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Best radiator swap?

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Old July 21st, 2020, 5:25 PM
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Default Best radiator swap?

I have a 2002 1500 with the 4.8 and I'm looking for a heavy duty radiator that will be a drop-in swap for the factory single core radiator. I'm pulling a trailer and need more cooling. Any recommendations?
Old July 21st, 2020, 6:34 PM
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the automatic transmission will get all the heat. the engine cooling system will be fine. Install a trans cooler in a loop after the trans line exits the rad.
Old July 21st, 2020, 8:12 PM
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I replaced the fan clutch with a hd unit and changed the thermostat to 160 degrees and that helped quite a bit. It's acting like the radiator just can't cope even with the improvements I've made. I'm pretty sure the only trans cooler is the one inside the factory radiator, so I guess it's possible it may be cooking the radiator. Do you really think an external trans cooler will make a bigger difference than an aftermarket two row aluminum radiator?
Old July 21st, 2020, 11:46 PM
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the vehicle should run at 90 to 100 degrees Celsius. if the current rad has poor flow due to crud build up...by all means replace it. the standard size clean flowing rad is more than capable of cooling the truck if you are towing within its limits. if you are over limit get a bigger truck made to handle the load.

for the truck to cool proper all fan shrouds must be in place.
a better rad is fine...if it keeps the truck running cold; the thermostat will just close until its back to normal operating temp.

regarding a colder thermostat....you don't want any vehicle to run to cold...its creates sludge and poor fuel economy.
what i am saying, if your truck is running hot due to a problem...find the source and fix it...just make sure the cause of the overheat isn't from overloading the truck beyond its limits.

Last edited by tech2; July 21st, 2020 at 11:49 PM.
Old July 22nd, 2020, 1:38 PM
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I have a 2002 2500 (not-HD). Had cooling problems after buying a 10,000 lb 5th wheel. Truck is rated to tow 10,500 lbs and the max trailer weight is 10,300 lbs.

Prior to this trailer, the most I ever towed was ~7000 lbs, and never had any issues.But with this 5th wheel, trans temp was ok, but I had engine coolant overheating (always accompanied by loosing coolant).

I went with this radiator
:1988 - 1998 Chevy Truck Aluminum Radiator

I also added a Derale transmission cooler from etrailer. My 2500 actually did have a (puny) transmission cooler. I kept it and added the DeRale in series.
https://www.etrailer.com/Transmissio...eID=2002747627

The radiator above does include a transmission cooler.

But if I had to do it all over again, I think I would have picked this radiator:
https://www.on3performance.com/shop/...iator-upgrade/

(Note that one does NOT include a trans cooler.)

And I would have replaced the factory trans cooler with this:
https://www.trucool.com/products/tru-cool-max

When I did my install, I was not aware of the Tru-Cool max trans cooler. My theory is with transmission cooling happening in the radiator, it is forcing the radiator to work harder (cooling both transmission fluid and engine coolant). It seems to me that separating those two functions makes more sense.. With the size of the large TruMAx cooler, I am confident it can handle the cooling without the need for a factory cooler.

I installed the radiator and trans cooler myself. The 1st time I tried to tow the 5th wheel, it overheated again. But lost coolant first. Unloaded I never had an overheating problem. But after driving the truck later unloaded, I noticed a slow coolant drip. This time I took it to a trusted mechanic, who told me that he found a couple hose clamps that "weren't quite tight enough".

Things seem better now.



Old July 22nd, 2020, 3:00 PM
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Any idea why you were still having cooling issues after all of the mods? Did you do anything with the fan? It doesn't seem like a little leak would cause cooling issues unless the total coolant volume was too low.
Old July 22nd, 2020, 4:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Balok1701
Any idea why you were still having cooling issues after all of the mods? Did you do anything with the fan? It doesn't seem like a little leak would cause cooling issues unless the total coolant volume was too low.
I really think it was due to the incompetency of the mechanic who did the mods (i.e. me). The leak was small when the truck was unloaded (or even moderately loaded). But with the heavy trailer, temps rose a little more; and the leak was no longer small. I had a real professional look at it and he found a couple hose clamps that he said were "a little too loose".

Those two clamps did not seem to be a problem when the truck was lightly worked, but put a big load on it and bad things happened.

It works better now..
Old August 24th, 2023, 11:32 PM
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Hello. Praying that I'm in the correct thread.
Recently bought a 2005 Silverado 1500 LS 4DR Extended Cab 4.8L V8 F RWD 310K miles.
Found out the past day that I need a radiator. The previous owner had epoxy stored under the hood. Trying to figure the best radiator and what else is needed (besides hoses) that should automatically be swapped out, please?
One Chevy dealer doesn't even have a photo of a radiator, if they have one at all. O'Reilly's has 8 different radiators, with Murray Heat Transfer #432298 seeming to be the best. It says that no cap is needed (I'm too old for this).
I'm not a truck person, though I did have one yrs ago for work. This is needed b/c of where I've relocated. Not meant to be an everyday drivable truck.Only when necessary.
Old August 25th, 2023, 8:14 PM
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I would go to rockauto.com and look at the radiators that are available. Yes, there are many, but to narrow it down to a manageable few I would look at the ones from Spectra Premium, TYC, or Denso. I choose these 3 brands based on what I have read on other forums regarding replacement radiators. These seem to be the "best" choices when it comes to price, fit, and part quality.

Also, there is no radiator cap for these radiators. The coolant expansion tank is pressurized and it is where the coolant is added to the system.

Be sure to look at the engine block where the water pump meets. The factory gaskets have been known to develop leaks as they age. Also, make sure there is no play in the water pump shaft. Grab hold of the pulley and see if there is any play. Also, turn the pulley with your hand to feel if there is any roughness when you turn it. If there is, the bearing is going bad and the pump needs to be replaced.

If you change antifreeze, be sure an use distilled water to dilute the new antifreeze.

Good Luck!

Good Luck!
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Old August 26th, 2023, 2:50 PM
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Give Thanks "chem_man"! Bless Yourself!
I was looking at radiators on ebay (I called the dealer and was given the part #). On rockauto.com earlier, and Denso was truly on my mind because I used their plugs before for an older Camry. I will definitely keep the first 2 choices in mind. Today someone is supposed to come to let me know whether/not I need one with an engine oil cooler.
The rest of the information and teachings are truly appreciated, especially the diluting with "distilled water". I definitely needed all of this!

Please take care of yourself.


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