falconbrother

I bought a clean 2000 Suburban LT 4x4 with a new engine. It snowed like crazy a couple of days after I bought it and I was super impressed with the 4x4 function. I have serviced the burb, replaced the filters including fuel and PCV valve. There is a scraping sound coming from the left rear wheel. Foolishly I thought it sounded like a bearing so, I pulled the half axle and replaced the bearing. While in there I replaced the parking brake pads. Still scraping.. It's that awful one piece brake pad. I have ordered all new everything brake for both sides in the rear. But, I read that this is a problem for everyone (eventually) that owns these otherwise great vehicles. Anyone know of a good, semi permanent fix for the parking brakes? I'm hoping when the new parts come in and I totally re-do the brakes back there it will shut up. Not to mention that all the adjustment in the world still won't make them hold the truck from rolling. I spent like 4 hours adjusting and testing till I just threw in the towel. Granted, the Rotor/drum hat is worn but, dang..

kevinkpk

I wasn't aware that that is one piece. They look like small brake shoes

tech2

when they are set up correctly they work perfectly...with hold the truck and any attached trailer.

problem is people have seized levers, cables and do not adjust them properly.

the scrape noise may be the backing plate...make sure it has clearance from the rotor.

punkieys17

Bet like me you don't use the parking brake. The one piece unit just moves out of centre and eventually just touches the drum enough to vibrate. It sounds awful. I thought for sure I had a bearing going. I took mine apart and adjusted them but first try applying the handbrake a number of times and even apply when the vehicle is moving. If you have to take them apart remember to back off the handbrake cable -it's in front of the drivers side rear wheel. That makes removing the drum easier. The shoe is adjusted with a knurled nut so the brake shoe diameter is 0.6604mm or 0.026 inch smaller than the drum. Torques needed are brake caliper bolts 42nm with locktite applied. Brake caliper mounting bolts 175nm with locktite (300nm for the 2500 series) and 190nm for the wheel lug nuts with no locktite. Try applying the brake first. I agree they are a pain to adjust.

punkieys17

Bet like me you don't use the parking brake. The one piece unit just moves out of centre and eventually just touches the drum enough to vibrate. It sounds awful. I thought for sure I had a bearing going. I took mine apart and adjusted them but first try applying the handbrake a number of times and even apply when the vehicle is moving. If you have to take them apart remember to back off the handbrake cable -it's in front of the drivers side rear wheel. That makes removing the drum easier. The shoe is adjusted with a knurled nut so the brake shoe diameter is 0.6604mm or 0.026 inch smaller than the drum. Torques needed are brake caliper bolts 42nm with locktite applied. Brake caliper mounting bolts 175nm with locktite (300nm for the 2500 series) and 190nm for the wheel lug nuts with no locktite. Try applying the brake first. I agree they are a pain to adjust.

punkieys17

Tech2 is right to advise checking the backing plates. They can be distorted by a stone or they just rust and then flap about. Check the independent stores as they sell 2 part backing plates that make the job much easier.

falconbrother

I have all new brake parts on order. Most of them arrive tomorrow. On Saturday I'm going back in there and I will look at those backing plates really close. I have a buddy with a Tahoe and he removed his backing plates all together. He believes that what I'm hearing is a backing plate. So, I need to examine them very closely. Then, install new rotors, pads and hardware on both sides. I need parking brakes. I won't use them all that much but, it will drive me crazy to have something on my truck that doesn't work. Old USAF crew chief here. I don't mind an old car but, I won't tolerate having one where something from the factory doesn't work. Everything on this burb is perfect now except the parking brakes. My next two projects after that is supplemental transmission cooling and Timbren suspension bumpers. Then, I'm going to replace the stereo.

tech2

you don't have to remove the backing plate...you want them there to keep road debris off the brake parts. they just need to be bent away from contacting the rotor.

ebrakes are a use it or lose it type of thing; especially if you live in a rust belt. use it all the time or it will seized up.

73shark

Besides preventing them from seizing up, another reason to use the parking brake is to prevent stress on the parking pawl, especially on a hill.