94 s10
#2
I'm guessing the fuse blows when you push the horn button. If so, disconnect the wire(s) from your horn(s), install a new fuse and push your horn button. Pull the fuse, if it is ok then one or both (if you have dual horns) of your horns has a dead short or some other problem that is drawing WAY too much current. If you have dual horns, plug one in and try the test again. If the horn works, the other is bad. If the fuse blows with both wires disconnected, you have a shorted wire somewhere. Hope this helps. Good luck.
#3
I'm guessing the fuse blows when you push the horn button. If so, disconnect the wire(s) from your horn(s), install a new fuse and push your horn button. Pull the fuse, if it is ok then one or both (if you have dual horns) of your horns has a dead short or some other problem that is drawing WAY too much current. If you have dual horns, plug one in and try the test again. If the horn works, the other is bad. If the fuse blows with both wires disconnected, you have a shorted wire somewhere. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply . Acctually it blew the fuse and as soon as I put in another fuse it blows instaniously as soon as it touches the contacts .
#4
You have a shorted wire somewhere (or a shorted horn). It seems to me that your shorted wire will be in the power supply wire going to the horn button, since the fuse pops immediately rather than when the horn button os pushed. Unplug the long, flat wire connector at the base of the steering column as well as any other wire connector going up the column, then plug in a fuse if you don't have a meter that tests for continuity. If the fuse does not pop, then your short is inside the steering column. Has anyone had it apart for any reason? There is very little clearance for the wires in the column and that would be the first area I would check.
If the fuse still pops, then your problem is somewhere before the wire connectors at the bottom of the column. Do a visual check of the wires under the dash, check the wires at the fuse block, check the wires that plug into the bottom of the steering column.
To test your horns, remove the wire and run a jumper from the positive battery to the tab where the wire attached and the horn should blow.
Get a meter that will test for continuity and start checking the wires that supply power to your steering column if the above tests don't help you locate the short.
If the fuse still pops, then your problem is somewhere before the wire connectors at the bottom of the column. Do a visual check of the wires under the dash, check the wires at the fuse block, check the wires that plug into the bottom of the steering column.
To test your horns, remove the wire and run a jumper from the positive battery to the tab where the wire attached and the horn should blow.
Get a meter that will test for continuity and start checking the wires that supply power to your steering column if the above tests don't help you locate the short.
Last edited by coastn; March 12th, 2015 at 9:15 AM.
#6
Keep in mind that the short could be anywhere in that circuit. In other words, your fuse for the horn also supplies power to your dome lights, glove box light, vanity mirror, courtesy lights, clock, lighter, power side mirrors and the lift gate release solenoid. If someone put in an aftermarket radio I would look there first as the factory radio was also the clock. Good luck!
#7
Keep in mind that the short could be anywhere in that circuit. In other words, your fuse for the horn also supplies power to your dome lights, glove box light, vanity mirror, courtesy lights, clock, lighter, power side mirrors and the lift gate release solenoid. If someone put in an aftermarket radio I would look there first as the factory radio was also the clock. Good luck!
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#8
Check your owner's manual. It will tell you exactly what things are on what circuit and it'll give you a diagram of the fuse block. I highly doubt the horn is the only thing on that fuse. I pulled the above info from my owner's manual on my '93 Blazer.