Notices
2007 - 2013 (GMT900) Section for all discussion related to the 2007-2013 Chevrolet and GMC trucks.
Old July 23rd, 2015, 4:25 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:Browse all: General Overview
Print Wikipost

2008 silverado 1500 big problems.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old December 3rd, 2014, 2:24 PM
  #91  
CF Beginner
 
Dhernandez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 2008 silverado electrical problems

I'm having the exact same issues! Locks flickering, stereo shutting off, loss of power at times! Could you send me the pics? Dhernandez85@icloud.com
Thanks
Old February 11th, 2015, 10:11 PM
  #92  
CF Beginner
 
simpleman101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default can u send me the pics to jimmydelgado26@yahoo.com

Can u please send pics to jimmydelgado26@yahoo.com.
Originally Posted by Finback
I finally found the problem with my truck. The factory positive battery cable was faulted inside the crimp. The flickering door locks and other gremlins progressively got worse. Finally the truck wouldn't start and I checked the voltage at the battery (12.68 v.) I only had .4 v. at the mega fuse. The cable end read 12.68 v. also but when I checked the cable where it went into the end it read .4v. I went to Autozone and bought a new end ($3.75). I had to turn the battery around (the stock cable end is elevated to clear the caps). I had plenty of cable on both the negative and positive cable to reach. I ditched the fancy plastic sleeve on the positive cable. When I cut the old terminal apart I found the cable was overheated and couldn't be detected (without x-ray vision). I'm thinking that if you install a jumper from the battery directly to the mega fuse and your problem goes away, this might be your trouble also. Good luck to all. This is a very frustrating problem. I did take some pictures. Send me a message with your email and I'll forward the pics.
Old February 12th, 2015, 8:53 PM
  #93  
CF Beginner
 
thebman99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I had same issue in my 2008 silverado LTZ crew cab 6.0 4x4 and I changed my ground wire and it solved the issue.
Old June 4th, 2015, 6:12 PM
  #94  
CF Junior Member
 
fparkin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 55
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

my truck was parked for 2 week and battery was died I going try a new battery first I bought truck 3 months ago and drove it everyday now summer I parked and was driving car don't know how old battery is

Last edited by fparkin; June 4th, 2015 at 6:15 PM.
Old June 5th, 2015, 3:25 PM
  #95  
CF Beginner
 
mikebar4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Sounds like same issue I had.. It seems to be fixed so far (knock on wood), Its been about 6 months since it happened.
I basically started at the battery, disconnect every wire that had a connection- cleaned and greased it. I noticed that after I checked the connection below my main fuse box,,, the problem seems to be gone.
Its on an 2011 5.3 with 48k miles
Old June 24th, 2015, 11:34 PM
  #96  
CF Beginner
 
CXA2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default I have a solution to the electrical problems

I have a 2008 Chevy Tahoe and experienced similar electrical problems
described in many of the postings by but lots of frustrated people who paid good money for their Vehicle. Before purchasing my Tahoe I owned a Toyota 4Runner for 14 years virtually trouble free but there is no comparison to Chevy which looks better,performs better, and more comfortable than any foreign made vehicle.
I will always buy an American made from this point on.
I am disappointed that Chevrolet and GMC will not do the right thing and issue
a recall notice to fix this well known problem. I will explain what you (or the
Dealer) can do to fix your problem, let me explain my background first.
I'm an Electrical engineer working at a Nuclear Power Plant for over thirty years,
We have a piece of electrical test equipment that could help the dealerships,
It's called a "Manta 5000". It has its own power source. After experiencing the lose of power issue a couple times and a trip to the local Chevy dealer where I left My truck for two days without finding the problem.
I connected the Manta a and drove around normally for a couple weeks without a problem, then one day I went into town and made a twenty minute stop,then went to start my Tahoe and no power, "I jumped for joy". I downloaded the information from the test equipment and had my solution, the test equipment is designed to tell you what electrical anomaly occurred just before a loss of power.
In bold red print it identified an instantaneous spike in current when the ignition was turned off and again when I tried to start the truck. It identified the loss of power occurred at the power source, "The positive Battery Post"
I had a simple volt meter in my truck and checked voltage between the + and -
on the Battery, 12.8 volts (perfect I have a good battery.)
I then checked the voltage from the negative battery post to the line side of the mega fuse, only .3volts, problem found.
No not a bad cable, I can tell you with all my electrical troubleshooting experience, cables typically do not go bad. The problem was in fact inside the battery cable connector, a poorly made crimp on the battery cable connector. To proved this I cut the connector off and took it to work and with specialized X-Ray equipment we found the conductors inside the crimped section of the connector to be overheated and burnt. This is Typical of a poor electrical connection that slowly degrades over time.
Very easy fix, I replaced both the positive and negative battery cable connectors. I had to turn my battery around (now the battery post's face inside the engine compartment instead of facing the front fender, I did this so the existing battery cables would reach the battery terminals since I just shortened them by cutting off the connectors. Cost, $11 at a local parts store for two new battery cable connectors.

Thanks to all that participate on this forum, my friends call me, Fly Fisherman.
The following users liked this post:
CReaMdotcom (September 19th, 2022)
Old June 24th, 2015, 11:42 PM
  #97  
CF Beginner
 
CXA2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

I'm certain the electrical problems you are e peri ending is due to faulty crimped battery cable connector. Read my full thread for details. Cxa2
The following users liked this post:
CReaMdotcom (September 19th, 2022)
Old August 8th, 2015, 10:41 PM
  #98  
CF Beginner
 
Jproops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Try replacing the positive battery cable. This solved the problem for another 2008 Silverado. I am having the same issue and will try this next. Been to the dealer 4 times and they haven't solced it. Replaced battery and computer module this last time at a cost of $600
Old August 9th, 2015, 5:12 PM
  #99  
CF Beginner
 
CXA2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

If your still experiencing electrical problems similar to those posted by many of the owners
of a 2006 -- 2010 Chevy or GMC truck or SUV, I'm certain I've found the problem. See my post #96 for full set of details.
There is a fairly simple fix, replace both the positive and negative battery cable connectors.
The factory connectors have a problem with how the crimp was made back at tha factory during manufacturing.
PROBLEM: The battery cable connector is attached to the end of cable using a crimping tool, the crimping tool squeezes the connector (making a crimp,) onto the cable. This connection should be extremely tight, unfortunately that crimp is to shallow creating a loose electrical connection, overtime that connection gets worse, it heats up causing a weak mechanical & electrical connection.
Electrical connections like these are typically intermittent because there are lots of factors that affect its performance, hot and cold engine tempature, vibrations while driving, hitting a bump in the road and sometimes just ambient tempature. Driving the vehicle and then parking it and then starting it again causes metals in the engine compartment to expand and contract, and I believe the different metals used in connecting the battery cables to the battery all play a role in the problem, the cable conductor is Cooper, the cable connector itself is a lead alloy, the battery post is mostly lead, and the assembly screws are carbon steel or aluminum.
All these metals expand and contract at different rates during normal driving and stopping creating a loose connection. The weak crimp amplifies connector crimp amplifies the problem.
Replace BOTH the positive & negative battery cable connectors will sole your
problem. CXA2
The following users liked this post:
CReaMdotcom (September 19th, 2022)
Old February 19th, 2016, 6:50 PM
  #100  
CF Beginner
 
ascasci1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Will these electrical issues cause shifting problems? I am getting the same thing in my 08 Silverado and also experiencing another shifting problem.


Quick Reply: 2008 silverado 1500 big problems.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 7:40 AM.