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  #1  
Old 03-02-2013, 09:43 AM
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Default 97 k1500 diy brake lines

My truck had brake lines that are rotted through. The front is dead center on the front cross member where it passes through a clip. and the rear where the line descends past the frame before bending to go back. If these two are rotted out, I decided I might as well replace them all. However, I guess nobody sells pre-bent brake lines for this year. I also searched around town and there wasn't anyone willing to tackle this. Looks like I get to do it...

I bought: tube cutter ($4.99 harbor freight), tube bender ($9.99 harbor freight), double tube flaring kit ($24.99 harbor freight), #2 nut assortment ($15.75 fedhillusa.com), #4 nut assortment ($16.60 (fedhullusa.com), 3/16"x25' poly armour brake line (21.99 autozone), 1/4"x25' poly armour brake line ($23.99 autozone), and 2 couplings 1/4" 7/16-24, $3 each autozone). This is enough to do all the lines front and rear.

I removed the old lines and bent all new ones to match. Actually this wasn't too hard. Couple of notes though...

1. I might recommend a better tube flare kit. The one from harbor freight I had to play with while clamping the tube to ensure the halves of the clamp lined up. Otherwise the divot for the flare wasn't square.

2. Install a fitting and flare the first end before beginning your bends. That way if it messes up it can be redone without ending up short. Also be sure that the fitting is slid to the flared end before the making the first bend, it won't want to slide there afterwards.

3. Installing the front line was the most trouble as it was the most intricate. Remember the route when taking the old one out. It is bent to go around the other lines, the radiator hose, the steering rack, etc. I had to bend it a little out of shape to install it but it was no big deal.

4. To make the coils in the tubes I used a can (butane) I had and just twisted the line around it.

5. Once the lines are back in, tight, and clamped back into the factory clamps, do some final adjustments to make sure it isn't touching anything so it doesn't get worn through.

Yeah, I have brakes again.
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97 k1500 diy brake lines-brakelinefront-jpg   97 k1500 diy brake lines-brakelinefrontinside-jpg  

Last edited by duanes7; 03-03-2013 at 09:17 AM. Reason: add pictures
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2013, 12:47 PM
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Sounds like you did a great job on that !

So many people who have a Brake Line problem, think that Brass Tubing will work on Brakes. IT WILL NOT, and one takes his/and others life's in his hands should he do that.

It was a wise choice to use tubing which is dedicated for Brake Lines. AutoZone (probably other parts stores too) have shorter already made up lengths of Steel Tubing, for those who need a single piece for repair.

PS: There are several size lines and connector sizes, so, it's best to take the piece off, and take it with you, to get the correct replacement piece.
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Last edited by SWHouston; 03-02-2013 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:33 PM
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Thanx, kind of a daunting job to start. Ended up being fairly easy.

Yes Autozone and others had straight lengths already flared with fittings on the ends. The ones I saw had one short (1/2") and one longer (3/4") fitting. Probably the same thread and everything, but the factory has 2 short fittings. Also except for the lines that run along the frame none of the others are straight and I couldn't judge what length I needed. The very front one I bet is easily 8 feet if not longer.

Also no-one at the store could tell me what lengths I needed either. Autozone was the only one that had the coils of tubing in stock. I just decided the easiest route was to get more than I needed and cut my own.

Have speedbleeders that I will install tomorrow. With having the system totally apart it will need an extensive bleeding. I have brakes now, but the pedal is slow to return.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:18 PM
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So, the saga continues. Tried to bleed brakes but three of the bleeder fittings are stuck and the 4th the end is completely corroded off. There's nothing to grab onto.

Purchased 2 new calipers and 2 new wheel cylinders. Now I remember why I hate working on drum brakes...

Once I got the drums off the pads just fell off the shoes. Also the adjusters are frozen. Bought new pads and new adjuster kits.

The drum brake shoes are different. The one with the long pad goes to the rear...
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  #5  
Old 03-10-2013, 01:19 PM
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HA YEA, all you younguns are used to working on Disks, and believe me, I've run into all those problems on Drums when I was working. I specially enjoyed doing some of the 50's GM cars, which had the Shoe Eccentric that "should" be adjusted when you turned or replaced the shoes.

A nice slick turning and arching the shoes, really got that pedal high and hard.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:19 PM
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Thanks for the compliment but I'm no young gun. But I haven't worked on older cars since I had one back in 87 (66 charger) and never a truck until now.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanes7 View Post
66 charger.
UOO YEA !, A friend of mine had one of the 383's, that I worked on when I had a Shop. I just LOVED that ride ! Run like a spotted ape !
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2003 Chev Suburban, GMT830/K15906A, Z71, 5.3L Ffv, 4L60E/NP8, G80/3.73:1, GTW:8100.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:40 AM
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Yep. I put dual carter thermoquads on my wide block 318. Couldn't stomp the gas from the line, the engine would die, but feather the throttle a bit then stomp. Watch out. It would roast the tires... When working with the tires on it, had to remember the lugs on the passenger side were reverse threaded...

Never had to do the brakes on it. The rear axle seals leaked so bad the shoes were saturated and didn't do anything for stopping anyway...
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:59 PM
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Ha yea, I've had some air available for a few of mine too. When I went, it was NHRA and I had mostly GM, Olds and Chev 283 which were in C & G Stock (sorta ). I still have a 5.13:1 PTrack that I used in a 58 Chevy that I've been hanging on to for all these years. You know, just sentimental stuff from days when most of us were a lot wilder than now.

Speaking of replacing Slave Cylinders...
Back then I had a 49 Olds 2dr Fastback, did a little engine work on it, and was running 8:60/15 on the rear. They were six ply and usually used on a Hurst and had a real wide tread for back then. Couldn't use Slicks or they'd put me in a Gas Class. Anyway, they were a LOT taller tire than was intended for that car, which made the rear brakes sorta weak. I went to the Junk Yard and got some Slave Cylinders off the front wheels of another Olds and put um on the rear, which changed the bore from 7/8" to 1 1/8".
No problem stopping that Tank at the end of the quarter mile then.
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Good Golf, good 4wheelin and anything else that makes you HAPPY !
2003 Chev Suburban, GMT830/K15906A, Z71, 5.3L Ffv, 4L60E/NP8, G80/3.73:1, GTW:8100.

Last edited by SWHouston; 03-12-2013 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:56 PM
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Spent the better part of a week trying to figure out why the brakes were firm with the engine off and virtually non-existent with the engine running. I'd bled them many times. Tried another master cylinder. Even put in a new booster temporarily. No help.

Took it to the dealer so they could function test the abs. The tech had an attitude almost like he resented me having done my own work and taken food from the mouths of his family. First thing he said, was "I can't guarantee any pedal pressure". He never did cycle the abs. Nor get me any pedal pressure.

Turns out I was a dummy and had the calipers on the wrong sides (puts bleeders on the bottom instead of on the top). Swapped the calipers and ta-da I have great brakes.

Either the "certified" tech didn't notice or he chose to not tell me.

Still have about 2 inches of play before the brakes start to grab. But will drive it for a while, then re-bleed everything.

Oh, now I have the low speed brake grab. Need to clean the front abs sensors. I have the abs fuse pulled for now.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:56 PM
 
 
 
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97, axle, brake, breakline, btake, chevy, correct, k1500, line, lines, rear, replacement, replacing, size, threads


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