Looking at a 2012 2500hd wt, what are the cons?
December 20th, 2020, 6:27 PM
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Looking at a 2012 2500hd wt, what are the cons?
I'm looking at a 2012 chevrolet 2500hd wt 4wd 6.0l with 56k on it in great shape. What is the difference between a wt and the others? It would be a daily/ weekend tower for a 20ft car hauler with the family. I've never made a purchase like this so I'd like to do my research before spending the money and not being happy.... all help is appreciated!
December 29th, 2020, 11:00 PM
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If you’re still needing info on this...
The primary difference between a WT and other trucks is they’re usually more basic - there’s less “creature comforts” so to speak. It’s not always the case but they tend to have manual controls for windows, locks, seats and transfer case; and a basic radio and HVAC setup. They’re often not equipped with cruise control either (not that you’d be using that for towing anyhow).
However, if it doesn’t already have a hitch and plug, it should have a blunt cut harness ready for a trailer plug to be hooked up. Hitches (bumper or 5th wheel) are available from Curt Mfg. and are reasonably quick and easy to install.
The weakest points on these trucks (the 2500HD, not specifically WT) is the steering linkage and suspension. Even with only 56k the front end should be thoroughly inspected to make sure there’s no play in the linkage or ball joints. At a shop, the cost to rebuild the front end can be upwards of $2500 for complete replacement of everything and alignment.
There was also an updated valve cover due to PCV system problems for the left bank, but I can’t recall what year that changed so it wouldn’t hurt to verify if it has that.
Inspect lines for the power steering, engine oil cooler and transmission cooler - the crimps where the lines transition from metal to rubber are weak and don’t usually last beyond 70 or 80 thousand.
The last thing I can think of is the brake lines along the driver side frame rail. From the master cylinder, the lines run along the frame to the ABS module, then 2 lines run back to the front wheels and one line runs to the rear. They are all prone to rusting out along the frame, especially in states that use salt on the roads during winter. If any of them are questionable, you’re better off replacing them all at once.
The primary difference between a WT and other trucks is they’re usually more basic - there’s less “creature comforts” so to speak. It’s not always the case but they tend to have manual controls for windows, locks, seats and transfer case; and a basic radio and HVAC setup. They’re often not equipped with cruise control either (not that you’d be using that for towing anyhow).
However, if it doesn’t already have a hitch and plug, it should have a blunt cut harness ready for a trailer plug to be hooked up. Hitches (bumper or 5th wheel) are available from Curt Mfg. and are reasonably quick and easy to install.
The weakest points on these trucks (the 2500HD, not specifically WT) is the steering linkage and suspension. Even with only 56k the front end should be thoroughly inspected to make sure there’s no play in the linkage or ball joints. At a shop, the cost to rebuild the front end can be upwards of $2500 for complete replacement of everything and alignment.
There was also an updated valve cover due to PCV system problems for the left bank, but I can’t recall what year that changed so it wouldn’t hurt to verify if it has that.
Inspect lines for the power steering, engine oil cooler and transmission cooler - the crimps where the lines transition from metal to rubber are weak and don’t usually last beyond 70 or 80 thousand.
The last thing I can think of is the brake lines along the driver side frame rail. From the master cylinder, the lines run along the frame to the ABS module, then 2 lines run back to the front wheels and one line runs to the rear. They are all prone to rusting out along the frame, especially in states that use salt on the roads during winter. If any of them are questionable, you’re better off replacing them all at once.
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