1996 Chevy C1500 WT 4.3 L Vortec V6 and 4L60E 4sp auto od tranny U joint replacement
May 18th, 2018 | 12:31 AM
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1996 Chevy C1500 WT 4.3 L Vortec V6 and 4L60E 4sp auto od tranny U joint replacement
My Son purchased a 1996 Chevy C1500 WT with 4.3 L Vortec V6 with 4L60 E four-speed overdrive automatic transmission from an individual (off C-list). The truck had 54K original miles on the odometer. This was verified by the mileage on the title and registration. We are relatively certain it needs new u-joints. I thought I would be smart and go to GM Parts direct website and obtain the part number. I entered the VIN to make certain I had the exact part numbers. There are several sites that use the same display for GM parts. When I clicked on the propeller shaft link I was taken to the same diagram as the rear end or differential. None of the three links provides a photo of the propeller shaft and u-Joints or parts listing.
The Chevy Work Truck has two universal joints and an aluminum drive (propeller) shaft. I called the local Chevy dealer and gave the parts department the VIN. He gave me one part number for the front and rear u-joint. Every site I have searched has given me two different part numbers for the front and rear u-joint. I called one vendor's toll-free help (Moog I think). He gave me two different part numbers for the front and rear based on year, make, model, engine, and tranny (I did not have the VIN when I called.) I asked him if it makes any difference because the truck has an aluminum drive shaft. He asked me to wait while he checked and he thought this is the case. He found the part number and they were the same with a letter following the part number (I should have written it down). I don't want GM parts because they lack a zerk fitting and I want to be able to grease them occasionally. I noticed a post discussing drilled u-joints with a grease fitting. Those discussing the subject raised a concern the drilled u-joint is weaker because they are hollow. He suggested a manufacturer that mounts four separate fittings on the end of each cap. Any thoughts on this? The three major items we want for the replacement universal joints are: 1) made in the USA with USA parts, 2) greaseable with zerk fitting. and 3) lifetime unlimited mileage warranty.
Additional information: So far we have replaced the alternator with a Napa rebuilt and the engine oil cooler lines. We initially purchased the oil cooler lines from NAPA. The upper line was about four inches too short. We returned cooler lines to NAPA for a refund. We ordered them from our local Chevy dealer. Now the u-joints are popping and making a high pitched noise between 40 and 50 mph. I am too damn old to hear the high pitched noise, however, my Son does hear the noise. We are both disappointed with the number of failures on this truck with the relatively low mileage for the year of manufacture. I realize the age also impacts the overall condition of all the parts. We should have realized this was the first year for the Vortec V6 and passed on the vehicle.
Thank you for your time and suggestions. This is our Son's first vehicle and I need to help him make it road worthy. I don't want the drive shaft to fail and destroy the shaft, transmission, differential and/or cause him to lose control of the truck.
Sincerely,
Brķan S. Du Bois
Evansville, IN
ps, I thought Moog would be a good choice, however, the local speed shop had some in stock and they were made in Mexico. I called Spicer and spoke with a very courteous gentleman. He could only find a u-joint for the rear and nothing for the front. He confirmed the aluminum propeller shaft requires a different type of u-joints. Supposedly the spicer u-joints are made in the USA. I attempted to contact Precision, left a voice mail message, and they have not returned my call. I hope the noise is not caused by a worn bearing or bearings in the differential.
The Chevy Work Truck has two universal joints and an aluminum drive (propeller) shaft. I called the local Chevy dealer and gave the parts department the VIN. He gave me one part number for the front and rear u-joint. Every site I have searched has given me two different part numbers for the front and rear u-joint. I called one vendor's toll-free help (Moog I think). He gave me two different part numbers for the front and rear based on year, make, model, engine, and tranny (I did not have the VIN when I called.) I asked him if it makes any difference because the truck has an aluminum drive shaft. He asked me to wait while he checked and he thought this is the case. He found the part number and they were the same with a letter following the part number (I should have written it down). I don't want GM parts because they lack a zerk fitting and I want to be able to grease them occasionally. I noticed a post discussing drilled u-joints with a grease fitting. Those discussing the subject raised a concern the drilled u-joint is weaker because they are hollow. He suggested a manufacturer that mounts four separate fittings on the end of each cap. Any thoughts on this? The three major items we want for the replacement universal joints are: 1) made in the USA with USA parts, 2) greaseable with zerk fitting. and 3) lifetime unlimited mileage warranty.
Additional information: So far we have replaced the alternator with a Napa rebuilt and the engine oil cooler lines. We initially purchased the oil cooler lines from NAPA. The upper line was about four inches too short. We returned cooler lines to NAPA for a refund. We ordered them from our local Chevy dealer. Now the u-joints are popping and making a high pitched noise between 40 and 50 mph. I am too damn old to hear the high pitched noise, however, my Son does hear the noise. We are both disappointed with the number of failures on this truck with the relatively low mileage for the year of manufacture. I realize the age also impacts the overall condition of all the parts. We should have realized this was the first year for the Vortec V6 and passed on the vehicle.
Thank you for your time and suggestions. This is our Son's first vehicle and I need to help him make it road worthy. I don't want the drive shaft to fail and destroy the shaft, transmission, differential and/or cause him to lose control of the truck.
Sincerely,
Brķan S. Du Bois
Evansville, IN
ps, I thought Moog would be a good choice, however, the local speed shop had some in stock and they were made in Mexico. I called Spicer and spoke with a very courteous gentleman. He could only find a u-joint for the rear and nothing for the front. He confirmed the aluminum propeller shaft requires a different type of u-joints. Supposedly the spicer u-joints are made in the USA. I attempted to contact Precision, left a voice mail message, and they have not returned my call. I hope the noise is not caused by a worn bearing or bearings in the differential.
