2017 Traverse Lift Gate chime, Humming and not opening Gate
 

Have a 2017 Traverse Premium that was bought used from a Toyota Dealer locally. It has 40k on it and not more than a month into havin gthe car the rear lift gate stopped working

Took it back to Toyota and they replace the strut......fast forward a few months later and same issue you would push the button he what sounded like the system was trying to release on open but it would fail.
Took it back again to Toyota this time they said they sent it to the local Chevy dealer. Came back from the Chevy dealer working and they stated found no issue as the gate was working
So then over the next year the gate would stop working and would have to crawl in the back and manually release the latch

Again all of a sudden it would start working......then finally stopped again and would have to turn off the auto open switch up front and manually open it with the button at the rear then that stopped working:@
No chime, no hum like it was trying to open.....checked the two fuses and both where good

So again took it in to Toyota and they were A$$ about and they said they would eart the diags cost...so I set them up a little......arranged the back so they would have to move thing around to show that they actually where in there looking at it.
I'd be damned my wife picked it up and they told here is was the Latch Actuator at the gate and wanted $850 to replace it.....ya right.....so bought a new switch online ($250) and replaced the Latch Actuator Switch which took me all but 30 mins

So still not working but now I get the chime and hum...if switched to manual still does not work from the rear...

Anythoughts on this and what to look for????? Really frustrated as I am seeing this all over the internet but no real resolution to the issue????

Where can I find like a Bentley Repair Manual for this Traverse, I am no sloch around car I mainily work on Bimmers at home havea 95 e34 that has had an engine and tranny swap, turbo'd etc.....
I just dont have the time to futs with this right now as I hate modern cars with all the damn comuteres/modules etc.......

Any help would be great

Update playing around with this more discovered that If I push the 3 molex connector which look to be connected to a Module in the left rear wheel well the gate works.....
Pulled the 3 molex connectors and pins look good, no cuts in the wires..So I am assuming that the green board soder points are bad and when torquing the wires over gets the point to connect.

I am assuming that this is the lift Gate module?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...fd9eed01e7.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...a5113294d0.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...52083ef403.jpg

I am assuming like all new cars will require Dealer to Program/calibrate it or can I simple replace it and then open the gate stop it and hold the close button until I heard the beeps?

You might try unplugging, makimg sure wires well seated in the connector, make sure female terminals all tight and spray some deoxit in the connection.

OK so already did that pulled the 3 molex connected looked for corrosion and bent pins and all looks good

I am guessiing the inside the Module that where the pins connect have bad soder connections or maybe the safty switch module is shorting out...

It just really odd...follow if you can

Attempt to open the gate from the Key fob, get the chime like its opening and humming
Push the 3 molex connectors and door opens....
If I release the 3 molex the stops
push and hold again and door completes and opens
try and close and nothing....push 3 molex it closes

Try and open again without push the 3 molex no chime or hum
push 3 molex nothing
Start the car reverse and then put in drive and then park

Attempt again and chime and hum comes back but will not open
Push the 3 molex and it opens

So need to find a schmatic for the lift gate module and see what these 3 molex connects actuallt connect to

Next steps:
1- Pull Lift gate module
2- Check for any water damage
3- Try and see if only single connector has issue

Any thoughts

I am guilty of always trying to fix anythinng - I would attempt to open the module and see if there were solder points I could hit with my solder gun - and see what the heck I am wiggling internally that makes it work. My 85 Nissan had an intermittent fuel pump "failure" that replacement did not fix. I pulled my computer board and found if I pushed on one corner I could re-create the fault. Hit all the joints with solder gun 5 yrs ago, perfect ever since then. I will be interested to her what you find.Is that part still available new?