73shark

Welcome to the forum.

No need to remove caliper from vehicle to replace pads which means no need to bleed brakes. Just pull caliper after compressing pistons and then pull pads out of caliper bracket per the FSM.

pervitizm: Save your money and get a GM Factory Service Manual from Helm Inc.

hicksvilleshick

I've got a caliper compressor that has proved itself priceless over the years... you leave the inner pad in the caliper slap it in there and turn the **** and it compresses the piston evenly. just make sure to take the cap off the master cylinder...

should be as simple as 2 bolts, compressing the piston, putting new pads on and re-installing.

I've never sanded down rotors, this sounds like a bad idea to me cause if you sand more in one area than another, well, it obviously won't be straight no more. take them to a parts store and get them turned if your that concerned or just replace them...

:chug:

retsub

Maybe its time for some of you think in a newer way to push the caliper pistons back easy. DON'T simply just squeeze the pistons back and push the old dirty fluid back up stream into the ABS system but DO unscrew the bleeder valve slightly to let the pressure out and a small amount of fluid out when the piston moves back. This method can avoid other troubles. When done be sure to top off the master cyllinder if needed. Think about it and save yourself some trouble. Thanks. *BW*

ousig2408

where is the bleeder valve? I have always just pushed the piston back in slowly then put the new pads in...I am sure it is not the best way but what issues could be caused?
do most of you replace the fluid also when changing the pads? I have 175000 miles on my other Acura TL (original brake fluid) and everything works just fine. But I don't want to pull any short cuts when changing the pads in the Tahoe

hicksvilleshick

the bleeder valve will be on the caliper... (it'll prolly look like a grease zerk) I've never had a problem with putting the same fluid in the system back in the system, but I'm not an abs expert by any means. I've always just made sure the cap was off the master cylinder so the fluid has somewhere to go, and I forgot to mention earlier, compress the piston slowly, if'n ya go too fast you'll blow seals out.


:chug:

ousig2408

I guess leaving the cap open for a short time is ok - I mean the fluid won't absorb enough water to cause issues? I have noticed when your brakes are getting low the fluid often looks lower also because of the extra distance to push the piston and get the brakes to contact the rotor. it is a very small amount but the few times I have changed brakes each time the fluid was "low" but after I put in new pads it was right back up to the max line.

legolas894

Must be brake season. I did my '98 front brake pads and rotors on Saturday. Very easy. There was a youtube video for a 95 suburban. That has the bearing attached rotor style while mine had the separate rotor style (thank God!).

Went real easy. I did the same as most: Open MC cover, compress piston with c-clamp, take bolts out. One caliper was hard to compress but the brakes appear fine otherwise. Can you get that caliper compressor somewhere?

Just over $100 for the pads and rotors and of course, I'm priceless, so that's ok.

KRNAYL

Hi, first timer here.. can someone please post step-by-step instructions on changing brakes on a 2007 LTZ Chevy Suburban? My brakes are squeeling non-stop and so bad and I don't have the $$ to get them fixed. This is my first time working on any car.. thanks in advance!!

rrhodes1970

Although brakes are simple to replace for anyone mechanically inclined I would recommend you find a friend locally to help you. Based on your statement that this is your first time working on any car and the brake system is designed to stop your 7200lb vehicle from killing people. If you are hearing metal on metal then you are looking at more than a simple pad replacement.

KRNAYL

I have a friend who can help me and he's more familiar with cars than I am but we still need some guidance..