silverado 1500 2001

Any questions? I just finished.

It's a $1,000 - $2,000 job depending on the shop and fees in your area and such.

Mine failed while parked at a store - felt soft looked under truck had a leak. The lines will always look rusty. Smooth rust, knock on wood, is ok. If the rust begins to inflate (instead of smooth you see and area that is expanded, you can feel "bumps") then your likely very near a failure. You'll save a tow and maybe your life if you go ahead and do it. WARNING: do not wait for an inspector to tell you - they don't know chevy, they don't know these days.

I was told "don't buy the kit you have to lift the cab and the bed". Lifting the bed is easy but I know lifting the cab can be hard (how far). I can't confirm lifting the cab but bed is true. But I didn't like putting a softer "bend easy" line pinched between the heavy gas tank - rail - and sliding bed. So my personal was to route on other side of tank - protecting it with a jacket (tube) where cab and bed have that gap (where something might fall on it). I didn't want to do all the work to have lines that would "rust out again". Roads are salted where i am.

I was told by my master "never ever use a cheap chinese flare tool. i mean it - never". So I got a snap-on bluepoint off ebay. Advice: fully close the screws (big wing nuts) on the line. It will not damage the line or tool and is essential to success: tight even no slip isn't good enough - work it until it's closed with a wooden dowel/pry. Then just use firm screwing/twisting until it stops (is seated": do not twist hard - not needed or wanted - hard will actually warp it to one side. That was a hang-up for me until I "figured it out". 5' of spiral steel protector was enough (ebay cheaps out you get 5' in kit not 8'): but you can stretch it a little and it spans fully.

I replaced ALL HOSES. They are well known for closing up despite the jacket looking good - making you think your caliper is bad. But they can damage caliper too.

Bending was really easy all by hand - mostly as you go. I only matched the curve of two things: the S bend right at the master cylinder and the rear lines (the two 3/16" ones on the axel - though i likely didn't have to match the bend i did so because the sprint coil protector went on it). I suggest: for front 4 lines leave 1' - 2' more than you measure (2' was a little much, extra S in there). For rear line it depends if you take the detour or not. But 1' - 2' extra again is wise (start with 2' if you don't know). If you take the detour do bother to measure it and add to your measure after.

For bleeding (filling / flushing completely dry system) I used a hand pump (up to 25 psi dry pump). I got a 20' hose that attaches directly to bleed screw (chemical resistant hose - cheap). Because it's so long - no bottle needed. A substitute sucker is a venturi sprayer (requires shop air). 15 psi but "works good enough". Do rear first (due to ABS). For front you have to pump brake while applying suction. Onces that's all done - you may want an assistant to do a "touch up" bleeding (again, just a long hose is all is needed).

It took 32 oz (1 qt) plus only a little (don't get two big bottles). You'll pour almost the whole 32 in the master bottle which holds say 30oz and say - wow is this enough i haven't bleed it yet? yep: be sure it is.

I got a flare wrench and then remembered: dang these aren't fuel nuts these are steel nuts. A good snapon open end wrench is fine.

I got 50 ft of 1/4" easy bend line. however: you might want to get only 30 ft and run a steel pre-made line from ABS to rear (must lift the bed up do it that way). that's up to you. my personal is not to run copper in a tight space where stuff that falls between cab and bed can crush it, is all (also note: the oem part has allot of specific bens - you may not be able to find a match - dont' bet too heavily they send you one with correct bends: the very particular bends are needed or the steel line would be crushed on the road). 25' of 3/16" line is obvious (about 10' needed), also the rear axel line would be the easist to buy pre-made (if you can find it and it's really bent correctly).

WARNING: there are 3 size flare nuts. for 3 of the lines you have to mix 2 different kind on the line before you flare (you can tell that bit me - but I had slack so i was ok). as usual do NOT trust the auto parts store - they'll hand you the wrong nuts i guarantee it. first thing you do is get any nuts you wish to replace (extra rusty?) and insure they fit. first thing.

Do not overtighten as or brake lines (and always insure line seats right in the 45 before tightening). BUT NOTE: i made them snug and next morning they were all loose (just like tightening head bolts!). So count on letting them sit over night and re-tightening them because they do "bend into shape" and loosen over-night.

Finally: if you re-route or not you'll need maybe a few custom brackets: these will have to be undone if you have to SLIDE the bed off. keep that in mind: the bed has to be easily removed without damaging hose. The hose can't dangle where vibration would cause it to brake (potholes can add significant jolt/shock to everything on the truck).

NOTE: if your wondering "will my lines fail"? Yes. It's a well known issue for older chevy trucks. How to check the lines was mentioned above. Count on it.