update. I fixed the initial problem 3 years ago.... it turned out to the be the brake booster. The OBDII issue was due to a faulty ABS module. As far as the engine miss code (can't remember what it was as it was 3 years ago), I replaced the spider valve and the plenum cover gasket, but it still acted up. At the request of my wife, I sold the vehicle. I only paid $1200 for the truck, and sold it for a $1000, so it wasn't bad considering I had it for 2-3 years with 215K total on the odometer. Hopefully the new owner enjoyed (who had five kids) was able to quickly fix it and use it for needs.So my Tahoe gets up and speed no problem however when applying the break it seems to idle really rough and vibrates the whole truck. Any ideas |
Originally Posted by Gavin Lang
(Post 399088)
So my Tahoe gets up and speed no problem however when applying the break it seems to idle really rough and vibrates the whole truck. Any ideas Welcome to the forum, that sounds more like warped brake rotors to me... |
Stalling out
Here's my thoughts.i have a 96 1 door and the fuel tank is much smaller than the 4 door and isn't baffled .the problem with that is with a quarter tank or lower all the fuel runs forward and it does everytime.see if yours still stalls with a full tank .I bet not
Originally Posted by warthogcrewchief
(Post 260100)
The make/model/year is a '97 C1500 Suburban 2X4, 5.7L Vortec. I thought it was in my signature line...I'll have to double check that.
When I was doing some maintenance test runs (while the brake booster was bad) I would slam on the brakes from about 30-35 MPH and the engine would die just after I came to a complete stop. I would then place it in neutral to restart with no problems during restart. To verify it wasn't a tranmission problem, I was able to duplicate the same results while in neutral. While doing another maintenence run/emergency stop after I replaced the booster and master cylinder, I have only had it happen once more out of five stops. The primary fuse/relay box is loose (located near the firewall,driver's side, under the hood). The inboard side is bolted in and the outboard side plastic retention tab is broken/missing. I suspect that might be an issue. I have acquired (legally) a new/used fuse/relay box mount from a parts truck. I plan on changing that out this week. I'm also planning on doing what Joe in NY suggested: fuel treatment, spark plugs, and cleaning the throttle body & MAS. A little voice in the back of my head is saying to check the vaccum lines. |
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