1999 Chevy suburban swap (NEED HELP)
#1
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Hey everyone new here,
First off to make this long story longer Picked up this 99 suburban the motor was going to be pulled from it and put into another truck everything ran great
However all the wiring was going to be transplanted as well with the motor so as the wiring was getting remove from the dash
I guess one of my helpers decided to speed the process up and just clip all the wires on the passenger side harness right in front of the glove box
(THE MOTOR IS STILL IN THE SAME VEHICLE WASN'T PULLED YET)
Now the truck will start and run for a few seconds then shut off like it has a VATS issue. Since then Vats has been reset so thats in the clear also tested for the MAF it’s good.
I’m curious what all could be causing it not to stay running from the passenger side wiring? Or is it something eles Any help is appreciated
First off to make this long story longer Picked up this 99 suburban the motor was going to be pulled from it and put into another truck everything ran great
However all the wiring was going to be transplanted as well with the motor so as the wiring was getting remove from the dash
I guess one of my helpers decided to speed the process up and just clip all the wires on the passenger side harness right in front of the glove box
(THE MOTOR IS STILL IN THE SAME VEHICLE WASN'T PULLED YET)
Now the truck will start and run for a few seconds then shut off like it has a VATS issue. Since then Vats has been reset so thats in the clear also tested for the MAF it’s good.
I’m curious what all could be causing it not to stay running from the passenger side wiring? Or is it something eles Any help is appreciated
Last edited by wwells48; May 16th, 2020 at 7:27 PM.
#2
CF Veteran
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Don’t assume the wiring is at fault - there’s a lot of possibilities with engine swaps.
Start with the basics -
1) Check for DTC’s
2) Try spraying starter fluid or carb cleaner in the intake - will it stay running? Yes = fuel delivery problem. No = spark or air delivery problem.
Start with the basics -
1) Check for DTC’s
2) Try spraying starter fluid or carb cleaner in the intake - will it stay running? Yes = fuel delivery problem. No = spark or air delivery problem.
#3
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I understand checking the basics and I will try that just to eliminate anything. But first and foremost I want to be clear the truck ran Perfect nothing was wrong.
We literally had it running 5 minutes before the teardown so it would be extremely odd to not assume it was the wiring since that’s the only thing that got changed. Truck was turn key running before the dash removal started after removal of dash it would run then shut off.
We literally had it running 5 minutes before the teardown so it would be extremely odd to not assume it was the wiring since that’s the only thing that got changed. Truck was turn key running before the dash removal started after removal of dash it would run then shut off.
#4
CF Veteran
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And chances are that the wiring is the problem, but if you skip the basics, you can spend hours chasing what you assume is the problem when that’s not it. Sometimes things like this happen coincidentally.
Also, starting with the basics can narrow down what about the wiring could be the problem because it can rule out large portions of the circuitry.
Also, starting with the basics can narrow down what about the wiring could be the problem because it can rule out large portions of the circuitry.
#5
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Absolutely I agree with what your saying. I’ll have to get in there some time today or tomorrow and see what I can find out.
On a side note of the wiring, do you know of anything that would cause an issue like this from the passenger side being cut? It does all look mostly airbag/ ac related.
just thinking I wonder if it was connected to a ground that is causing an issue now?
On a side note of the wiring, do you know of anything that would cause an issue like this from the passenger side being cut? It does all look mostly airbag/ ac related.
just thinking I wonder if it was connected to a ground that is causing an issue now?
#6
CF Veteran
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Not specifically. I’d have to look up the particulars to know for sure, but I’m pretty sure there’s a junction block on the right side that has several circuits running through it related to data between the BCM and PCM.
It would probably be worthwhile if you could track down a pro level scan tool (like a Bosch tech 2) - that would allow you to scan the PCM, BCM, security and so on.
It would probably be worthwhile if you could track down a pro level scan tool (like a Bosch tech 2) - that would allow you to scan the PCM, BCM, security and so on.
#7
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I may just go ahead and do that aswell, I possibly might take a trip to the junk yard and just pull a complete harness and just swap it or atleast use it to see where we went wrong. Appreciate your help so far I’ll keep you posted
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