tfletchnh91

Hey guys I have a 2011 silverado 1500 ect cab lt 4wd looking to lift it and fit 37's under the truck. Yes im going to re-gear. Yes its only a street truck. Few questions...
-I know its a personal preference but who makes the best riding lift for the new style trucks?
-I am going to re-gear can i fit 410s in the stock carrier? (Have 342s now)
-I have read that pro comp and fabtech 6" lifts actually measure as 8"?
-Does anyone have a 6" kit and running 37's? How bad do they rub?
-Any info or comments are greatly appreciated, thanks

country_09

The new trucks are lucky to fit 35s under a 6". You're gonna have to have around 10-12 inches of lift for 37s. There's a guy who ran a 7.5" rcx and 3" body lift and got by with 37s on stock 20s. But with aftermarket rims you'll run into rubbin. Get the fabtech 6" and run a levelin kit and small body lift(1.25"-1.5") and you should be fine

BIGGG11CHEVY

Its the steering geometry that kills these trucks like country said, over 35s and youll be rubbin unless they are tucked in. Im running a 7.5" rough country and a 3" body and with my 20x10 -24 offset and 35s and I still had to trim the bottom of the fender liner. So if you keep em tucked under you can go 37, but I like em to stick out and the negative offset makes a hell of alot better turning radius than I had stock. The front components of the RCX kit are actually very good quality especially for the price, its also dead nuts 7.5 inches. What I did was go with this kit, and with the money I saved I scrapped the blocks and bought 8" 2500 springs from topgunz (any 2500 leafs from 99 to 10 bolt right up) The BDS and Fabtec are great too but I dont think youll get more than 7" at best, the skyjacker is junk and factory rims wont with it. My truck rides like a caddy even with the 2500 springs and 65psi E MTZs. 4.10s will bolt in and your gonna want em I just ordered some I have 3.07s and it sucks! and also dont forget about the TPS sensors or youll have a bright orange A** on your dash like I do

tfletchnh91

Alright man the gears were the big question of if i was going with 35s or 37s. I like my tires to stick out too as i will be getting the pocket style bushwaker flairs because in nh we have laws about how far can stick out. So are you running 35s or 37s with that set up?

BIGGG11CHEVY

They are 35" ATZs and theres no room at full steer for an extra 1/2" with that offset Ive seen a truck with the same exact setup and 37s but they were on 0 degree 20x9s and didnt really stick out at all It was kinda funny lookin IMO... 3.42s might not be that bad with 35s, 3.07s are way to high for a truck to start with. Ill let you know how the 4.11s are I ordered the rear but it seems they changed the front in 2010 and I cant seem to find the new ones...

tfletchnh91

just realized you said you were running 35s. i had a 03 chevy before that i lifted. i dont understand how come your still rubbing with 35s with a 3" body. i have seen a couple with just 6" lifts fit 35s with no rubbing

BIGGG11CHEVY

The pivot point (ball joints) is so far back to begin with from the hub center not like a solid axle or even the previous body, all that rubbed is the fender liner on the drivers side in full lock but it still sucks becuase I would love to fit 39s...

tfletchnh91

have you ever tryed fitting 37s under your truck?

BIGGG11CHEVY

I havent, Im sure with just a little less offset or a 20x9 they would be fine, but Im glad I researched a little 1st or I would of ordered 39s and been screwed. The only reason I didnt get 37s is because I was hoping not to change the gears but 3.07s are just too high and my milage went from 21 to 12...

tfletchnh91

Okay so if i do the 7.5 with 20x9 - 24 offset and 3" body i should be fine with 37s? what are you running for tire width? This still seems odd to me because i have seen in other forums that people are running the 7.5 with 37s