Continued planning (for now)...
 

Plan on meeting with the installer that quoted me $900 to see what he was thinking install wise. That said, I still don't really want to pay so I'm continuing my planning.

First thing I found that really helped me out was a GM Upfitter's General Electrical system guide. This guide is very recent and essentially covers what you should/shouldn't do/use when working with 07 (and other) year GM vehicles. This guide backs up what I read about not tapping into OEM systems whenever possible. Lots more info in there, pending your technical level:

http://www.gmupfitter.com/images/BPM_electrical.gif

Based on the guide, I plan on running my always on power 12V directly from my battery before the main on-board fuse (near the winshield/left side when standing in front of your vehicle - coverd by default). There will be a fuse just after my connection (1 Amp) and I will route through the firewall to the interior mounting location for my DPKGLM and VIPER 5902.

As for the IGN ("Switched") 12V, I have read that in the under-hood fuse box that fuse #49 on the 2007 Tahoe is switched, and is one that I could use an "Add-A-Fuse" (link below of picture showing something like add-a-fuse and then link to actual add-a-fuse) to separate a circuit, which I could then run to a relay. The always on power will supply the power to my relay when this #49 powers with the key turn on, thus giving the alarm the IGN 12V at that time.

http://image.truckinweb.com/f/996340...l+fuse_box.jpg

Amazon.com: Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit: Automotive


Still need to investigate which exact add-a-fuse size I need, and also want to poke holes at this whole theory before I try it out. I figured that if I posted it this morning, someone would rip this idea (factually) or endorse it as something that has worked for their 2007 Tahoe without side-effects. Any takers?

P.S. Since this is all custom, I'm thinking of a custom wire for the tapping into the OBD/CAN interface hi for the DLPKGM Module. I can then run all these cables to a nice hiding spot for the Brain/Back-Up battery. I'm starting to salivate over doing it, as long as it will work.

OK guys. Well no one's posted anything back to this in a while, so I guess it might be a good idea for me to do it :).

I've moved forward in my installation. I found an ignition switched power in the under-dash box that has interior accessory power harnesses. I tapped this to trigger a relay for my Ignition power as planned no problems there. Fused line straight from my battery provides the constant 12v to both my relay and to my alarm directly.

I have encountered one problem so far which will cause a delay with my install. Even though I researched really hard, I made a mistake in ordering the DLPKGM. It will not program on the '07 Tahoe. I have instead ordered the XK09 and RFLCHGM. I'm not planning on installing remote start through the Viper, but using the RFLCHGM causes the XK09 to use less power when the car is off.

In the meantime, I figured that I could start tweaking my sensors. I have the alarm brain sitting on my dash floor (powered, but not interfaced to car) with the antenna connected. Hooked up one of my piezos as the alarm speaker, and then hooked up the AU94T motion sensor. I've removed the back plate of my center console and plan to keep the sensor in here.

When it comes to adjusting this sensor, you want to turn both the internal/external sensitivity to 0 (all the way counter-clockwise). You then increase very slightly on external, arm your alarm, stay about 10 feet away and after 30 seconds walk up to your glass. It should chirp a warning, and then if you stay there, it should go to full trigger.

I started to notice that I was having a problem. The problem wasn't that the sensor would go off too easily, but rather that when it did go off, the pre-warn beeps fast and goes straight to full alarm trigger. I then took the prox out of the picture and just touched the pre-warn cable of my viper to a ground cable. Same thing happens. The problem here is that if you were someone getting a pre-warning from my alarm, there's no time to back up, etc. It just goes to full trigger. I have a BITwriter, but don't see anyway to adjust the pre-warn time,etc or improve this. Anyone else know how to?

If I'm installing wrong, please feel free to recommend suggestions that I'm possibly overlooking.

P.S. In my testing, because I have the alarm brain sitting on my car floor, and a piezo siren close by. Not sure if the siren (when pre-warn/warn-away'ing) is accidentally triggering the Brain's built-in shock sensor?

I've figured out the warn issue. The driver door trigger input I was using gives a 3 second warn but is (correctly) supposed to go straight to trigger after that. Only the shock sensor (which on a 5902 is internal) does a true warning without full trigger on lighter impacts. I wouldn't have a problem with opening up the 5902 and soldering my motion sensor to the inputs of the shock sensor (in place of the shock sensor), but without a wiring/board diagram, that's a bit much to undertake without risking the brain. I'm thinking I will use the AU94T for internal sensing only and thus if it's hard triggering, it will be because it should be triggering at that moment (i.e. someone's in the car for sure). As always any new ideas or comments can only help.

No need to open up the brain. The Unit has a Mux Port located next to the Door L/U port. This will give you the warn-away feature you desire. You can also get a t-Harness to plug multiple sensors into the port.

Just curious as to why your not going to use the Remote Start feature of the system?
THE D2D feature works well in this application.

I'm not using the remote start as I have a Ravelco kill-switch installed. Without the cap in place, the remote start can't work. Although I know I could make it work despite the Ravelco cap not being in place, that kind of defeats the Ravelco's purpose (multiple wire killswitch) by bypassing it for the alarm remote start. I'd rather not have the feature (dont need it much in San Diego) and make a theft a little harder.

Thanks for the answer on the mux port. I wasn't aware that port will allow warn-away. I had been mistakenly using the driver door input. I need to wire up a glass break sensor, tilt sensor, and the AU94t Prox, so I'll try the prox on the Mux and connect the others to my hard trigger trunk switch input.

Actually the glass break and tilt sensor plugged into the mux port will give a instant trigger to the alarm, no warn. If you notice those sensors are three wire and the prox is a four wire. The fourth wire on the prox is the warning trigger.

I used an XK09 with the 5902 in D2D. I wired my DEI back-up battery to the blue trigger wire on the 5902. I then used the Mux port for my tilt trigger, glass-break trigger and Crimegaurd AU94T Proximity Sensor. I used diodes to separate the blue hard trigger of each sensor as they tapped into the blue hard trigger wire going to the MUX port on the 5902. I then connected the green warn-away wire from my AU94T to the other blue (warn-away) wire that goes to the MUX port. Now I have proper working Warn-Away for the prox as well as properly working full triggering for any of the sensors. The only downside of this configuration is that my remote can only show one graphic (i.e. glass break sensor, proximity sensor) and not necessarily a specific one. I will probably set it to show proximity sensor, but in any case, I'll know something's been triggered. If the sensors need any future adjustment, I'll just detach the harness of the 2 sensors I'm not adjusting from the sensor side and work with just the one isolated sensor having an issue.

Perfect. I am in the same boat with the remote only being able to show only one icon at a time. sucks!!!! I have mine set to the prox screen as well. If this screen comes up i know either the trucks being jacked up or someone broke the glass! and my ass is out the door!!!!! Also for what its worth the iphone "chime" text sound will set off the glass sensor if you leave the phone in the truck.

Alarms working great. Glad I did it myself in the end. If you've got the tools and really know your stuff, you shouldn't feel scared to take it on guys. Good Luck.

2007 tahoe ltz alarm ?
 

New to this forum .... Interested in installing Viper 5904 and would like to keep all the extras... ie heated seats, power lift gate (open=close) climate control when temp outside is hot or cold. Which bypass module will suite best for these factory options? Also would like to install it myself... any help would be greatly appreciated.