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1988 - 1998 (GMT400) Section for all discussion related to the 1987-1998 Chevrolet and GMC trucks.

If you want it done right do it yourself

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Old August 28th, 2019, 10:06 AM
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Default If you want it done right do it yourself

I am in the process of basically restoring my 98 Chevy. For years I have had mechanics who would fix the absolute basic they had after I ask them to do a complete check up top to bottom front to back. I would get an oil change and repair of was broken at that moment. Even had a worn out ball joint break leaving a friend's house about a month after it was in the shop. Last issue I was having was timming I believe, It was having trouble starting. Long story short, it has been sitting for almost 3 years and now I am trying to replace most all of the basic parts and determine any other issues. I have the upper intake off to replace the injector and I am going to replace the distributor cap. My question is, should I replace the distributor cap first or injector and get the manifold back on? Had someone helping me that said manifold first but seems easier to replace distributor cap so you have more room.
Old August 28th, 2019, 1:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 98 Chevy My ride or die
I am in the process of basically restoring my 98 Chevy. For years I have had mechanics who would fix the absolute basic they had after I ask them to do a complete check up top to bottom front to back. I would get an oil change and repair of was broken at that moment. Even had a worn out ball joint break leaving a friend's house about a month after it was in the shop. Last issue I was having was timming I believe, It was having trouble starting. Long story short, it has been sitting for almost 3 years and now I am trying to replace most all of the basic parts and determine any other issues. I have the upper intake off to replace the injector and I am going to replace the distributor cap. My question is, should I replace the distributor cap first or injector and get the manifold back on? Had someone helping me that said manifold first but seems easier to replace distributor cap so you have more room.
Got a 1998 K-1500 myself. I would change ALL the injectors if I were you since, if you you have one bad one the rest are likely not in very good shape. Install with Fel-Pro manifold gaskets and torque to specs (33 foot-pounds). The distributor cap and the rotor should both be changed at the same time. Its only two screws holding the cap on and the rotor just pushes on. Might want to see if your sparks plugs are okay too, unless they have been changed out before all of this. I use Iridium plugs myself.

Need to grease those ball-joints for sure. Its kinda funny but my mother had a 1946 (they stopped making most cars during world war II) Chevy Fleetline Deluxe,when my father was dating my mother, and the SOB's that changed her oil didn't bother to grease any of the the zerk fittings on her car back then, so they were all worn-out to ****,

Back then most roads, before I was born, were dirt roads, maybe some gravel, not paved much at that time, so cars took a real beating, with all the dust, mud and water.

My dad, who was a WW II combat veteran, went in there and _MADE_ them change all the worn-out ball-joints, steering joints and U-joints or else there was gonna be all
hell to pay and he wasn't screwing around about it at all.

They did, and it didn't cost them a dime, as my father was not a man to be pushed around, and back in those days, as veterans of that awful war, they were taken seriously for good reasons, as you might imagine,
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