cybor462

Hi all
Ok I got this jewel because an EX friend a self proclaimed chevy pro said it was a super deal. I needed a car for my wife had very little $$$$$. I wont go into all the details but right after I got it had (185000 miles) and a noise. Well it ended up needing timing chain followers, brakes,struts, oil seal, and the list continues.........I paid 1300.00 for the car and another 1500 in repairs (did them ourselves) and it ran very well. Been driving it for 2 years now and I have to keep it because I have so much $$$$ in it.

Ok the issue......about 2 weeks ago my wife was going to leave for work and crank crank no start. I checked it had spark, but no fuel. I sprayed carb cleaner in the throat and fired right up. I then checked and when you turned the key on the fuel pump fired up like it should built pressure and shut off in a few seconds, that was ok. My next check was the fuel regulator. I dont have a tester so what I did was loosen the return line on the regulator and it was dry. Seemed weird to me. I then took my mighty vac and pulled vac on the regulator with the return line off and I heard a gurgle type noise. I tightened the return and put the vac hose back on the regulator and the car started. I buttoned it up and it has run flawless for two weeks. Today again crank crank no start. I tried the trick with the regulator again because I cant afford to buy a new one for $80 and not fix the issue. This time it started for a minute and died. No luck. I looked online and there are many who have the anti theft system issue that sounds like my trouble. This car is as basic as it gets no power locks or windows and no theft system as far as I know. Our keys are just the normal old style metal ones Walmart can cut.
I am stumped. It certainly acts like the theft thing but I do not think we have it.
Can anyone help? I need this car running. I dont have a fuel pressure tester and dont have $50 to get one. Just seems weird because when it runs it runs great no performance issues it has power idles smooth and gets great fuel mileage. I would think that would eliminate fuel filter or pump since they would give me all kinds of performance issues and idle rough. Fuel cant be obstructed since it works great and then it wont start. I feel its electrical but what do I know. Seems like injectors are not getting the pulse but I am not skilled in that area. I do have a noid set from years ago but never used them so I would have to see how its done.
Any help would be great. I have mechanic tools just not a fuel pressure tester. I may have what is needed to test. I do have an old scan tool from 2005 but it works great. The only code I got was a cat convertor performance code thats it.
I think if I get this figured out I may be able to post fix online and help a bunch of people out.
Any suggestions anyone can tell me to try I will gladly do what I can.
Thanks

cleveland63b

was there fuel in the vacuum line of the regulator? As much as I know you don't want to hear it first things I'd check is fuel pressure and volume.

tech2

how did you confirm no fuel?
-it started on carb cleaner
-may even be a fuel leakdown problem...I have seen 2200 injector leak fuel out the back of the injector connector wiring harness.

have to agree with cleveland63b...rule out a fuel issue

cybor462

[QUOTE=cleveland63b;325589]was there fuel in the vacuum line of the regulator? As much as I know you don't want to hear it first things I'd check is fuel pressure and volume.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the reply. I found no fuel in the vac line. I get I need to check the fuel pressure. Just do not have a gauge right now. I pulled freeze data off the computer would that help at all?

cybor462

Tech2 thanks for the reply. I assumed it was not getting fuel because it ran on carb cleaner right off. It stayed running as long as I fed it. I do not know if the injectors maybe not working but if they were I am guessing it would at least try to start if it runs on carb cleaner. As I stated its only a start issue when it runs it runs smooth, lots of power and good fuel mileage. I do not know but I would think if there were injector issues wouldn't they cause running issues as well?
I was guessing electrical in nature like computer or sensor issue. That was my thought because if it was mechanical wouldn't it cause running issues as well?
I do not know and was hoping to get your help. You mentioned injector leak down. I would guess with the mileage this has things are wearing out. Could that happen but run and idle smooth, and have great mpg? If the injector is bad could it leak down but provide proper supply when running? How do I test that? Fuel pressure tester? I know I need to get a tester but I am not working and income very low. I will try to get one next week if you think that is the way to get this figured out.
I read some had issues with computer not sending signal to the injectors. I do have noid set. Would that help to test to be sure they are getting the signal? I guess when the engine runs that is.
I did pull freeze data of the computer would that be of any help? I would have to type it all in but I will gladly do it if you feel that would shed some light on this. Only had 1 code a P0141 but I can put up freeze data if you want to see it. Let me know. I need to get this running if at all possible.
Thanks for your help.

cybor462

Ok I got my hands on a pressure test kit. It has the adapter for GM. I got access to the fuel rail but there is no schrader valve. The inlet line to the rail is a quick disconnect. All I have are 2 rubber hoses supplied with the kit and a T saying special GM adapters. How do I make a square fit into a round hole? The instructions say to push rubber hose over line and attach hose clamp. Don't think will work here. So I borrowed to get the gauge kit and it does not look like I can use it. Of course I opened it so no return.
Am I crazy or am I out of luck? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

UPDATE
Ok I found I need a Master Injector testing kit to get the part I need to test fuel pressure on this car. I need the ends that are quick connect fittings one male and one female. From what I was able to find these are only available on the $150+ kits. As I would only use this maybe one time in my life thats too much for me to spend. I could be wrong, does anyone know of how I could get these fittings or a cheaper kit?

I also did more checking. I have power to the injectors, I have a signal to the injectors. The spark plugs are dry. Fuel pump runs to build pressure and stops as it should. I have great spark and it runs on carb cleaner. Fuel regulator is dry with no fuel in vac line but I noticed when I put vac to it it bleeds off right away does not hold it. Is that an issue? I banged on tank and it makes no difference.Or maybe ignition switch may quit when released. Best way to test switch?
Anything I left out?

tech2

the fpr should lower pressure with vac applied


you can make your own adaptor kit for $20. I went to napa and bought the quick connectors and hose clamped them to some 3/8 fuel line; use a tee connector for the fuel pressure gauge.

Rednucleus

When my 93 had these symptoms (would not start, fuel pump ran, had spark) I could add gas to the throttle body to keep it running. Found the problem was the module in the distributor - don't know if yours has that but it's a common failure and not too expensive to replace

cybor462

tech2
The fpr when I applied vac to it the vac leaked away it did not hold the vac. I understand when the fpr is static with no vac applied it allows full pressure and as vac is applied the fuel pressure is lowered. What I saw was with car off and when vac was applied with vac pump the gauge on the vac pump fell. The fpr did not hold vac it just leaked out as soon as I applied it. Is that normal?
I was at Autozone and Advance and I asked both places is there anything I could buy to make the pressure tester connect to the quick disconnects and both places told me no.

Could you tell me exactly what you bought? I am not sure there is NAPA here but if I knew exactly what I need to get I hope to find it at one of the parts stores in my area. What exactly did you purchase to attach to the 3/8 fuel line? Thanks for your help.

cybor462

rednucleus what was the module called. This engine does not have a distributor so I am not sure what module you are talking about. If you could remember what it was called maybe this engine has one somewhere and I can check it. I want to pursue what tech2 mentioned if I can find the items he used to connect to the quick disconnects so I can check fuel pressure. I added another problem with all the cranking my starter drive has now started kicking out. At almost 200000 miles things are wore out. I will have to address this issue too.
Please try to remember the name of that module and post so I can investigate it.
Thanks for your help.