SWHouston

Deryll, yes on the 600 lbs IF you have a 3/4 ton Burb. If it's just a half ton, then you're at your limit as you are. Are you sure about the lbs ? You should look for "Maximum GTW". Here's a link to a Thread, and scroll down to my post #78. There's a VIN lookup link, where you can find that and some other links which may give you some interesting info. https://chevroletforum.com/forum/gen...n-26181/page2/

One other thing... I think you probably bought your Burb used ? If so, you should go to Tires at Tire Rack and do a lookup on the tires you have on it now. Many people who don't realize how heavy our Burbs are, OR, are about to sell one, put just any cheep Tire on them. You need to check the Max Load Rating for your existing tires, and or the original equipment (check the sticker on your drivers door for correct size of those).

A rule of thumb on an adequate Tire Load Rating is...
Each tire should be within a maximum 250 lbs of half the loaded weight of your vehicle.

Example...
Dry Weight.......5000 lbs
Load (1/2 ton)..1000 lbs
Total is 6000 div by 2 = 3000 lbs
So if Maximum Load Rating is between 2750 and 3000 lbs per tire, you're ok.
(the closer your are in this example to 3000 the safer you are)

When you think about how much load is placed on just two of your Tires, when hard Cornering or Breaking to the max, those numbers are quite logical.

deryll1

Hey , didn't think about that, looking at my tires, they say:
Max load single3195 lbs
Max load dual 2910 lbs
Guess I am good there, thanks for that info!!appriciate it!

SWHouston

UOO YEA, you're definitely ok with those !

But remember, no tire will keep you rolling under extreme circumstances, unless it's aired up properly. Those max load numbers, are only good when you air the tire up to it's Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure (MCIP). And, those numbers printed on the sidewall, are the Manufacturers guarantee, that you can inflate and operate that tire safely at that pressure, for it's life. Operating your Tires at the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure, is not over inflating them.

Rule of thumb is to air at or no lower than 90% of MCIP.
Example:
Tire list 44 lbs as MCIP... then 40-44 lbs is acceptable.

Will that pressure make for a firmer ride...yes, but...
Given the increase in performance and safety, it's worth it !

SWHouston

Deryll,

To follow up on your EMail, you say that your Burb is rated at 7000 lbs. The "usual" hitch weight for a flat/box trailer would be 700 lbs, which would leave you an additional 300 lbs for cargo in your Burb. BUT, until you actually do a hitch weight on the Trailer, you would have a little more or less. And more cargo weight available, given that those type trailers aren't usually fully loaded.

IF you have a Recreational Trailer, the hitch weight could be as much as 15% of it's weight. But again, actually weighing your Rig, and then knowing exactly where you're at, is the best way to go. Just in case it's Recreational, it's well worth the few bucks weighing cost, to know how you might rearrange your load, to get the most out of the rig's ability.

What I mean by that, is to reset the load in/on the Trailer, still not exceeding it's rating, but then would adjust the hitch weight to accommodate the total hitch load on your Vehicle. Also, if you own your Trailer, you can go to a competent Trailer company, and have the Axel(s) reset to accommodate your specific needs.

Example...
A friend of mine had a Recreational Trailer, who would go out for quite long periods in cold weather. The Trailer originally had two LP gas cylinders sitting on the fork of the hitch, which he increased to six. That considerably extended his ability to cook and keep the Trailer at a comfortable temperature for his family. He had the Axels reset (toward the front) to put a lesser load on his vehicle, and still didn't overload the trailer, just "adjusted" things. Some trailers have pre-drilled holes for repositioning the Axel by the owner.

deryll1

thanks!! great info again, i like this forum!