I had a low oil pressure warning on my 2002 Suburban. I checked the oil level and it was fine. It was due an oil change so I decide to do that and see if it might cure the oil pressure problem. I lifted the hood and removed the oil refill cap. Then I went under the car and removed the plug from the drain pan and drained the oil. I then removed the old oil filter and installed a new one. I put the plug back in the oil pan and poured about 4 quarts of oil in. Then I checked the oil to find out it was way to full of oil. I ran the engine for a while and rechecked. It is still way to full. I poured the old oil I had drained out into a 1 gallon bottle and their appears to be about 3 quarts of oil there instead of the 5 quarts I would expect. I have never had an issue with draining the oil from a vehicle. Anyone have an idea why the oil would not have drained completely out. By the way, the oil pressure problem seems to have gone away.

Does the oil on the dipstick look completely new or does it look like it has some old oil mixed in with it?

Maybe some sludge clogged up the drain hole would be another possibility.

And where you parked a level surface, flat doesn't always mean level....

I had a Similar oil pressure problem.
We bought a 2008 Suburban 1500 5.3 AFM (active fuel management), 4 wheel drive, with 183k this past December from a private seller; we met at a local Walgreens (mistake #1), and then I discovered a few days later that I had oil pressure problems.
The first problem was that when the temperature dropped below 10 degrees (I live in Minnesota) the pressure would drop to 0 when I would start the vehicle in the morning. In order to keep the pressure up I would need to nurse the rpm until the engine warmed up a little, then the psi would stay above 20.
The second problem was that I could not get the pressure past 40 psi no mater how high I ran the rpm, that is until the motor was completely hot. I would see the pressure slowly rise while driving on the freeway until it was finally up to 55 psi when the rpm was above 2500. This would usually take 20 minutes. At normal cruising speed the psi would run around 38.
I also had a pretty loud lifter until the motor was heated completely and then it would quite down.

Steps followed to fix the problem:
1) Researched on the internet (mistake #2).
2) Purchased an oil pressure sensor and AFM filter srceen.
3) Researched Alldata and realized my problem wasn't likely to be caused by the screen or oil pressure sensor (AFM worked fine).
4) Replaced screen and sensor anyway since I had them.
5) More research (problem not solved by step 4).
6) Purchased pickup tube o-ring and oil pan gasket and assembled tools (mistake #3).
7) Pulled the pan then realize that I never wanted to do that again so I went to the local dealer and purchesed a AFM oil pressure relief valve (located in the oil pan) for $13.
8) Replaced the o-ring, AFM valve, reinstalled the pan replaced the oil filter, added oil, started the engine (before re-installing the front differential) and watched the gauge go right to 60 psi (whew).
The oil pressure is now acting the way I would expect it to; starts out high, drops a little as the engine heats up, fluctuates with rpm. I still get a little lifter noise at first but it quiets down after a couple of minutes.

Lessons learned:
1) When buying a used GM truck (or any vehicle), always be the first to start the vehicle in the morning (ref mistake #1). The Suburban was completely heated when we test drove it so everything seemed great. I don't know if the seller purposely deceived us, I like to think not, but I will never buy a used vehicle again unless I get the chance to cold start it.
2) Research on the internet is great (ref mistake #2) but be careful, there are a lot of good intentions and a lot of bad advice. If an AFM screen is getting plugged by sludge & crud, it's doing its job, don't delete it from the system; there must be some other problem, I didn't have any sludge in my screen filter or pan.
3) Do the job once. I'm not sure if replacing the AFM valve helped but for $13 it didn't hurt and I will never need to pull the pan for this issue again (at least not on the vehicle).
4) Have the proper tools (ref mistake #3). If you decide to do this yourself and you have a 4 wheel drive, buy/rent a transmission jack or buy a transmission jack adapter for your floor jack. I used an ATV jack to drop and install the differential and it made the job so much harder. Some people lie on their backs and muscle the differential out and back into place but I'm past that age.

I hope my experience helps.

New to forum. Wife brought car home after 10 lbs. Oil pressure & lite on. No oil on stick. Oil visible in rocker cover. No oil stain on garage floor. Change not due for abt 1500 mi. Use 5-30 valvoline. Prob. Appeared suddenly put oil in. This a.m. Same thing happened. Oil pressure @ 40 lbs. Normal 60+ no noises. 180,000 mi.

oil pressure gauge shows low pressure
 

[QUOTE=Chevrolet Customer Service;179349]Subur2023, have you yet tried speaking with our Customer Assistance team about the issues you are having? They would be able to work with you and the dealership towards a resolution. If you would like I can setup a case for you. Just direct message me your contact information and I will handle it from there. I hope you are able to get this fixed


How's it going? I have a 2007 chevy tahoe LTZ. Oil pressure gauge is showing low oil pressure. I've recently had the sending unit replaced. The oil is good. When I had it replaced the mechanic told me the oil pressure was at 2 psi then I took it to the dealership and that mechanic told me it was at 35-40 psi at a idle. Long story short the problem isn't fixed and the gauge still shows low oil pressure still reads 0 and the dash tells me to stop the engine. There is crazy sounds coming from the engine. Please help

Mike,
Before throwing a lot of money at sensor replacement and/or oil pump replacement, I highly suggest that you read posts in this thread that relate to the cause of low pressure readings being from the screen before the pressure sensor being blocked with sludge and deposits.
This has 100% been the cause with my '07 Suburban (225k).
Eric Banks covers the issue in post #72 of this thread.

Hi Everyone,

I am new here, but have been a member of many different forums from motorcycles to cars and trucks.

I know i'm reviving an old thread, but i wanted to add my story. same thing happened to me. bought a used 2008 avalanche in great shape. ran perfect for a month. then i got the low oil pressure hideous beeping. next day, it seemed fine, but after a while, back to low oil pressure. checked the oil. was a qt low. so i added some, was fine. had to drive 60 miles, in stop and go traffic the next day. started it up, 40lbs, then slowly after a few miles it started to drop. the last 20 miles in stop and go traffic were excruciating with the low pressure beeping. worked, then drove 60 miles home in no traffic. could keep it at about 20 for the most part with constant driving. did all the research(how i found this thread), so i figured the sensor was bad. of course, this close to winter and a holiday(NH) getting into the shop is tough. figured i'd start with an oil change, as some of you mentioned it fixed the problem. totally figuring on having to replace the sensor soon. my guy got me in, because honestly, i didnt want to change my oil in my driveway in 25 degree cold. guess im getting old! one other point, when i called him after it started, he mentioned he just had a 2010 avalanche in for the exact same reason, changed the oil, and replaced the sensor(huge PITA), guy drove it for about 2 weeks, got serious knocking, and the engine went. hopefully that doesnt happen to mine! i have a warranty, so if the engine goes, i can get it replaced, but i dont need the down time. anyhow, back to my truck, after reading about the bad oil filters and such, i figured i would get it done(i usually change the oil and plugs when i buy a used car, but just hadnt found time to). anyhow, im 3 trips in, a total of 20 miles, and the pressure is back up to over 40 and standing strong. i have another trip into town tomorrow, about 120 mile round trip, and again on saturday. i absolutely hate when im researching an isue, and the OP never comes back to say if he fixed it or not, so i figured i'd add something to this one. i'll report back on sunday and let you guys know if the oil change has made the difference, as it has for others.

FRAM Filters
 

There is a youtube warning video on testing various oil filters including FRAM oil filters - They Are JUNK! (unknown if I can link in these forums but search"

Who Makes The Best & Worst Oil Filter Made Today -13 Oil Filters Compared - Fram, Mobil 1, Wix

")

Just bought a 05 LT Suburban with 218k and notice a littly lifter tapping noise on startup for 30sec in Northern MN.
Oil pressure @ 40# idle. I'll have to watch it at higher rpms as only have 200m on 1 trip bringing it home.
After joining forums here and reading this, I'll be looking...
My 04 impala get 2 oil changes/yr (each 15k miles- 95% highway) but I always been running Mobil 1 Full Syn or Amsoil.
After putting on 300k miles now, still purrs like a kitten and only 3qts / 15,000m between changes - got to love Syn oils :-)

Ticking noise