1.yes they are running normal
2.that is correct no air comes out of the rear vents so I assume the blower is not coming on
3.yes it has a front and rear overhead console controls . I will put them in the positions and there's no function of any kind .

Awesome. Thx
Please answer these three steps.
1. What's the level of your mechanical/electrical ability.
2. Find your Rear AC(blower) fuse and test if it's ok.
3. See if there's power(12VDC) on both sides of fuse

1. I don't understand this question
2 . Where is that located at ? Under the hood or side panel by the passenger side dashboard
3. How would I check that ? Do I need a digital volt machine

I can tell from your answers that it's going to be tough trying to fix your AC issues DIY because you do not seem to have any idea
of basic electrical or mechanical know how.... no insult intended. Try searching online for the location of the fuse box for your car and find out what fuse # controls the Rear AC Blower.
My car is a Suburban not a Tahoe but the ACs are very similar and yes you will need a VOM(volt ohm meter--- a needle meter works fine) to test the fuse and electrical circuits.

i do know there's a fuse box under the hood and the side panel by the dash . I'll look into it tomorrow. I saw a video where there's some kind of connection by the driver side ebrake that usually fries and kills the rear ac. There are two orange cables that are connected to them and this person spliced them n tied them together and his rear ac worked so he ran it direct .

OK.
1. Find the fuse for the Rear AC and check it if it's good
2. Check both sides of the fuse if its got power(12vdc)
3. if it does then check both wires you mentioned above if its got power
Do these checks and let me know what you find then we will move on to the next steps

Wondering if someone may be able to help me with the next step. Here’s where I am: 2000 Tahoe with automatic Front/Rear AC. Unit has two overhead controls: one front seat, one rear seat. Blower stopped working recently. Pulled rear panel, checked voltage with VOM. Have 14v at Orange/Black wire coming into the blower regulator. Voltage to smaller center wire stays consistent, whether the fan control is on low or high - no change based on controls. Reads about 1v on the Purple/Black wires that go into the blower housing. Blower runs if I provide 12v to it. Trying to determine how to isolate whether it is a control or motor regulator issue, or something else I haven’t checked. Thank you for your help!

Newbie set to reply if this account works. Stand by...

OK, account is established. My reply to the above issue might be moot if the problem has been resolved.

I recently lost my rear blower meaning no flow was coming through the headliner vents. Assuming all of your fuses are good we will proceed to step one...

Step one:
After researching many threads on this issue I pulled back the R-Rear panel to expose the blower and resistor module (many threads suggest to replace the RM as a shotgun but at $200 I ain't gonna do it). My first goal was to establish that the ORANGE WIRE on the resistor module was HOT by using a TEST LIGHT and NOT a voltmeter. (Voltmeters consume very little current and may give a false sense of proper continuity.) My ORANGE WIRE had NO voltage when I probed it with a TEST LIGHT. The ORANGE wire should be HOT with the key off. So this means that the resistor module and blower are most likely good so we move on two step two...

Step two:
I removed the driver side kick panel by the emergency brake lever to expose a few wire connectors. The large 18-20 pin connector with the THICK ORANGE wire is the area of focus. Most of the wires in that connector are 16-18ga but the ORANGE wire is 10-12ga. My connector lugs were BURNED and made momentary contact. GM undersized the lugs so bypassing the connector is necessary.

Step three:
Cut the ORANGE WIRES on both sides of the connector and splice them together with a suitable quick connector or better yet solder them and insulate. THIS SOLVED MY ISSUE OF NO REAR AC BLOWING THROUGH THE ROOF VENTS.

I discovered this fixed by surfing around so I cannot take full credit but if you have basic skills and troubleshooting techniques this should be a simple DIY project that would cost less the $3 versus $350-$500 at a shop.

Time for a beer...

Wow - sounds like the fix I found on the Internet - and did - for a 55" Mitsubishi DLP HDTV. It had overheat warning, all 3 fans were working; Mitsubishi was aware of this issue and even extended their factory warranty a year or two, but my TV was older. The heat sensor was NOT the issue, it was resistance at the harness connector. So I cut out the connector and soldered the two wires to their corresponding ends, fixed permanently.

Good for you !!!