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-   -   Upgrading Alernator 07 Tahoe (https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/upgrading-alernator-07-tahoe-45572/)

fox7seven September 27th, 2011 1:48 AM

Upgrading Alernator 07 Tahoe
 
Hey Guys I have a sound system. And I think my Alternator is failing after5 years, why? Well plase read:


Latelly I have noticed that my music when playing loud it cuts off. It only does it while the engine is running, When the Engine isnt runnin the music will not cut at all. So i think it is the alternator.

Any good websites and of course what type of Alternator shoul I get (amps)?

Vehicle 2007 k1500 Tahoe 4WD
5.3 Liter V8

Hean Unit: Eclipse
EQ/DSP: Eclipse
6-1/2 Compnents speakers Eclipse
2 12' Inch Alpine Type R Subs
One 4 channel Amp Eclipse
One 2 CHannel Amp Soundstream for the subs.

Thanks in advanced!
----
Or do you guys think by doing the Big 3 Upgrade will help? I dont think so tho! My battery is an Optima Red Cap (two years old)

SWHouston September 27th, 2011 11:44 AM

Fox,

Please understand I haven't done this myself, but...
they make Alternators up to about 200 amps for your Hoe. Be careful though, there are different Plug Clock numbers which you should consider, and there may be a choice on the Alternators rotation (cw/ccw). I've also herd that some have dealt with this problem, by installing a second Battery. Sorry about such vague info, but, just thought these should be things you might consider.

ousig2408 September 27th, 2011 12:55 PM

there is no way that system size is too much for the stock alternator. there may be some sort of ground problem or connection problem.
you can always go to AutoZone or a simlar store near you and have them test the alternator - that would be the best thing to do since it is quick and free.

fox7seven September 27th, 2011 11:33 PM


Originally Posted by ousig2408 (Post 193256)
there is no way that system size is too much for the stock alternator. there may be some sort of ground problem or connection problem.
you can always go to AutoZone or a simlar store near you and have them test the alternator - that would be the best thing to do since it is quick and free.

I will take it tomorrow morning to my local Autozone Store. I wen't to two Stereo installation Shops and they said, leave it and we will look at it our rate per hour is $45 (other store) - $85 (best buy store).

Also if there was a bad ground or something wouldnt the music just cut off even if the engine wasn't running?. if I just turn the switch to on (with out engine running) the music will not cut out. Only while the engine is running, this problem just started. And my lights go dowm/dim when the engine is on. If i roll up a window while stopped on a red light the lights will dim to low. lol..

SWHouston September 28th, 2011 5:56 AM

Fox,

Have you actually ran a total of how many amps your system requires ?
That being off of the name plate/tags on the components.

ousig2408 September 28th, 2011 7:40 AM


Originally Posted by fox7seven (Post 193347)
I will take it tomorrow morning to my local Autozone Store. I wen't to two Stereo installation Shops and they said, leave it and we will look at it our rate per hour is $45 (other store) - $85 (best buy store).

Also if there was a bad ground or something wouldnt the music just cut off even if the engine wasn't running?. if I just turn the switch to on (with out engine running) the music will not cut out. Only while the engine is running, this problem just started. And my lights go dowm/dim when the engine is on. If i roll up a window while stopped on a red light the lights will dim to low. lol..

when the engine is on there is a lot more electrical goodies activated and drain on the system. so a bad ground somewhere could really screw everything up. hopefully it is something easy like the alternator or a bad ground but if it was the alternator I would think you would have other issues, like the battery not charging up enough and you being stuck with a dead battery sometime. When you say about your windows causing your lights to dim that makes me think there is some sort of electrical drain somewhere. That is why I mentioned a bad ground somewhere - it could be on something that is only activated when the engine is on (maybe the alternator ground wire?) Also check your ground wires from your amps.

a bit of a ramble but update when you get back from autozone

Optima Bill October 2nd, 2011 7:30 PM

Hi Fox,
There have already been a couple of good posts made about your stereo issues. SWHouston makes a great point in knowing how many amps your new stereo system is drawing, especially when you have it cranked up. Also, double-checking for good solid grounds, properly sized power wires is just always a great place to start once you know the amperage you need. As for Optima batteries, our YellowTop series is the proper battery if you do have a big stereo system. They are deep-cycle batteries by design and can handle prolonged periods of steady amperage draws. RedTops are great for OEM applications and starting your engine but not really meant to handle big aftermarket stereo systems.
Checking the alternator output by a professional is probably the best place to start and be sure that it is not getting weak.
I will be monitoring this thread in case you have any other questions once you check into things and eliminate the standard things.
Thanks,
Bill Howell
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.

fox7seven November 2nd, 2011 5:40 AM


Originally Posted by Optima Bill (Post 193721)
Hi Fox,
There have already been a couple of good posts made about your stereo issues. SWHouston makes a great point in knowing how many amps your new stereo system is drawing, especially when you have it cranked up. Also, double-checking for good solid grounds, properly sized power wires is just always a great place to start once you know the amperage you need. As for Optima batteries, our YellowTop series is the proper battery if you do have a big stereo system. They are deep-cycle batteries by design and can handle prolonged periods of steady amperage draws. RedTops are great for OEM applications and starting your engine but not really meant to handle big aftermarket stereo systems.
Checking the alternator output by a professional is probably the best place to start and be sure that it is not getting weak.
I will be monitoring this thread in case you have any other questions once you check into things and eliminate the standard things.
Thanks,
Bill Howell
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.

UPDATE:

Please read.
First thing I did i took my 07 tahoe to auto zone to get my alternator and battery checked.

Autozone told me that the battery was low to 60% and in order to the "tester" to check the alternator the battery needs to be fully charged. So i left the battery there for them to charge the optima red top battery (2 years old) he said it will take an hour to get it fully charged. I left and he called me 25 mins later and told me that the machined BEEPED that it was charged BUT the battery was only charged up to 60-70 % and the charger will not keep charging it.

So he told me to take it to my dealer and to check it there. So i went to a car dealer but not a chevy dealer, i went to a toyota dealer, why? because my friend works there and i know he wouldnt charge and he will give me a honest answer. so he pull out an alternator tester and he said " well it reading 14.2" or something like that i dont quite remember hehe. so he said " the alternator is charging good" then i told him that when i turn my muisc loud while the engine running the battery metter in my dash board will drop fast and the lights will dim badly. so he told me to turn on the sound system and play it loud. He keept his alternator voltage metter / tester connected.

Music was loud alot of bass going on and the metter was droping from 14.2 to 12.3 in a few seconds. So he was like " ur alternator is not keeping up, replace it or put a capacitor to your sound system". i was like ok man thanks.

A couple of weeks passed and yesterday i decided to take my tahoe to a stereo shop and do the BIG 3 upgrade. So the guy checked it and told me that it was going to codst me $75 just for the big 3. I was like sure go ahead. BUT when they opened the hood of my tahoe he found that my wires and stuff were good and the was no need to do a big 3 upgrade on the wires. he told me that the stereo shop that installed my system back in 2006 did a good job. in fact he told me he used to work for them back a few years ago before going out of business. So i he took a little battery tester and a little papaer receipt came out of it with the report of my battery health lol.. he said look it has 58 % charge on it. and we just turn the sound system for less than a minute. he said " it has to be the battery" So he offer me a battery Odyssey PC 1500 DT And i know that those batteries are very good and is indeed for sound systems. So we swap batteries and i payed the guy $250 for the battery and $25 for labor. PLUS taxes.

So I turn my engine on and crank my musik UP and guess WHAT???.... the music didnt cut out st high volume and the battery metter didnt when down like with my optima battery. IT did when down a little bit when MY AC was turned on. So I turn of my AC and just kept my sound system on snd my lights were StILL bimming!! and the guy looked at me and say let it fully charge for a day or two and keep an eye on the diming lights. he said " i tought that was going to solve your problem" i was like YEA me too.

So he said your alternator id not keeping up i guess. So i was like yea, im just trying to solve this issue.

So guys i payed $290 for that battery in hopes on getting my diming lights problem fixed. the sound system didnt cut at high volume when i was there BUT, BUt when i got home i starting to crank my musik up while the engine was running and i was looking at my lights dim over and over every time the BASS hits. so i turn it off (the engine) and also the musik. then my dad told me turn it on again and crank it up, he said let me go to the front of ur tahoe and see how bad the head lights are dimming. So he said there dimming but not that bad. but then i turn down the volume to 20 and just cranked up a little up to 55 and the speakers from my doors werent working, i was like WTF... so i turn off the power of the head unit turn it back on and still no speaker sound, i could only hear the bass working but no voice at all. so i turn it off and on again and still nothing so i left it off for 1 minute then i turn it on and crank it up and it didnt cut out. the max voule i go on my system is 73 out 80 so the system cutted out at 55 which is not even loud.

so i went for a ride and cranked it up and i coouldnt see the lights diming alot like they used to when driving at 40 mph.

So at this point i dont know what to think. I know the amp is not bad because i swamp amps before i posted my first thread here and still it was cutting out with different amp.

If i play my musik loud with the engine off the lights will not dim right away, they will start to dim after a few minutes.

I need some pointers. you guys think the Alternator is NEXT on the list of replacement? or ?.

Thanks a million for reading this, i try to explain the best i can so another fan of this forum can relate to my problem and of course save him/her the time of going what i been trhu..lol..

Best regards,
Fox7seven
.
edit: the installer told me i was running 1500 watts on my sound system, he gave me a guess tho. he been doing this for 15 years.

ousig2408 November 2nd, 2011 7:51 AM

so long story short - you had a bad Optima battery (surprise). I have heard more bad than good about those batteries. I had 2 yellow tops in my Acura (1200 watt system) and the 1st lasted less than 1 year then the 2nd right over 1 year. Sorry Optima Bill
even still I think you need at least a 1F capacitor - 2F would be better. Your new battery is at 100% so it can help keep up, but with that kind of draw on your STOCK electrical system, that wasnt designed to power everything AND a 1500ish watt stereo in the 1st place, the new battery will not last as long at it should.

fox7seven November 2nd, 2011 10:31 PM


Originally Posted by ousig2408 (Post 196474)
so long story short - you had a bad Optima battery (surprise). I have heard more bad than good about those batteries. I had 2 yellow tops in my Acura (1200 watt system) and the 1st lasted less than 1 year then the 2nd right over 1 year. Sorry Optima Bill
even still I think you need at least a 1F capacitor - 2F would be better. Your new battery is at 100% so it can help keep up, but with that kind of draw on your STOCK electrical system, that wasnt designed to power everything AND a 1500ish watt stereo in the 1st place, the new battery will not last as long at it should.

Thanks for your reply. You think a High output alternator will help? I am asking this because i have 2 capacitors laying around both are 1F. The installer said that the capacitor was something of the pass. so i don't know. Also a question i have: What Alternator does my tahoe has is the big V8 5.3 engine. is it a 140 amp alternator or?

check this link out (alternators)

http://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=141771


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