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no power passeneger door

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Old March 14th, 2016, 5:43 PM
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Default no power passeneger door

2003 2500 HD LS 4X4 with 6.0 gas
Hoping for expert because I have lots of info here. No power at all to front passenger door.. no power locks/windows/mirrors. Everything works on the other three doors EXCEPT the window lockout on the driver door is inactive and the electric mirrors dont work at all on either door.

I have troubleshot the heck out of it. No blown fuses in under hood fuse bus or the left driver instrument panel fuse buss. I discovered that the driver door button module and the passenger door button module both have two orange wires each that are supposed to be hot with key on. On the driver side, they are both hot. But on the passenger side, only one is hot. The one that is cold (no power) is pin #14 on the 28-pin connector (same pin on the drivers side btw). So traced this wire just a short distance to the right side electrical bus and there is continuity through that bus until the wire disappears into the dash board assembly. I cannot find the other end of that wire or any fuse that powers it.

I did find the relay panel that is just under the steering wheel and just above the drivers feet, and that panel does have a circuit breaker that powers the OTHER orange wire.... the one that was already hot to begin with. So.... I have had no success finding the other end of the dead orange wire. I have been touching every orange wire I could find and testing for continuity but no luck. I am fair convinced that if I power up this wire, my problems will go away because I think the passenger door module needs power to do everything it does.....1. control passenger door lock....control passenger window.....complete connection to mirrors, allowing driver to directly control the passenger side mirror, and send performance signals back to the auto computer.

The wiring diagrams I have been able to find define all the wires and pins, but dont seem to tell be exactly how certain wires are routed from the doors back to the source so unless I hit on a wire with continuity, i have no idea what wire to repair. But since it is unlikely to be a frayed or broken wire, it would be nice to know specifically where this particular wire is supposed to get its power.
Old March 14th, 2016, 6:45 PM
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adding to my own post....I am thinking that the subject power is a low amperage source strictly to power the circuit board. the other wire (the one already hot) is far thicker gauge. So it is possible that the wire I am investigating is not to be found on the power window schematic or the power door lock or the power mirror schematics. I will likely find it on a schematic of the on board computer or diagnostics system.... so I have been looking at the wrong schematics.

even if I find it on a schematic, the schematic will not tell me how it is routed and may not even tell me which fuse bus or electrical center it terminates at. If this wire is damaged somewhere enroute to the terminal end, I may never find it. I need proof positive of which wire it is at the source, then I can route a new wire if I so desire.

help!! i need someone who already knows precisely which wire this is and where it goes.
Old March 16th, 2016, 6:38 PM
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well I solved my own problem and became an expert at reading electrical diagrams a the same time. I traced the wire and eventually came to a blown fuse. The fuse was hidden from view. I had to take it on faith that it was there based upon the diagram. So I kept looking until I found it.
Old August 1st, 2016, 1:00 PM
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Originally Posted by schneidm
well I solved my own problem and became an expert at reading electrical diagrams a the same time. I traced the wire and eventually came to a blown fuse. The fuse was hidden from view. I had to take it on faith that it was there based upon the diagram. So I kept looking until I found it.
Hello, I am curious if you could please tell me where to find the fuse responsible for this issue. My Passenger door is also malfunctioning. It has been dead for months now and not an issue since the window has been up. BUT now, inexplicably, yesterday it rolled down all by itself and is now dead again. Would love to know what might fix this. Thanks in advance!
Old August 22nd, 2016, 7:11 PM
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ok. I sold this truck a few months ago. However, I vaguely remember the situation. There was fuse obscured from view and I didnt see it until i changed my viewing angle at the fuse board. But I cant remember where it was. Remind me where are the fuses in the truck? I remember some under the hood next to the battery...fuses and relays. Then I remember one under the dash above the drivers feet.

Was there another one on the end of the dash between the driver door and the dash? Such that you have to open the driver door to see it?
Old August 22nd, 2016, 7:17 PM
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I can tell you more about what I discovered. The same power source that eventually powers the passenger door also powers the seats. and when my door stopped working, so did my seats. But when I traced this power source, I discovered it goes to the fuse block under the dash and above the feet.... the one with a large black cover over it. On that box I discovered two circuit breakers.... one for the seats and one for the windows. So I had to discovered which one was causing the fuse the blow. So I unplugged the seats CB for a few days and then the windows CB for a few days.

I really do not remember if I ever discovered which one was causing the fuse to blow.

What I need to do is look back at my notes because I think I wrote down the fuse on my diagrams.
Old August 22nd, 2016, 7:28 PM
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Default Fuse panels


Starting at the driver door, yes there is a panel at the end of the dash. You have to open the door to access it. You pull a plastic panel and there are a few replacement fuses mounted to the inside of that panel.

Also, there is a White fuse/relay block way down underneath the dash, about where the E-Brake pedal ends up when fully depressed. Higher than the floorboard, almost in the inside of the wheels elk. Typically there is a black Plastic cover with a hole in it that attaches to a single threaded stud that protrudes from that white block. Then there are the blocks under the hood.

Hoping that helps rebuild your frame of reference from the past.




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