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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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  #1  
Old 01-30-2010, 06:54 PM
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Default Ignition/key problem. Any ideas?

Just picked up a 2007 LTZ Suburban from a used car dealer. All he had was an "aftermarket" key for it that looked like it was traced. I have to wiggle that key quit a bit to get the truck started half of the time. I figured it was a bad trace, so I ordered a new Chevy transponder key from Ebay and had a dealer cut it today using a VIN number. Still the same thing, I need to wiggle it in order for the key to turn. On top of that I couldn't program it to start the truck. I follow the standard procedure and when I put a new key in to learn the code I get "theft deterrent system" message on DIC. Is there a different way to program those? Dealer thinks it is a problem with ignition switch and he needs $105 to diagnose it. He will either have to reset some tumblers or replace the whole ignition completely. He also said there is another way to program the key using their computer. Any ideas anyone?
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:27 PM
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Default New key

Old locks don't like new keys. Take a newly cut key, sand or file down the sharp edges to smooth it out a little. Not much, just a little. It should help.
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Old 01-30-2010, 09:30 PM
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aftermarket key sounds fishy.....your probably looking at a new key cylinder, theft detterrent module and 2 new keys.
I only say that because it sounds like someone has been screwing around where they shouldn't be.
you might try a small shot of white greese(or WD-40) into the key slot and see if anything free's up
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:43 PM
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I used some graphite and WD-40, no luck. I can sand down a new key, but the fact that I can't get it to start the truck is what gets me. Every once in a while it will turn to on without wiggling, but I still get that theft detterrent module error. Should I disconnect the battery and try again?
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:47 PM
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Another thing, it is a true LTZ, but it has after market LTZ replica wheels. The only way you can tell is that the hub caps don't have Chevy logo. I am thinking the truck was stolen from a previous owner or it was a repo. That's why the dealer didn't have the original keys.
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekrasny View Post
Another thing, it is a true LTZ, but it has after market LTZ replica wheels. The only way you can tell is that the hub caps don't have Chevy logo. I am thinking the truck was stolen from a previous owner or it was a repo. That's why the dealer didn't have the original keys.
My family being in the dealer and repair business, it definitely sounds like a repo. The nicer the rig, the more chance it was repo'd. Reason being is people buy rigs they can't afford, interest and payments too high, and lose it in the first year. I see it happen all the time, and it got a lot worse when the economy tanked.

What probably happened was it was repo'd and the registered owner wouldn't give up the keys, so the dealer had a locksmith re-key it instead of replace the cylinder, and the locksmith didn't do a very good job.

I don't know when you bought it or where, but I'd definitely take it back and tell them that it's extremely unreasonable to sell a car that you can't even get the key into to start it, and that they should remedy that for you for free. This is not something that should fall on you. A reasonable expectation when you buy a car (especially a 3-year-old car) is that the key works.

Personally, I can't wait until all vehicles are activated similar to the Prius. It's 2010 - keys are ancient technology. Either RFID like the Prius, numeric password, fingerprint scan (if a laptop can do it...), voice recognition, SOMETHING other than a key.

I had an older vehicle once that the key cylinder seized up, making me late for work. I drilled it out and used a screwdriver to start it, then the next day I unplugged the wires from it and ran them to a switch for ignition and a button for start. I had an alarm on it that disabled the started and coil, so even if someone broke into it, it would be harder to figure out how to bypass the alarm than to hotwire it if it were stock. Sure wish it was as easy on my Burb. Might end up doing it to my 95 Saturn, as the cylinder in that is getting to be fickle.
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Old 01-31-2010, 12:33 PM
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If a locksmith had to re-key the truck, wouldn't that mean that my new key that the dealership cut for me yesterday using VIN wouldn't work at all? It turns, just doesn't start the truck because of theft deterrent module.

I bought it from a dealership that wouldn't take it back. It is a small time operation and they have no concept of customer service. I bought it AS-IS knowing that I will have issue that I will have to resolve. At least I only paid 26K for it, when the cheapest '07 black on black LTZ I saw for sale is close to 30K
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Old 01-31-2010, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekrasny View Post
If a locksmith had to re-key the truck, wouldn't that mean that my new key that the dealership cut for me yesterday using VIN wouldn't work at all? It turns, just doesn't start the truck because of theft deterrent module.

I bought it from a dealership that wouldn't take it back. It is a small time operation and they have no concept of customer service. I bought it AS-IS knowing that I will have issue that I will have to resolve. At least I only paid 26K for it, when the cheapest '07 black on black LTZ I saw for sale is close to 30K
It sounds like you have two separate issues.

1. The aftermarket key and the new key cut by the dealer from your VIN linked key code do not turn easily in the ignition cylinder.
2. The new key cut by the dealer from an eBay blank will not start the car even though it will turn the ignition cylinder.

Do the keys both unlock the doors? Do the keys turn smoothly in the door locks? If so, it sounds like there may be a mechanical problem with your ignition cylinder. If the keys are rough in the doors also, maybe you just have two bad keys. You may try buying a full blank from the dealer.

The second problem definitely seems to be a problem with the immobilizer or whatever GM calls the system that will not let the vehicle start without a matched key. Did the dealer program the new key to your car when they cut it? It seems that the procedure to program the new key is simple.

If none of this helps, I think ShawnVW may be right. You are looking at a full re-key and new immobilizer. Was the CarFax clean on this truck?
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Old 01-31-2010, 04:25 PM
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Carfax and autocheck were as clean as they get. The car was from CA and was sold at the auction in MI.

I just tried both keys and they lock/unlock the driver's door just fine.

The dealer just cut the key, they tried to program it by inserting it right after the good key. They are saying that they have a way to program it with a computer for an extra cost.

I think I am looking at a new ignition lock, theft deterrent system plus labor. Any idea what that would cost? Dealer said couple of hundred dollars. Last time when they said it, it was $950 total bill It is not a DIY type of job, is it?
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Old 01-31-2010, 08:16 PM
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not at all, the initial setup needs to be done with a tech2 and the internet...and if you replace the theft deterrent module, you must replace both keys. you may learn the keys a total of one time. So any keys that you have now will not be able to be learned
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Old 01-31-2010, 08:16 PM
 
 
 
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2007, aveo, car, chevrolet, chevy, cut, key, keys, problems, procedure, program, start, suburban, transponder, wiggle


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