locodave

Looking at diagrams. I see in the charging diagram listed on the link below. #22 Connection C212. In the wiring loom, zipped tyd'ed behind the engine. On the loom. A part number FW-NF-4M 11492-1105. Called up chevy dealer and their part number it 96069522. no longer listed.

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/0ycf...ternator.html#

Traces out from the IG fuse, to the alt. To that connection thru it. C212. Splits. Then goes to the alts field connection. Black wire, white stripe. Other connector had white/red going to the charge light side of the alt.

That said, internally the alt has a RFI filter mounted on the regulater.

How to check it? Inital checks. It is a 4 wire male external. The plug to it is a 2 wire plug. I ohms check the 2 connected going thru the plug to the thing. I see no ohms value. Test the other 2 males, not connected I see 2.0 oms value. What is it?

Just had the alt rebuilt today, again and don't want to fry another alt. Test showed a bad regulator and the diods were fine. Install took something out. Took it back to the rebuilder to repair and bench test showed ok. Like the 1st time I got it from him.

I installed it, on the 1st time and got 12.5 volts. Batt light was off the whole time, but. Increasing rpms, turning on inside stuff. Wipers, flashers, A/C, ect. the voltage never wen over 12.5 and dropped to 11.7. Long and short, never charged. But the batt light never came on.

I did a voltage drop test after I got it rebuilt the 1st time. By the way, had the battery tested and it's good.

Drop test, neg to alts case, neg to engine, pos terminal batt to fuse 80 amp input, fuse output, After C212 to the alt. All showed o.o2 voltage drop.

And the white /red wire to the alt on a alt connector. All showed batt volts, and using a test light. Both sides made the light glow bright. Currant thru.

I'm at a loss and what the C212 does?

locodave

Up-date. That C212 is a RFI filter. There is another one inside the alt. Ohm test it, on the 2 wires off the loom, matching the filter will show open. Ohm test the other 2 pins that are not connected will show 2.0 ohms. Internally, I think there must be a diode on why I got the results.

Do not do this!!!!. Jumper the 2 that are connected at the filter. Blows the IG fuse. Further research. Look at the diagram on S101 and S205. They feed volts to other things. They need the filter!!

Took the alt back to the re-builder. He tests. Voltage reg is shorted out. Test wire did this or not?

Takes the alt apart and see's a winding field wire is broken. Asked, that would make the reg short out. Told him, If I need to pay for something, no prob. We didn't know if a prob before or after.

He put in a new winding, he said the old windings looked fryed initally. Brittle. New reg. Bench test was good. As before.

Now it's putting out 15.5 V, charging like no tomorrow. Lifes great!!

Inital install, never put out more than 12.5 volts. Bench test bad? I did many voltage drop tests on all the wires before I installed it the 1st time.

All done, asked what I owed him. Tells me nothing as it had an issue in the 1st place. Paid for a re-build in the 1st place. $75.00

When I was waiting for him to work on mine, I helped him on an alt he was working on. 2 hrs on it, 1 hr on mine. " Can you hold this while I do that? " Goes around, comes around, eh?

Tin Can Gunner

My 2001 V6 Tracker 4x4 has gone through 4 alternators in 3 years.
When the alternator dies there is no warning light, the radio goes dead then I know I've got seconds to get off the road.
Is there a better heavier duty alternator available to replace the Mitsubishi alternator, there are only rebuilds available and frankly I haven't had any success with them.
Thanks in advance for any help
Jim-Tin Can Gunner

locodave

The place I used is Arco Automotive in Oak Lawn Illinois do a Google search maybe he can tell you what better alternator to use

Tin Can Gunner

Thanks Dave, I'll give them a try, much appreciated.