2008 Impala - Rear door locks non functional - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums

2008 Impala - Rear door locks non functional


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  #1  
Old  October 14th, 2011, 12:04 AM
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2008 Impala - Rear door locks non functional

2008 Chevy Impala LT - Power door locks do not work. Tried all four switches. Neither driver, nor passenger rear doors will unlock/lock. I've read about several different issues involving these cars with power locks, but figured I'd try asking on here. What is it with these cars that a three year old car has this kind of issue?? Thanks in advance for reply!

  #2  
Old  November 7th, 2011, 8:05 AM
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Known issue with 2008 and 2009 vehicles. You need new door latches. Those model years were produced with a type of grease that bleeds into the latch actuator. After time the carbon from the motor brushes builds up around the actuator motor and shorts the communitator. Results... no power lock or unlock function.

Rear doors are a pain to service. Connecting the rod from the sill button to the latch is a real trick but can be done. I've serviced too many to count. Rear doors will take you the longest (20 minutes each)... front passenger door is a breeze (10 minutes)... drivers door is a bit of a trick as you have an additional rod from the key cylinder to the latch as well as the sill button to the latch (maybe another 15 minutes).

New product does not have this issue.


Last edited by sman0624; September 25th, 2014 at 11:08 AM.
  #3  
Old  January 6th, 2012, 5:27 PM
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How do you disconnect the outside handle from the lock assembly? Also, where is the best place to get the actuator/lock assembly. I need to do both rear doors.

Thanks,
Chris

  #4  
Old  January 11th, 2012, 10:19 PM
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Chris,
You actually don't disconnect the rod from the door handle but instead you seperate the rod from the yellow clip on the release lever on the latch.
The yellow clip is a simple clip that snaps closed and has a living hinge on one end. When reassembling make sure the latch is secured to the door with the M6 fasteners first then load the rod to the clip and snap closed. This will prevent preloading the handle to latch.

A few tips for rear doors.
Disassembly.
*Unscrew lock rod cap from rod.
*Remove trim panel and cable end fitting from inside door handle housing
*Open yellow clip to release outside handle release rod
*Remove 3 M6 fasteners Torx T30 required
*Remove lower M6 fastener that holds lower glass guidance channel (10mm I think), this just makes removing the latch easier and you will notice the cable must be routed on the door pnl side of the glass channel.
*Lower latch while in the door cavity, use a small flat blade screw driver to open the purple slide bar on the electrical connector. it slides towards the top of the latch then the sealed connector pops right off.

Assembly tips.
*Load the latch (no rods assembled to the latch) to the door inner and get the cable on the correct side of the glass guidance channel
*Now the worst part... load the rod that goes from the sill button to the triangular shaped lock lever on the latch. This rod has to pass from the hole in the door inner to the rubber grommet on the lock lever. don't give up..it's a PITA the first time. You will need to have the latch as far up in the door as possible then tilt the latch and twist to get the rod to load to the plastic lever. It's a "Z" fitting I believe.
* Secure electrical connector to latch and slide the purple locking bar.
* Position latch to the mounting surface and hand load the 3 M6 fasteners and tighten
* Load the outside handle rod to the yellow clip on the latch and fold closed
* install 10mm bolt from glass run channel
*Install cable to inside door release lever on trim pad
Install trim pad and all screw/clips/sill button to rod & shark fin etc

Good luck.

  #5  
Old  February 29th, 2012, 8:03 AM
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jdbchevy

Does any one have pictures or a video of how to do this because I have looked all over the place and can not find anything, only words which I appreciate but sometimes that is not enough. Also if ones car battery is maybe 4 years old will that effect the door lock operation because the doors will operate some when the car is put into gear or park and running but not with the button or key fob.

  #6  
Old  March 1st, 2012, 9:37 PM
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battery doesn't have anything to do with it. I replaced both sides and it took maybe ~20 minutes each. After replacing locks, everything works fine. Too bad it cost me $265 for both locking mechanism. I saved the receipt because I know their will be a recall.
Can't comment on a video, because I never saw one. It is pretty much common sense after you remove the door panel. The previous post is GREAT instructions.

  #7  
Old  March 1st, 2012, 10:51 PM
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    nebraska
if the battery was too weak to operate door locks you'd be having a lot of other issues...like no cranking

  #8  
Old  January 3rd, 2013, 11:37 AM
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Hawk 76 
battery doesn't have anything to do with it. I replaced both sides and it took maybe ~20 minutes each. After replacing locks, everything works fine. Too bad it cost me $265 for both locking mechanism. I saved the receipt because I know their will be a recall.
Can't comment on a video, because I never saw one. It is pretty much common sense after you remove the door panel. The previous post is GREAT instructions.
Any word on this recall? Three of my door lock actuators went out between the 36,000 mile warranty and 38,000 mile. the dealer here wants $1,440.00 to replace them. the annoying part is that they will sometimes lock the doors but will NEVER UNlLOCK the doors, so every time I get to the pick-up line at my sons school I have to lay my front seats down and crawl in the back to let him in. When people laugh, I just say "DON'T BUY GM"

  #9  
Old  July 10th, 2013, 7:44 PM
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door lock

there is a video on
an how to for the back door.

  #10  
Old  July 10th, 2013, 7:49 PM
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I think THIS is a OK place to get them, does any one know if this is good?
If now where, we were told there is one unit for each door.
Thank you.
Dianne


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