exflatfoot

Both driver and passenger door locks are hard to turn with the key from the outside. The power lock button also needs to be pushed several times to open the door lock from the inside because it only moves a little at a time until the lock is unlocked. I was thinking maybe a bent rod connected to the inside door mechanism but not likely both sides at once would have the issue... Any suggestions.

Gumby22

There’s several possibilities on a truck that’s 20 years old.

I’m listing these starting with the easiest solutions first but keep in mind your truck could have one or more of these occurring.

Please be cautious and wear appropriate safety gear as needed.

1) Dirt accumulation inside the door latch assembly, causing it to drag/bind.

Blast compressed air into the latch and follow it up with WD40/PB Blaster or equivalent. Apply lubricant liberally then open and close the door several times to work it into the latch, then blast with compressed air again. If the lock loosens up and starts moving more freely, repeat the lube/air routine at least once more for each door. After a few days to a week (time for the excess lube to drip off the latch), apply white lithium grease to the latch and open/close the door again to work the grease into the latch.

Repeat as needed - the residual WD40/PB Blaster tends to remove the initial application of grease, so you may need to apply more over a few days time. You’ll know if it needs to be reapplied by listening for squeaking/creaking noises from the lock/latch.

2) Door key cylinders are dragging/seizing up from lack of use - very common problem if you have remote keyless entry.

Get some lock de-icer and go through the same routine as the latches - apply the de-icer, then compressed air, and repeat. Using a pick or small screwdriver to hold open the lock cover while blasting it with air may be necessary.

The de-icer and air will flush out dirt/grime accumulation.

Follow it up with graphite lube and use the key to actuate the lock several times. You can apply the graphite directly into the lock, but I’ve found it’s more effective to apply it to the key shank. Depending on how bad it is you may need to do both.

3) The door hinges are worn out and putting excess stress on the latch assembly.

Open the door and attempt to move it up and down - you’ll feel and/or see movement in the hinges if this is the case. Repair kits are available if it’s just the pins and bushings.

4) The lock actuators and/or linkages are worn out - this would need to be confirmed visually by removing the door trim panel.

FYI - if you’re not aware, white lithium grease and graphite are available as aerosols at just about any auto parts or hardware store.

exflatfoot

I appreciate the info. I did replace the hinge pins last moth so I can rule that out. I'm hoping I can spray some cleaner and lubricant in the mechanism and that will work. I cannot find a rod kit for the inside door lock, i'm hoping the rods rent bent.

ebxgsxr

i just picked up my truck and was having a similar problem. now my situation was a little different b/c my key cylinder is missing from the driver's door, lol. when i used the power door lock switch, sometimes the passenger side wouldn't even lock at all. i took off the door panels and wiped away any gunk from the old lubricant that was on the rod. then i just soaked the rods and the piece that the rod goes through with a new lubricant. night and day difference. everything works as it should with the door lock switch. i'm going to try lubricating the lock cylinder to see if that helps when i use the key. but since i'm getting a remote starter with door locks put on tomorrow, i doubt i will really need to rush to do that.